By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Dramatically located next to the busy runways of the DeKalb Peachtree Airport, the 57th Fighter Group Restaurant opened in 1985 and quickly became one of Atlanta’s quirkiest fine dining destinations. After closing for a few years, it recently underwent a round of renovations and reopened in October.

World War II vintage

Turning onto the long, tree-lined driveway from Clairmont Road, there’s the fleeting impression that you could be approaching a farmhouse in the French countryside. But WWII vintage army vehicles, weaponry and aircraft signal a different retro theme, as does the stucco building, with its tile roof, mullioned windows and bombed-out chimney.

Inside, the sprawling space is divided into a series of dining rooms, most with fireplaces. WWII photos and memorabilia document the 1940s heyday of the 57th Fighter Group in Europe. Tables look out on the airfield, giving diners close-up views of private jets taking off and landing. A wall of banquettes built into private nooks offer a cozy romantic getaway for two. A party room features a bar and sunken dance floor, and beyond, there’s a spacious terrace with a fire pit and an outdoor bar.

Hearty American

The decor may be French, but the menu is hearty American with Southern accents. At dinner, steaks, seafood, roasted chicken and braised short ribs are served in hefty portions with a starch and vegetables. Longtime fans may fondly recall the signature beer and cheese soup, a rich, bright yellow concoction, now prepared with Sweetwater 420 and topped with crumbled bacon. Georgia shrimp cocktail, zucchini fritters and lobster rigatoni squares are among the other starters.

At lunch, sandwiches include a grilled portobello wrap, blackened grouper on a toasted ciabatta roll and a classic Reuben on marble rye. Black and blue salad is a spicy/tangy melange of baby spinach topped with blackened sirloin tips, roasted tomatoes, blue cheese crumbles and crispy onion rings.

During a weekday visit, another 57th staple, Winston’s Chicken ($10.95 at lunch/ $15.95 at dinner), proved to be as full-bodied as its namesake. A simple pounded and grilled chicken breast is transformed into heaping corpulence by the addition of a stack of thinly sliced deli ham, apple wood-smoked bacon and melted cheddar cheese. The vegetable of the day, lightly sautéed zucchini, yellow squash and onions, made for a crunchy and delicious contrast.

Special occasion kitsch

Service is attentive to the edge of formal, but very friendly. Of course, this is the kind of place that easily accommodates special occasions and private parties. Aviation buffs, WWII vets, kids and aficionados of kitsch will all have fun. And on Sundays there’s an old-school champagne brunch buffet ($24.95), with carved steamship round and omelet and waffle stations, among other offerings.

Dining out

The 57th Fighter Group Restaurant, 3829 Clairmont Road,
770-234-0057

Signature dish: Beer and cheese soup

Entree prices: Lunch: $8.95-10.95; Dinner: 14.95-$29.95

Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5 -10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. Lounge and patio menu available daily at noon.

Reservations: Yes (and for private parties)

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.the57threstaurant.com

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