By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

These days it seems, hotel dining runs the gamut from the simple to the sublime. Sure, there's still barbecue night at the extended-stay place. But there's also the really expensive dinner at one of the new boutique hotels that feature celebrity chefs, such as Jean Georges or Tom Colicchio.

Recently opened in the renovated Atlanta Marriott Buckhead Hotel & Conference Center in Buckhead, Shula's 347 Grill falls somewhere in-between, and trades on another kind of celebrity; it's named for retired pro football legend Don Shula of the Miami Dolphins.

Lobby spot

Shula and his family own a string of successful restaurants, with several different concepts, including the original Shula's American Steak House. Shula's 347 Grill (the number 347 celebrates Shula's record as the winningest coach in NFL history) is the family's first Georgia restaurant.

A sort of hybrid steakhouse and sports bar, 347 Grill is pitched to appeal to business travelers and tourists both in the swanky, but not too swanky, atmosphere and the multiple price-point menu, making it a natural for a busy hotel.

The main dining room has a casually sophisticated look, with hardwood floors and paneling, granite tables and leather booths. Of course, there are photos of local sports figures on the walls, along with discretely positioned flat-panel TVs of various sizes.

On a recent weeknight, though, only a few diners were scattered around its dimly lit confines, while the bar and surrounding area, which adjoins the front lobby, was packed with people at high tables and perched on sofas.

Steaks, sandwiches and snacks

Though Shula and his wife, Mary Anne, can be seen on TV to endorsing Nutrisystem weight-loss products, the 347 menu of hearty all-American steaks, burgers, sandwiches and snacks, with a few salads and fish dishes, isn't exactly diet fare.

Steaks top out at $29 for a substantial 14-ounce Black Angus New York strip. Ordered medium rare, it was well-seasoned and cooked to a perfect warm red center. But it lacked the char and buttery quality characteristic of more expensive steakhouse stuff. That said, entrees here include two sides, and with grilled asparagus and a loaded baked potato, it's a pretty good value.

Other offerings include a flavorful, and less expensive flat iron steak, served with crispy onions and smashed potatoes, and the fresh fish of the day. The "Club Shula," stacked with ham, maple-glazed turkey, apple wood-smoked bacon, and two kinds of cheese, is the signature sandwich, and along with the big burgers, it appears to be a bar favorite.

Snacks and starters include the ubiquitous spinach and artichoke dip, as well as crab cakes, blackened tenderloin tips and fried ravioli.

There's an express lunch menu, with ten items priced at $10, served every day from 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

Dining out

Shula's 347, 3405 Lenox Road N.E., 404-848-7345

Signature dish: Steaks

Entree prices: $11-$29

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays- Fridays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturdays.

Reservations: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.shulas347atlanta.com

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