Access Atlanta > The Newcomer > Archives > 2008 > August > 07 > Entry
My, how Atlanta changed!
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Today’s Newcomer guest post comes from AJC business reporter Kristi Swartz, who covers media and technology. She’s one of those semi-newcomers who came back to the city after a number of years away. She recognized some of it…but not all of it. Jamie will be back next week, and would not be surprised if a new condo development had sprouted up on top of her apartment in the time she’s been away.
I arrived in Atlanta as a fresh-faced eager intern who wanted to see and do as much in the city as I could.
That was 10 years ago.
So after a few stops in North Carolina and Florida, I’m back in one of my favorite cities. Some of it, like walking through Piedmont Park and listening to live music at Smith’s Olde Bar was as familiar as if I had never left. But there were also changes, some rather striking. Here’s a list of what I found:
Traffic. OK, this is a no-brainer; the traffic has always been a mess. But I remember the usual backups on I-85 and 400 during rush hour or before a Braves game. Snarled traffic on side streets in the middle of a Saturday afternoon is beyond me.
Atlantic Station. I came from Florida, where people like to eat, drink and shop. And, in Atlanta, people like to eat, drink and shop. I don’t know if it’s the location or the size, but Atlantic Station is just colossal. And, I hope I don’t have to go anywhere near it during the holiday shopping season.
Piedmont Park. I am sad that the city’s major festivals can’t be held here because of the drought. I get it. But it makes me sad.
Parking. I had forgotten that some lots charge for parking at night. But I guess ALL lots charge for parking at night. And during the day. And any other time. I just don’t like paying the equivalent of a premium beer or more before I actually get inside wherever I am going to actually drink beer.
Lofts. Lots and lots and lots of lofts. Actually, it’s not that there are so many nice loft apartments, it’s that I am not sure that management got the memo that we’re in a housing downturn. Here, you can rent this eclectic two-bedroom loft for the monthly price of … the mortgage payment on my Florida home, even after I gave the tax man my arm and the insurance company both of my legs.
Downtown. I work down the street from the CNN Center, and 10 years ago I recall that was about the only place around to go eat lunch or perhaps hang out after work. (I could be wrong.) I was pleasantly surprised to discover the number of little affordable restaurants along Broad Street as well as a couple of hot spots that have sprouted up along Marietta. The downtown still needs some work, but it’s nice to see how much it’s developed.
Grant Park and East Atlanta neighborhoods. I lived in a pretty eclectic neighborhood in South Florida. There was a downtown strip that came alive at night but it was mixed in some cute, restored homes with some ones that needed some TLC. I don’t know what drove the improvements to Grant Park and East Atlanta, but I find both neighborhoods to be full of charm.
Decatur nightlife. Downtown Decatur wraps up a little early. Now, I don’t need to be out at 2 a.m., but there are far too many places that close at 11 p.m. on a Friday and Saturday night and well before that during the week. And it’s a shame, too, because the places along the square are fantastic.
Returning newcomers, what changes surprised you when you came back to the metro Atlanta area?
Permalink | Comments (34) | Post your comment | Categories: Uniquely Georgia
Comments
By Shane
August 7, 2008 3:04 PM | Link to this
uh, so no one’s posting today, eh?
What’s up AJC?
I’ve lived here most of my life and I’d say the decatur and east atlanta areas have improved tremendously - pretty much everything else that’s changed about the city is pretty durn negative - poor policing, poor leadership, significantly higher pollution, traffic and violent crime. Not the kind of changes we were all hoping for I’m sure.
Let’s all just hope that Clark Howard runs for mayor - then we can have a chance at seeing more positive improvements to the city.
By Toastmaster
August 7, 2008 3:05 PM | Link to this
If you’re in Decatur - you need to venture away from the bistors on the square - some of Decatur’s great taverns are known for staying open until 4:00 AM during the week and 3:00 AM on weekends - much later than Atlanta’s. And - you’ll meet really fun, eclectic people there - not the posers you see in midtown, etc.
By outtahere
August 7, 2008 3:35 PM | Link to this
I just wish all the New Yorkers go back to NY.
By Fred Sanford.
August 7, 2008 3:40 PM | Link to this
Since all you are interested in is beer-guzzling and getting plastered, why don’t you just buy a six-pack At Publix and drink it in the parking lot? Cheaper and the exact same “benefit” is produced. Yuppie scum — be a dull world without ‘em!
By Citizen of the World
August 7, 2008 3:51 PM | Link to this
I’ve lived in Atlanta for 27 years, but my experience with downtown — first in the early 90s and again now in the late double aughts — has changed considerably and for the better. It’s a lot livelier now, due in large part to the pioneering efforts of Georgia State and the intrepid souls who bought the first lofts.
As to your wondering what “drove the improvements to Grant Park and East Atlanta” — the clue is in the word “drove.”
By Tony S
August 7, 2008 3:51 PM | Link to this
Having a bad day, Fred? Sounds like YOU need a beer!
By fred flintstone
August 7, 2008 4:00 PM | Link to this
I’ve lived here since 1982 and frankly can’t wait to leave. This place is ridiculous. Traffic, smog, garbage, too many freakin’ people. As soon as I can, I’m outta here.
By OFW-er
August 7, 2008 4:01 PM | Link to this
You didn’t say a single word about the OLD FOURTH WARD - which, 10 years ago, you probably wouldn’t be caught dead in. If you haven’t been yet - go - you will really be amazed.
By Brian
August 7, 2008 4:02 PM | Link to this
In 1978, you could drive backwards on 285 between Buford Hwy and PIB at 2 in the morning on a Wednesday. Now I don’t think at any time of any day would it be safe to walk across 285 anywhere. Just outside 285 at Winters Chapel and PIB was the “Last Chance Bottle Shop”. My how the place has changed. Of course, you could go to a Brave’s game, buy a general admission ticket and by the 4th inning you could be sitting behind home plate.
By 1990, you could ride Marta from Doraville to the Airport. Unfortunately, 18 years later and Marta goes no further.
By Carri
August 7, 2008 4:02 PM | Link to this
I have lived here since 1991. To me, the traffic has gotten considerably worse. I have an hour to hour and a half commute each way from Canton to Pill Hill. It just keeps getting worse because more and more people are moving up to Cherokee county and nothing has been done to accomodate them on 575. Also, I used to love to attend Music Midtown every year. It was really something to look forward to. Any plans to bring that back that anyone knows of?
By HomelessWhiteMan
August 7, 2008 4:12 PM | Link to this
Buckhead is now considered Buckhood. What’s the deal with that?
By Chilled Fred
August 7, 2008 4:19 PM | Link to this
On a positive note, Freaknik no longer congregates in Atlanta.
By Chilled Fred
August 7, 2008 4:23 PM | Link to this
Actually, Buckhead is cleaning up it’s act. The late night party crowd has moved over to Castleberry Hill. Now they trash it. I understand cruising, litter, and loud music abound.
By Walter
August 7, 2008 4:47 PM | Link to this
When I lived in Sandy Springs it was nice, with no blight. And, there were actually parts of Roswell Road that were still wooded.
Oh, wait, I’m sorry. You are writing about Atlanta, which no longer includes its suburbs. Sorry for intruding.
By BPJ
August 7, 2008 4:52 PM | Link to this
In the past 10 years, the big change is that Atlanta - particularly the Midtown/Downtown part of it - has started to feel like a real city. For some people that’s a negative, especially if they preferred the 1970s/1980s essentially suburban Atlanta. For others of us, it’s great. We can, and do, walk to restaurants and other places from where we live - and the restaurants are better overall. Even that walk through Piedmont Park is different, especially on a Saturday morning at the fresh market.
The arts are another big change. The High has doubled in size, and significantly improved its collections and exhibitions. The Carlos has become a nationally respected antiquities museum. Atlanta’s theatres just had what the AJC called perhaps their best year ever. The ASO, under Robert Spano and Donald Runnicles, is in my opinion the best it has been.
These are just some of the factors accounting for the rise in the City of Atlanta’s population increase over the past 10 years (from a bit over 400K to over 500K). Yes, there’s more traffic; the good news is that MARTA ridership is up, and even the Governor now supports commuter rail.
By leah
August 7, 2008 4:59 PM | Link to this
I loved Atlanta before you all came. How can anyone say what has changed unless you are a Native. Some of these places didn’t exist many years ago. If you really want to know what has changed, go to AtlantaTimeMachine.com
By GA Peach
August 7, 2008 5:13 PM | Link to this
i’ve lived in ga all my life. everything has changed except for MARTA. it’s ridiculous. i’m happy that atlanta wants to become this big metropolitan city. but something that big cities have is good public transportation. that would solve a lot of the traffic headache.
By GA Peach
August 7, 2008 5:15 PM | Link to this
i’ve lived in ga all my life. everything has changed except for MARTA. it’s ridiculous. i’m happy that atlanta wants to become this big metropolitan city. but something that big cities have is good public transportation. that would solve a lot of the traffic headache. i was just telling my mother last week that if i didn’t know the street names i wouldn’t know where i was. there is an explosion of condos.
By iknowitall
August 7, 2008 6:04 PM | Link to this
Flintstone, you’ve been here since ‘82? What’s taking you so long to hit the bricks?
By Shirley
August 7, 2008 8:18 PM | Link to this
I guess she hasn’t been to Atlantic Station or Lenox yet after dark. Of course we all knows who comes. Black people now are more out of control than ever in this city and everyone is sick of it. I am sure she was hit by at least five black homeless men as she walked downtown within a block. They had to put up barricades around five points because of out of control black people. That should tell you something!
By Mary
August 7, 2008 8:26 PM | Link to this
We moved to ATL in 71..a big city with a samll town feel…we turned it over to the next generation in 1999 and moved to the Keys. Imagine my total surprise to see the air pollution hanging as a grey cloud over what was once a beautiful sky line. Living in the FL Keys we don’t have the smog ..please save what trees are left in Gwinnett and the surrounding counties.
By Davis
August 7, 2008 8:41 PM | Link to this
I lived in atlanta from 73-77 and had two different apartments in the 6900 and 7200 blocks of Roswell Rd., it was wonderful back then, have returned 4 times but not since 1998, such changes even then!, planning a few days this October. I remember when SS was so enjoyable, PLEASE, does anyone remember Bonanza Steak House, Morrisons cafeteria , Big Star food stores, I have been following ajc religiously and have picked up on a clue that the apartments along my ole stretch are NOT what they used to be, back then, it was luxury zone, and now I hear of crime, shootings, could someone reassure me, its not changed that much!, remember the Western Electric site way up on the hill?, could someone comment on my post? thanks, still have fond memories of Big A, I worked in Peachtree Center, marta was 15 cents, does any of this ring a bell? LOL the stand alone Sears in buckhead, I could go on and on….
By Jeri
August 7, 2008 8:53 PM | Link to this
Shirley you are an ignorant idiot.
By Shirley
August 7, 2008 8:59 PM | Link to this
Call me what you want! Everyone knows its the truth. Watch the local news tonight.
By jay
August 7, 2008 9:29 PM | Link to this
The biggest problem facing Atlanta now is crime.Murder,robbery and HOME INVASIONS is out of control like never before. The Mayor needs to get together with the police department and they need to really hit these communities hard with arrest , raids every week until they get the gang bangers in Gwinett and drug dealers. It’s really bad up there. Gwinett use to be a beatiful place. Now it is very, very dangerous.The Mayor needs to care more about public safety and act. Just don’t talk. Do something about it. Do it NOW. Stop waiting. ACT NOW.
By mightymouse
August 7, 2008 9:42 PM | Link to this
I beg your pardon!1Seems to me I’m in Mexico,or Guatemala somewhere!Illegal immigrants everywhere I look!Damn,the US dollar bill must really need a boost,cheap labor and scalawags everywhere in this one-horse town!
By Bronco
August 7, 2008 10:01 PM | Link to this
I have been coming to Atlanta since I was 18 years old and that was 1968. Piedmont Park, the 14th street hippie era, the party times of the 70’s. The Buckhead years of the 80’s and 90’s. I enjoyed all those years and what Atlanta had to offer. But now there is so much more and so much less. The city has nothing to offer now at least to me. I have made my money and moved north. Too many robbings, attacks on good individuals and anything else thats evil. Now when the sun goes down, there are animals whose only purpose is to prey on the innocent to make money for their habits. I am now sick of the place, but when I do come to the city now, I am packing and dare any scumbag who trys to take what is not his, to go ahead and make my day.
By barneyb
August 7, 2008 10:20 PM | Link to this
Been here for over 30 years- loved it, now hate it, and when I retire, will move. A city I loved has turned into a festering crime-ridden dunghole full of corrupt, inept politicians, hip-hop thugs, traffic, and a crumbling infrastructure. Really sad- this was an incredible city.
By joe
August 7, 2008 10:33 PM | Link to this
I’ve been here since ‘83. The biggest change I’ve seen over the years is that Atlanta wants to be like NYC and has lost what made it special: its Southern charm.
By BPJ
August 7, 2008 10:34 PM | Link to this
It’s interesting how the Mayor of Atlanta is expected to “get” the crooks in Gwinnett.
Atlanta is not the place for posters such as “Shirley” - good riddance.
By atlmom
August 8, 2008 12:34 AM | Link to this
Um, the mayor of ATLANTA and the APD (that’s ATLANTA Police Department) can’t do ANYTHING much in Gwinnett county. Perhaps the police up there, and dekalb county can? Seriously, we have enough to do here…
I’ve been here since ‘95 (from NY) - and wow - has it changed. But my husband (Not only Atlanta native, his grandfather was BORN in the ATL) - and I talk a lot about moving. Since we will not move to the suburbs (just city kinda people) if we leave Atlanta, we leave the whole metro area. The traffic, the lack of leadership, the taxes, the whole thing, it’s sad really, we have a great intown community around us.
By Jeremy
August 8, 2008 1:57 AM | Link to this
Shirley, Why don’t you move to Idaho or Wyoming where you may not have to worry about “the blacks!!!!!” ALL people commit crimes, not just “the blacks!!!”” The media only shows black crime and it causes people like you that probably have never been around “the blacks” to think this way. I live in a nice area of Gwinnett off Collins Hill and my home was burglarized by who? Not blacks or hispanics, but some stoned white kids from Dacula. So you can’t escape crime no matter where you live.
By Corey
August 8, 2008 8:12 AM | Link to this
Gleaming condo towers and less public housing projects. I implore all of you to start reading The Atlanta Business Chronicle. You will be surprised at all the upcoming development in the city. Mandarin is moving its headquarters here from N.Y. If you rely solely on the AJC and local TV news (sensationalism masquerading as journalism) then you are forever angst ridden. People, can’t you see the media wants us to constanly be at each others throats. It’s always we/they us/them blacks/whites ITP/OTP and on and on. Have a nice day.
By Reality
August 8, 2008 8:27 AM | Link to this
We constantly hear smash and grab bobberies happening in the city of Atlanta, but wait. Thirty-one stores in Henry County have been hit by smash and grabbers, but it barely made the news. One smash and grab robbery in the city of Atlanta will be rehashed infinitely by the local media. Why is that? Why the local media does not provide intense coverage of crime in the burbs like they do in Atlanta? One crime committed in Atlanta will be replayed so often that people will get the impression that it happende one hundred times. Do the suburban governments pay the media to downplay the ills in their communities? Just wondering.