By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Owner/partners, manager David Rutledge and chef Jason Meinhardt, met while working at Flying Biscuit Cafe in Candler Park. That background is apparent in the multitude of egg dishes on the menu — from eggs any style to omelets and the likes of Eggs Josephine and Eggs Benedict. But the selection of salads, burgers and sandwiches conjures Atlanta’s Thumbs Up Diner.

Cheery charm

Rutledge and Meinhardt took over a former seafood restaurant and gave it a bit of cheery charm, with a lively color palette and a shabby chic sense of style. Seating options around the corners of the cozy, oddly shaped space include stools at a counter, and a collection large and small tables and some fancy upholstered banquettes. Service is super friendly, if a tad scattered at times.

Gentle omelets

A while back, AJC Food and More columnist John Kessler praised Meinhardt’s deft touch with an omelet — in particular the Sophia ($8.59), with gruyere cheese and bacon.

In a recent phone conversation, Meinhardt said he has a background is in “fine dining” and he cooks his omelets “with the gentle fold of the French style.”

Indeed, the eggs are a soft, pale yellow with no hint of brown, and fillings tend toward the delicate. But sometimes that can translate to a touch bland.

During a recent visit, the Tex-Mex omelet ($8.59), a mushy combo of tomato, avocado, jalapeno peppers and Monterey Jack cheese, was surprisingly more blah than burning. Fortunately, Meinhardt is a pepper sauce aficionado, and a few hits from a bottle of the Yucatan Sunshine habanero stuff helped considerably. And so did a tasty side of rich cream cheese grits.

The sandwich side

The Monte Cristo ($8.79), turkey, ham, cheese between slices of French toast dusted with powdered sugar, trades between savory and sweet and breakfast and lunch. The Red Hen grilled cheese ($8.59) is a gooey blend of gruyere, cheddar and Jack, with roasted tomatoes, arugula, and chipotle mayo. Beef, turkey or portabella burgers are crowd-pleasers.

Sides include flabby, fresh-cut parmesan-herb fries or crispy sweet potato chips. The the daily $10 lunch special includes a choice of a sandwich and a side, with a drink and a freshly baked cookie.

Dining out

The Red Hen Cafe, 5310 Windward Parkway, Alpharetta, 678-297-0200

Signature dish: Omelets

Entree prices: $6.99-$8.99

Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Sundays.

Reservations: No, but call ahead for large parties

Credit cards: Yes

Online: www.theredhencafe.com

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