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Food & Restaurants 9:33 a.m. Tuesday, October 20, 2009

In Season: Cauliflower

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For the AJC

If you find yourself irresistibly attracted to farmers market cauliflower displays in the next week or two, just go with it. It’s all part of the plan.

Curried cauliflower. Styling by Deborah Geering.
Phil Skinner, pskinner@ajc.com Curried cauliflower. Styling by Deborah Geering.

Local cauliflower is a relative rarity. Because of its sensitivity to heat and light and its short harvest window, few area farmers plant it.

“It is not for the faint of heart to try to grow, that’s for sure,” said David Bentoski of D&A Farm in Zebulon. “It’s not really fit for our climate.”

Cauliflower likes cool, damp weather — in short supply in Georgia. Too much sunlight can discolor the bright white curd (technically an inflorescence meristem, which I know only because I Googled it). When the temperature dips below freezing, the curd turns to mush.

“You have to get the timing right; that’s the main thing,” said Celia Barss of Woodland Gardens, near Athens. And then, there’s just the one harvest per plant. It doesn’t keep producing the way leafy greens can do.

So why would anyone grow it at all?

“For the same reason we do all kinds of different veggies here,” Barss said. “We strive to have as much diversity as we can. And from a personal level, it’s stimulating.” The fun, apparently, is in the challenge.

Bentoski also enjoys the challenge, not to mention the competitive advantage. “Even if it is a little bit of a pain, and I don’t make as much money on it as other things, I still like to grow it,” he said. “When they stop by my stand to buy my cauliflower, I’m hoping they’ll also buy my kale and my collards.”

You can find both Barss and Bentoski at their respective stands — trying to attract you with their cauliflower for the next few weeks — 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. Saturdays at Morningside Farmers Market, 1393 N. Highland Ave.

At local farmers markets

Apples, arugula, Asian pears, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, cucumbers, eggplant, field peas, figs, flowers, garlic, green beans, green onions, herbs, kale, kohlrabi, Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, leeks, Malabar spinach, mixed greens, muscadines, mustard greens, nasturtium, okra, bok choy, pears, pecans, peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, radicchio, radishes, shiitake mushrooms, spinach, summer squash, sweet potatoes, Swiss chard, tatsoi, tomatoes, turnip greens, turnips, winter squash

From farther afield

Looking good: Apples, Georgia and Virginia beans, California cantaloupe, Michigan and California carrots, California and Georgia corn, California and South Carolina greens, Chilean and South African oranges, Washington and California pears, Georgia and California peppers, California plums and tomatoes, Texas and California watermelon

Coming in: California beans, New England cranberries, Mexican blackberries, Arizona cantaloupe, Florida corn and cucumbers, Texas grapefruit, Brazilian grapes, Georgia greens, California and Texas oranges, Virginia pumpkins, Florida tomatoes, Florida and Mexican watermelon

Variable quality: Caribbean blackberries, Mexican carrots, California strawberries

Local reports and the Packer

Curried Cauliflower and Potato

Hands on: 20 minutes Total time: 30 minutes Serves: 4

Inspired by the Indian dish aloo gobi, this veggie main course is not so much spicy-hot as it is spicy-flavorful. If you like a big, bold curry flavor, use the larger measurements. If you’re not sure how much spice you want, start with the smaller measurements; you can always add more.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 to 1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds

1/2 to 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 small onion, chopped

1 medium potato, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 to 2 teaspoons curry power

1/2 to 1 teaspoon coriander powder

1/2 to 1 teaspoon red chile powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 small head cauliflower, cut into bite-size pieces

1 roma tomato, diced

Juice of 1/2 lime

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

2 cups cooked white rice

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds. When they start to sputter and pop, add the cumin, onion and potato. Cook 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are golden on some edges and the onion is translucent. Add the curry powder, coriander, chile powder and salt; stir to distribute the spices evenly. Add the cauliflower and tomato, and stir. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is just tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the lime juice and cilantro. Serve over rice.

Per serving: 236 calories (percent of calories from fat, 29), 5 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 8 grams fat (1 gram saturated), no cholesterol, 287 milligrams sodium.

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