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Have a hankerin' for some Chinese doughnuts? How about a hot pot? Here's a small taste of China in Atlanta:

Canton House

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Many dim sum houses in the Atlanta area are also full-service Chinese restaurants, with full menus. Some, like Canton House, even serve dim sum for dinner. And the offerings are some of the best in the area: shrimp balls, orbs of light-textured, greaseless, wonton-wrapped shrimp filling, are served fresh and hot. Dumplings (siu mai) are a little doughy, but the pork (with shrimp) is an exception —- plump, firm centers filled with meaty flavor. Translucent shrimp dumplings (har gow) are splendid, filled with plump, pink shrimp and wrapped beautifully like tiny fans. Spare ribs, seasoned with little more than salt and lots of black pepper, are another standout.

4825 Buford Highway, Chamblee. 770-936-9030, www.cantonhouserestaurant.com.

Tasty China

Steer away from the American side of the menu and let owner Phuong Nguyen guide you toward the sloppy wonderfulness of a dish of sharp pepper fish, made with tilapia and silken tofu mixed in a heap of red and jalapeno peppers, or a hot beef dish with "spicy green peppers" brought as a sizzling hot pot teeming with slices of jalepenos.

585 Franklin Road S.E., Suite B-3 Marietta. 770-419-9849, www.tasty-china.com.

Chef Liu

Chef Liu makes some of the best Chinese dumplings in the area, plus an array of Chinese noodle dishes such as cha chiang mein with its rich black bean sauce covering fat, house-made noodles and leek pie. Save room for a Chinese doughnut to dip in warmed soy milk.

5221 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-936-8181

Mini Hot Pot

As the broth at the hot pot table begins to bubble, a plate heaped high with napa cabbage, silky-fresh tofu, fish balls, enoki mushrooms, chunks of taro root, slices of lotus root and a raw egg is brought, along with a separate plate of thinly sliced beef, pork or chicken over shredded cabbage. Noodles (udon, sweet potato and Shanghai white) are available, too, as well as rice. Mini Hot Pot offers a fun take on Chinese hot pots —- a seafood combo includes Manila clams, oysters, snapper, octopus and surimi crab legs.

4897 Buford Highway, Suite 160, Chamblee. 770-458-8882