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With a new facade, an enclosed patio, some French music playing softly and the charming accents of owners Aline and Cathy Silverstine, you'll be hard-pressed to remember that the new La Petite Maison was once a Johnny Rocket's.

The Roswell Road location, just above the Red Baron's antique emporium, twinkles with white lights around the patio and a warm yellow glow from the dining room. There's room to linger at the bar or to settle back into one of the red velvet booths for a meal of French dishes, much like the sister owners would serve in their own home.

Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Scallops with risotto cake and brown batter jus is just one of the items on an extensive menu of meats, pasta and seafood at the new Petite Maison on Roswell Road in Sandy Springs. Two sisters from France run the restaurant.
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This family affair of French cooking opened four months ago, with chef Aline Silverstine giving the orders in the kitchen and also preparing the appetizers and desserts. At the front door, her sister and other family members greet guests and introduce them to many of the dishes they learned from their family's business in Nice. The two came to Sandy Springs at the bidding of their extended family, who felt that the new city would be a great location for some ooh-la-la cuisine.

In French, with subtitles

Not to worry that your French isn't as fluent as the wait staff's: The menu lists items by their French names, then explains the ingredients in English.

Start with a salad topped with shrimp and crab, smoked salmon and goat cheese or tuna and onions. A half pineapple is stuffed with greens, tomatoes, shrimp, crab and heart of palm. Starters are hearty, and plentiful for two: The marinated grilled veggie platter is spread with thinly sliced eggplant, zucchini, peppers, lima beans and penne, drizzled in pesto sauce. The plate also includes toast points and a warm goat cheese spread. A charcuterie and pate starter arrives with pickles and Dijon mustard; the beef carpaccio is dotted with olive oil and shaved Parm.

There are usually two specials each evening, in addition to the extensive menu of meats, pasta and seafood. One of the most popular is grilled duck breast, fanned out over potatoes, carrots and delicate green beans. The Maison's signature dish is three good-sized portions of herbed rack of lamb. Another favorite is the veal scaloppine, with sauteed mushrooms and a cream sauce.

Pastas range from the linguini with fresh pesto, smoked salmon or garlic shrimp to an au gratin of cheese ravioli. Meat lovers will be sated with the truffle-butter New York strip; a filet mignon with a Roquefort sauce; or the rib-eye with Bearnaise sauce.

For lunch, the menu lightens up with quiche, soup, a Croque Monsieur (the French version of a ham and Swiss) and a Croque Madame (ham and Swiss with a fried egg). Paninis are pressed with tomatoes, ham, cheese, chicken and vegetables. There are 11 salads to choose from, along with four pastas, a burger and several seafood entrees.

The focus is on wine. The list features 17 whites and 18 reds, hailing from France, Germany, Italy and Argentina. Twenty vintages are available by the glass. Beer options are limited to four bottled brands.

LA PETITE MAISON

• Where: 6510 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs, 404-303-6600

• Signature dishes: rack of herbed lamb, veal scallopini

• Entree prices: $9.50-$39.50

• Hours: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; dinner, 6-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays

• Reservations: yes

• Credit cards: yes