By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Since it opened in 2005, Duck’s Cosmic Kitchen has always been a bit of an odd bird. Writing about the Decatur bakery/bistro in early 2006, AJC dining critic Meridith Ford Goldman called it “a little quackers.” But as her review made clear, that comment wasn’t meant to be negative so much as descriptive of the cheerfully off-kilter scene.

A few years on, Duck’s has added table service in the “satellite room,” perched catty-cornered across the courtyard from the small building that houses the kitchen. Still, the air of controlled chaos continues, as servers tag-team, waiting tables and shuttling orders back-and-forth.

At the station

Located in the back and up the stairs in East Decatur Station, the dining area is decorated in bright “Have A Nice Day” colors, with big paintings, and an assortment of tables and chairs. A small bar now features Bardorf & Bronson coffee and espresso drinks, organic sodas and wine. And the surprisingly good craft beer list lately has included Dogfish Head Punkin’ Ale, Highland Oatmeal Porter and Saison Du Pont.

Bistro menu

Pretty much everything on the menu is homemade, from the freshly baked bagels and country wheat, olive and walnut leek breads to the mayo. Owner Ann Duckworth also works hard to showcase local farmers and artisan food producers. All that comes together in sandwiches, soups, salads and daily specials that are big on comfort.

House-cured salmon, pot roast with horseradish sauce, roasted pork and a made-from-scratch veggie burger are among the sandwich favorites. Fresh dough individual pizzas include the panzanella, basically an Italian-style salad on a pie, with arugula, tomato, mozzarella, Parmesan, roasted chicken and vinaigrette dressing.

Saturday specials

Saturday is certainly the most special day at Duck’s. That’s the only time Duckworth’s warm and gooey cinnamon rolls are available. And from 10 a.m.- 2 p.m., the kitchen does some of its best work, turning out a variety of brunch dishes. Recently, a fluffy cheddar and tomato omelet, made with local eggs, came plated with savory roasted potatoes. A hearty bacon, egg and cheese sandwich; a Mexican-style breakfast pizza with fresh salsa, a pastry basket and homemade granola are among the other offerings.

Ducky treats

Seasonal fruit pies and tarts are always a good bet for dessert. Buttery baked donuts resemble crumbly coffee cake. And there’s always chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, snickerdoodles and peanut butter cookies, as well as brownies and cupcakes.

Dining out

Duck’s Cosmic Kitchen, 111 New St., Decatur, 404-371-8823

Signature dish: Sandwiches on freshly baked bread

Entree prices: $7.50-$10

Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturdays. Brunch: 10 a.m-2:30 p.m. Saturdays.

Reservations: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.duckscosmickitchen.com