By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Kabobee may be an unlikely outpost for Persian food, situated at the edges of Castleberry Hill and Mechanicsville, near Whitehall Street and Northside Drive in south Atlanta. But the tasty, inexpensive kabobs and wraps, served up with friendly enthusiasm, are worth the drive from surrounding neighborhoods — and are a real find for downtown workers looking for a quick change from the usual fast food.

Bright and simple

The free-standing building looks as though it could have been a gas station or a tire store in another incarnation; most recently, it housed a fried seafood joint. Stripped down and scrubbed up by the owner, Reza Ashtiani, the atmosphere is bright and simple, almost antiseptic, with rows of gleaming white tiles and banks of tall windows that bring in lots of light. Seating is at a few small tables, and outside, there's a covered patio. Order at the counter from the oversized menu hanging overhead and grab a seat.

Persian delights

The menu is built around char-broiled beef, lamb, chicken and fish dishes, but there are several vegetarian options, with roasted vegetables, and a soup of the day. On a recent rainy afternoon, a hearty lentil and tomato soup, served with freshly made flat bread, proved a a perfect starter.

The thin, white wheat bread, rolled out and cooked in a tandoor oven while you watch, is a bit bland and less crispy than the typical Indian naan. But it's easily livened up with a pat of butter and makes for a sturdy wrap. The chicken, with hunks of marinated, skinless-boneless breast meat, turned bright yellow by lemon and saffron, is mildly spicy and tangy and made even better with a shot of the house yogurt sauce.

Kabobs come on an oblong platter with a mound of delicate Basmati rice ornamented with strings of saffron and a pair of juicy grilled Roma tomato halves. The ground sirloin, mixed with grated onion and spices, is easily the most winning bite. The lamb has the most meaty flavor and texture. And the marinated tenderloin steak is the most deluxe offering.

Salads and sweets

Wraps come with a small garden salad. Other choices include a Greek-style salad with feta cheese and black olives. The shirazi salad is a bright melange of chopped cucumber, tomato and onion with an herb-lemon dressing. There's also a cool cucumber-yogurt salad.

For dessert, look for thick triangles of nutty, gooey baklava or a slice of cake.

Beverages include soft drinks, bottled water, hot tea and bottled doogh, the salty, sour Persian yogurt drink.

Dining out

Kabobee, 609 Whitehall St., Castleberry Hill, 404-688-8885

Signature dish: Kabobs and wraps

Entree prices: $6.50-$10

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.

Reservations: No

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.kabobee.com

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