Friends told us that Cheeky Taqueria in Suwanee was a must-try spot, but their praise didn't fully prepare us for being blown away by the quality of the food, attentive wait staff and personal touches. Mimmo Alboumeh (whose previous restaurant ventures include Barcelona in Johns Creek) and Jose Hevia opened Cheeky in September in a strip shopping center on Peachtree Industrial (just past the Burger King is the landmark most folks give). It serves lunch and dinner and recently started brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. "We wanted to bring something more redefined, besides your standard Mexican restaurant," said Alboumeh, also the executive chef. Behind the basic exterior is a lively eatery with fresh, festive fare.

GAVIN AVERILL/Special (ENLARGE)
For an appetizer, try the guacamole dip, freshly mashed and with a deft blend of cilantro and onion. You might decide to order a second round along with your meal. vvv
GAVIN AVERILL (ENLARGE)
Executive chef and co-owner Mimmo Alboumeh said he wanted something 'besides your standard Mexican restaurant'; one of his creations is the crab cake taco.
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As expected, fiery salsa and salty chips arrived in baskets as soon as we sat down. Several others, from a mild pasilla to an extra hot morita, are served in smaller batches to accompany the entrees. The guacamole was so tasty — the avocados seemed to be mashed just before coming to our table, with a nice blend of cilantro and onions — that we requested another order to save for the entrees. The grilled beef making up the alambre appetizer (with applewood bacon that wasn't cooked enough for our taste accompanying the beef on skewers and served with warm corn tortillas) was so tender, it prompted a fellow diner to order the steak burrito.

People with a preference for fish tacos will be pleased. Cheeky's version had a light batter, dressed with a spicy poblano slaw (add lime to lessen the heat). All taco platters come with three corn tortilla tacos, plus sides of rice and delicious, creamy refried beans. One reason why Alboumeh said they're different from other places is that he slow cooks the beans, instead of overcooking in a hurry. But the crab cake tacos are my new craving. A crispy ball that featured the sweet crab meat didn't include unnecessary peppers expanded to fill the entire tortilla. It was sweetened with a pineapple chipotle glaze and topped with slaw. Absolutely perfect. But there's plenty for carnivores, too, and the steak on the tacos and in the burrito was memorable, a 180-degree version of the greasy and tough steak we've endured elsewhere. Melted queso topped the burrito, but the dish somehow retained an unexpected lightness. We were almost able to eat the whole thing.

Alboumeh used his pastry skills for a simple but sensational dessert – churros con chocolate. The churros were crispy on the outside but fluffy on the inside and served with a ramekin of melted hazelnut chocolate. We kept dipping until all the chocolate was gone, unfortunately. Other desserts included a creamy flan and tres leches made with a sweet orange-flavored cake. The food complemented the attentive service. For example, when our entrees arrived and our waiter noticed that a fellow diner wasn't there because of traffic delays, he took the dish back and later brought out a fresh one.

Another unique item about Cheeky is the use of taps attached to a few high-top tables in the bar. Diners draft Dos Equis as they desire, with the tables' tallies flashed on a flat-screen TV. The cost ranges between 25 and 29 cents an ounce. Cheeky also offers 75 tequilas and carries the idea of fresh to its drinks, making its own lime mix for margaritas.

Sure, there's a kids' menu, but the restaurant's family friendly atmosphere is evident elsewhere. Children are allowed to take home a stuffed animal. And presents under the Christmas tree weren't just for show; kids can unwrap them to find real toys.

CHEEKY TAQUERIA

Where: 1039 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Suite A 122, Suwanee 30024, 770-831-8887

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday, 10 a.m.-midnight Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

Reservations: Yes

Recommended dishes: Guacamole, tacos de lujo (crab cake tacos), grilled steak burrito, churros con chocolate

Prices: Appetizers, $4.95-$8.95; soups and salads, $2.95-$5.95; entrees, $8.50-$14.50; desserts, $4.95-$5.50

Verdict: An unforgettable eatery with its own spin on Tex-Mex.