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Longtime Roswell residents will remember, but perhaps not recognize, the building that houses Relish, chef Andy Badgett's newest restaurant. The owner of the Fickle Pickle and the now-defunct Asher has carved a 160-seat casual eatery out of the old Roswell Funeral Home.

"We were a little concerned at first about how people would receive a restaurant in an old funeral home," said Badgett. "But it's a beautiful stone building from the turn of the century, so we're glad something really good is in it now."

Phil Skinner/AJC Staff (ENLARGE)
Hungry? Chef and restaurateur Andy Badgett displays the hickory-smoked pulled pork sandwich with sweet potato fries at Relish, his latest and relaxing dining establishment.
Phil Skinner/AJC Staff (ENLARGE)
The new Relish is the latest restaurant from chef Andy Badgett, who also owns the Fickle Pickle. Relish's beautiful stone building started out in life as a funeral home. The full-service restaurant features a menu of 'new Southern cuisine.'
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A fabric store, salon and offices are part of the mix, but Badgett anchors most of the first floor and the stone patio that looks out at the corner of the Roswell square. (Some will recognize the sunroom with its original stone wall as the former porte-cochere for hearses.)

But banish any mournful thoughts as you enter the space that's now bright with big windows and warmed with wood tables and chairs. And get ready to be comforted.

Laid-back Southern

Badgett's goal was to have a place where you can pop in wearing shorts and sandals or grab a drink at the bar before heading home. That relaxed atmosphere shows in the no-fuss menu, with plenty of Southern-inspired favorites. The runaway hits so far: the pimento cheese fritters, sitting in a pool of sweet pepper jelly and oozing hot orange cheese when sliced; and grouper atop a blend of roasted corn and lima beans. The pan-roasted chicken breast with sweet potato ravioli and spinach in a brown butter sauce and the grilled rib-eye with scalloped potatoes are two other hot items.

The short entree selection also includes a grilled pork chop; spare ribs in a Coca-Cola barbecue sauce; hanger steak with mac 'n' cheese; shrimp and grits; buttermilk fried chicken; and trout wrapped in bacon. While waiting for the main course, nibble on cheese straws, deviled eggs, crab hush puppies, and hot potato chips with blue cheese.

The pretty patio will be a great spot to grab dessert. Go for the mini fried peach pies with buttermilk ice cream; peach and blueberry crisp; or the bread pudding made with — no kidding — Krispy Kreme doughnuts.

Sunday brunch covers the requisite egg and bread dishes, along with trout, steak, onion quiche, crab cakes and pimiento cheese omelets. Lunch is a blend of items from both brunch and dinner menus, with sandwiches, burgers and more salads mixed in.

From the bar

With names such as Fickle Pickle and Relish on his résumé, Badgett must spend a lot of time with cucumbers. And he has come up with an unusual way to serve them: in a startlingly refreshing cucumber lemonade, cucumber martinis and a Jack Daniels cocktail. "People hear 'cucumber' and think it's strange," admits Badgett. "But they love it."

There's a full line of cocktails, domestic and imported beers, and wines from around the globe. The price tier for wines is $25, $35, $45 and $55 per bottle, with by-the-glass selections priced accordingly.

RELISH

Where: 590 Mimosa Blvd., Roswell. 770-650-7877

Signature dishes: Pimento cheese fritters; grouper with roasted corn succotash

Entree price range: $12.95-$19.95

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays -Saturdays; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; Sunday brunch, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

Credit cards: Yes

Web site: www.relishgoodfood.com