FROM THE STREET, Fina Italian Bistro in College Park appears the epitome of a neighborhood Italian red sauce joint. The brick facade is accented with tri-color awnings over the windows and corner entrance. And a pair of cafe tables and chalkboard signs on the sidewalk complete a scene that might just as easily be found somewhere in New York's Little Italy or Boston's North End.

BISTRO ROMANTIC: Inside, the feel is bistro-style cozy and romantic. The brick walls are hung with black-and-white photographs, and white tablecloths and Thonet chairs give the room a simple flair. A small corner bar is set with a bucket of chilled wine, and another blackboard lists the current selection of wines by the glass. On a recent Friday evening, a lone saxophonist punched up a recorded backing track and played jazz standards, while several couples nodded their approval from the candlelit shadows.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Fina Italian Bistro's pizza — including chicken pesto, served with wine — has a thin crust and a tangy, slightly spicy sauce.
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ITALIAN-AMERICAN: There are no big surprises on the Italian-American menu, which leans heavily toward pasta favorites. And that's mostly a good thing. Especially since most entrees are priced under $15. Calamari, dusted in cornmeal and flour and fried to a tender crunch, comes with spicy marinara on the side. The Fina salad is a large plate of romaine, bell peppers, tomatoes and onions tossed in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Fluffy focaccia comes with a dish of peppery olive oil spiked with more balsamic. Lasagna, while not completely classic — in that the béchamel sauce seems to be missing in action — is nonetheless flavorful and more than substantial, with a meaty ragu and loads of gooey cheese. Chicken saltimbocca isn't stuffed and rolled as might be expected. Instead, the prosciutto, spinach and cheese are layered on top. But the result is still one of the tastiest ways imaginable to fix up a lowly chicken cutlet. On the side, creamy spinach fettucini is sinfully rich.

PIZZA AND LUNCH: Fina pizza is thin-crust, with tangy, slightly spicy New York-style sauce. The basic Margherita is perfectly satisfying, with lots of mozzarella and fresh basil. But there's also Milano, with chicken and artichokes, and Rustica, with proscuitto and arugula. At lunch, there are several sandwiches, including a hamburger and roasted eggplant, served with soup or salad for $6.25. Desserts range from cannoli and tiramisu to crème brûlée and cheesecake. And the bar serves a variety of specialty cocktails and after-dinner drinks.