By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Duluth has become the go-to place for Korean cooking of all kinds. But count Fusion YoriJori Burger in the food court at Assi Plaza on Pleasant Hill Road as one of the newest and quirkiest examples, mixing the flavors of Korean cuisine with American fast food.

Intown, Wonderful World Burgers & More in Emory Village and Hankook Taqueria on the westside are trying similar things. But as an adjunct to the sprawling Lotte Assi Korean supermarket, Fusion YoriJori is deeply embedded in Atlanta’s thriving suburban Asian culture.

Interestingly, the Lotte company also runs Lotteria, a popular fast-food chain in Japan and South Korea that’s comparable to McDonald’s and features a bulgogi burger.

Korean burgers

The Fusion YoriJori marinated bulgogi burger ($4.99, or $6.99 with fries and a drink) has the classic savory-sweet flavors of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and garlic. The well-done, griddled ground beef patty has the soft texture of juicy meatloaf. It’s tucked into an even softer sesame seed bun, topped with spicy mayo, lettuce and tomato, cut in half, and speared with cocktail toothpicks.

The kimchi burger (also $4.99, or $6.99 with fries and a drink) has a more unusual melange of textures and flavors, with the addition of bright, crunchy stir-fried kimchi and gooey American cheese.

Other choices include a DIY burger with a choice of toppings, a veggie burger, and a BLT, grilled chicken, tuna or egg salad sandwich. Oddly, there’s also a selection of pastas, including Thai and Italian-style garlic-cream or spaghetti and meatballs.

Twisted treat

One of the best bites is called twisted potato ($1.99). It’s a deep-fried, tornado-shaped spiral that’s sort of a cross between British-style chips and a carnival snack. Order this tasty treat sprinkled with powdered hot chili, cheese or bulgogi seasoning.

Food court finds

Beyond Fusion YoriJori, the food stalls at Assi Plaza offer plenty of sustenance, along with some sweet indulgences.

Mozart Bakery features a profusion of lovely Korean pastries. Lee’s Pho, a Vietnamese noodle and sandwich shop, has a very good pork banh mi sandwich on airy French bread for just $2. And there are several other Chinese and Korean places serving rice and noodle dishes at equally reasonable prices, as well as a couple of Mexican spots.

Fusion YoriJori Burger, 1630 Pleasant Hill Road, Duluth 678-638-0822

Signature dish: Korean-style burgers

Entree prices: $4.99-$6.99

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Sundays

Reservations: No

Credit cards: Yes

Online: No Web site

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