By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

The hamburger is an American obsession. So much more than beef and bun, it's comfort food and a guilty pleasure, the long-running subject of social debate and, suddenly it seems, the object of gourmet fetishization.

Just watch that TV commercial where "Top Chef" judge Padma Lakshmi makes eating a Hardee's Bacon Western Thickburger look like an outtake from "Nine 1/2 Weeks."

Or witness "Top Chef" finalist Richard Blais creating a buzz at Atlanta's Flip Burger Boutique -- applying his molecular gastronomy skills to uberpatties made from house-ground hanger steak, brisket and short rib.

"The thing you have to realize is that chefs are usually burger fanatics," celebrity chef Bobby Flay told BusinessWeek soon after opening four Bobby's Burger Palaces in New York and New Jersey. "When we go out after a tough shift, we go for burgers, and so we have a lot of opinions about how to do it right."

Doing it right has become the rallying cry for several "better burger" chains recently opened in Atlanta.

Two of the newest, Canyons Burger Co. and Cheeseburger Bobby's, are homegrown. But Virginia-based Five Guys Burgers and Fries has nearly 30 restaurants in the metro area now. The Counter, which is based in California, opened in Roswell last year. And Florida-based EVOS opened in Sandy Springs in June.

What all five have in common is a fast-casual concept that's a cut above fast food, with higher quality ingredients and an atmosphere that ranges from sophisticated to fun to feel good. Of course, expect to pay more for it - up to $8.50 for a one-third-pound cheeseburger at the Counter.

Earlier this month, I embarked on a burger odyssey, traveling throughout Atlanta to try out each place.

I ate five burgers in five days. Not exactly a heart-healthy regime. But the method to this calorie and cholesterol madness was simple. I ordered the signature burger with cheese and the kinds of toppings that would show freshness and quality, such as lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

After all, even McDonald's is offering a new Angus one-third-pound cheeseburger with those things. And as it turned out, that "better" fast-food burger proved a good test case. Surprisingly, the toppings, including McDonald's, were all pretty good, and some were super.

Not surprisingly, every burger I tried, except for one, was better than McDonald's. Cheeseburgers at the Counter, Cheeseburger Bobby's and Five Guys were so clearly superior that comparison with Mickey D's was a moot point.

Which brings us to the bottom line: Fresh beef, well-seasoned and cooked in a manner that keeps it juicy, is what makes a better burger; a fresh bun and toppings bring it all together. With that criteria in mind, here are my tasting notes, listed in order of preference:

The Counter

Location: 850 Mansell Road, Roswell, 678-461-9661, www.thecounterburger.com

Concept: A contemporary rendition of the classic California burger joint, with industrial decor, loud music, beer, wine and thousands of different cooked-to-order burger combinations built from a clipboard menu.

Pros: This is the only one of the five places where you can get a blood rare burger. Confident or crazy, it's certainly a testament to the freshly ground all-natural beef. A one-third-pound "Old School" burger ordered medium rare was juicy and perfectly seasoned, with gooey Tillamook cheddar and a fragrantly bready bakery bun.

Cons: A knife-and-fork burger that can be difficult to eat fully loaded with toppings; loud music; sides only come in large sharing sizes; the most expensive of the five burgers tasted.

Extras: Nice selection of craft beers on draft, including Anchor and Dogfish Head; thin, crispy fries and onion strings; high-quality cheeses and toppings, including gruyere and fried onion strings.

Bottom line: A burger on par with what you might find at many fine dining restaurants.

Cheeseburger Bobby's

Location: 125 Ernest Barrett Parkway N.W., Marietta, 770-919-9110, www.cheeseburgerbobbys.com

Concept: A nostalgic trip for Atlanta brothers Richard and Bobby Stoll, offering hand-pattied burgers, a cozy, family setting and superfriendly service.

Pros: The surprise burger of the tasting. A Bobby Sr. burger ordered with cheddar cheese was ready for pickup after a short wait. Even though cooked well-done, as per company policy, the double beef patties were hot, juicy and well-seasoned, and the bun was nicely griddled. Toppings on the "Build Your Own Burger" bar were equally fresh and tasty.

Cons: The tight restaurant layout can feel even more cramped when there are crowds lining up for a table or toppings; burgers are only cooked well-done.

Extras: Excellent hand-cut fries; frozen custard; kids menu; servers who bring around extra treats.

Bottom line: A homegrown contender for a winning better burger franchise.

Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries

Location: 253 Caroline St., Edgewood, 404-688-6474, www.fiveguys.com

Concept: Higher-quality, never-frozen ingredients and a limited number of made-to-order menu items served in a no-nonsense atmosphere have made this strip center burger joint a sensation.

Pros: Five Guys is another well-done-only place, but stacked together, the griddled double beef patties seem to create some sort of juicy synergy. A cheeseburger ordered with lettuce, tomato, mayo and pickles took a while to arrive, and the meat was a tad underseasoned, but overall a close third, pushed closer to second by the briochelike bun.

Cons: Made-to-order means there can be a long wait for food, even when it doesn't seem that busy; burgers are only cooked well-done.

Extras: Excellent hand-cut fries; peanuts to snack on while you wait; good free toppings.

Bottom line: Good quality fast-casual burgers (and fries) you can find all over town.

Canyons Burger Co.

Location: 3877 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta, 404-841-9933 www.canyonsburgercompany.com

Concept: Fresh, never-frozen Angus beef burgers served up by friendly folks in outdoorsy surroundings meant to evoke "an active lifestyle."

Pros: Good toppings and a fluffy bakery bun go beyond fast food. A classic cheeseburger with American cheese was made better by very good dill pickle chips, fresh leaf lettuce and ripe tomato. The "180" cheeseburger combo with fries and a drink is a good deal at $7.98 plus tax.

Cons: Burgers aren't as well-seasoned or juicy as the top three, and the bland crinkle-cut fries evoke fast food.

Extras: Kids menu; milkshakes; salads; bottled beer, including Sweetwater 420.

Bottom line: A pleasant Atlanta-based fast-casual franchise, but the burger lacks beefy impact.

EVOS

Location: 5590 Roswell Road N.E., Atlanta, 404-252-4022, www.evos.com

Concept: The logo says it all: "Feel Good Fast Food." And the mix of natural, organic and lower-fat ingredients and groovy decor is aimed at making that a reality for customers.

Pros: Natural hormone-free beef and no oil or fryers mean healthier burgers and fries, and the fresh, natural toppings are good.

Cons: Burger patties and "Airfries," cooked in specially designed convection ovens, just don't taste like the real thing. The burger has the consistency and flavor of meatloaf and is served on a thin, chewy cibatta-style bun. The fries resemble frozen oven fries but are even more bland.

Extras: A variety of free self-serve sauces good for jazzing up the fries; fruit shakes and organic milkshakes.

Bottom line: A commendable "feel good" fast-casual franchise, but the burger isn't really a burger.