By Bob Townsend

For the AJC

Economic hard times, blogger-fueled foodie fixations and the unstoppable burger boom — Wonderful World Burgers & More gets at all those things with its bargain-priced, Asian-influenced fast-food menu. Better yet, the Emory Village spot does it in a simple but stylish atmosphere that's friendly and efficient.

Wonderful wood

Wood is the word when it comes to the decor. The vintage storefront space twinkles with dangling lights, while slivers of light emanate from between slats of rough-hewn barn-board paneling. Long, narrow wooden tables, inset with wells for condiments, and tall wooden chairs offer tidy but convivial communal dining. At the order window, there's a view into the kitchen, where cooks work fry stations and a large flat-top grill.

Fast-food fun

Wonderful World owner Stephen Chan (who also owns Tin Drum, Atlanta's burgeoning Asian fusion chain), says he ate his first hamburger at a McDonald's when he was a child in Hong Kong.

Chan's signature WonderfulBurger ($2.75) is on the small side but bigger and thicker than a slider. The well-seasoned, cooked-to-order beef patty comes topped with gooey American cheese, lettuce, and bread and butter pickles on a soft grilled bun. The house sauce pulls the combo together with a touch of sweet spice.

The plain hamburger ($2.25) or cheeseburger ($2.50) can be ordered with lettuce, tomato, onion or pickle for an additional 10 cents each, and 35 cents for bacon.

The Teri-Mayo hot dog ($2.95) is Chan's take on the Japanese-style dog made famous by Anthony Bourdain on the "No Reservations" TV show episode that featured Vancouver's Japa Dog. Here it's split and grilled, topped with teriyaki sauce, kewpie mayo and crispy roasted seaweed, and it's served on a grilled Vienna bun. Salty, sweet and slightly smoky, it's a fun, Asian-flavored guilty pleasure.

Sides include thick crinkle-cut fries made with Yukon Gold potatoes and dusted with sea salt and dill. Onion rings are hand-sliced, dipped in tempura batter and fried to a golden crunch.

And more

Chan says he's a big fan of New York City chef David Chang of Momofuku fame. The original menu at Wonderful World featured a nightly Asian "family meal" special, such as home-style Thai curry or Chinese braised pork shoulder. But kimchi stew ($3.75 small/$5.50 large) is the only holdover on the current menu. The spicy Momofuku homage is made with hanger steak, and the beefy broth is studded with pickled napa cabbage, scallions, and hunks of carrots and radishes.

Other Asian offerings, familiar from Tin Drum, include a Thai chicken wrap and a shrimp tempura wrap, both served in a whole-wheat tortilla with romaine lettuce and a variety of condiments.

Bottled beer, including Sweetwater 420, is priced at $2, making Wonderful World even more of a budgetwise wonder.

Dining out

Wonderful World Burgers and More, 1561 N. Decatur Road, 404-373-8887

Signature dish: Burgers and more

Entree prices: $2.25-$3.75

Hours: 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. daily; 5-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Reservations: no

Credit cards: yes

Online: www.wwburger.com

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