By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Enchiladas come in more than a dozen a la carte versions at Pura Enchilada in Lawrenceville, each deftly rolled in delicate, house-made corn tortillas. But there are many more superfresh dishes to savor, from a starter of pan-fried tamales with mole sauce to a meaty sampler platter, laden with grilled chicken, steak, shrimp, chorizo, bacon and pork ribs, plus quesadillas, and black beans and rice.

Casa poco

Pura is located in a small, rustic building on West Pike Street. In front, there’s a fenced patio furnished with wrought-iron tables and chairs. Inside, the homey terra cotta-colored walls are decorated with serapes, shelves displaying Mexican pottery, and other assorted artifacts.

Seating choices include booths, tables and stools at the cozy bar. Service is fast and friendly; instantly, it seems, baskets of warm tortilla chips arrive, accompanied by smoky roasted jalapeno and zippy cilantro salsa.

Authentic enchiladas

During a recent phone interview, Pura chef/owner Amador Gutierrez said he “didn’t want to open the typical Mexican restaurant or taqueria.” To that end, he decided to re-create some family recipes and feature authentic enchiladas from various regions of Mexico.

Gutierrez’s made-to-order enchiladas are inexpensive ($1.95-$2.85) and surprisingly substantial. The menu describes the fillings, sauces and toppings in detail, down to a sprinkle of sesame seeds, and rarely does the reality of the finished combination disappoint.

Slow-roasted lamb mixed with spinach and sunflower seeds is one of the most distinctive and subtle. The succulent meat is nicely complemented by a topping of cumin and clove tomato sauce. Slow-roasted pork has a similar texture, but a melange of guajillo and ancho peppers, fresh herbs, cheese, and tomatillo salsa gives it a bright flavor. On the lighter side, look for enchiladas with shrimp and scallops or crab meat and cream sauce or spicy marinated grouper with lime jalapeno sauce.

Masa and more

In addition to tortillas and tamales, the kitchen fashions gorditas ($8.95) and deep-fried sopes ($6.95) from homemade masa dough, stuffed with chicken or steak. House-made chorizo appears in several guises. Tacos, quesadillas or a chimichanga can be ordered with a variety of fillings, including chorizo, carnitas and tongue. Roasted chipotle-rubbed brisket ($8.99) is served with beans, rice and mustard salad.

Margaritas made with fresh juices and a selection of American and Mexican lagers on draft and in the bottle are the stars of the full bar. For dessert, it’s fried ice cream, churros and a chocolate chimichanga.

Dining out

Pura Enchilada, 252 W. Pike St., 770-962-9291

Signature dish: Enchiladas

Entree prices: $4.99-$18.95

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturdays; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.puraenchilada.com

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