The now-defunct Tortillas in Midtown helped popularize the concept of the bulging, overstuffed burrito in Atlanta. These days they're everywhere. Both corporate chains and mom-and-pop shops are rolling and wrapping chicken, beef, beans and the works. We sampled a handful. But just one paw can't handle these. Burrito munching is often a two-fisted affair.

PHIL SKINNER/AJC (ENLARGE)
1998 photo The Monster at Raging Burrito takes the basic formula then doubles key ingredients.
WILLIAM BERRY/AJC (ENLARGE)
1999 photo El Myr's Green Burrito wraps a spinach tortilla around a variety of heat makers and veggies.
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TUCKER

Taqueria Los Hermanos

The Ballesteros brothers had to enlarge this bright and splashy original location — they have one in Lilburn, too — due to the popularity of their signature brand of Mexican cuisine infused with various flavors found both north and south of the border. Tasty tacos, a killer shrimp corn chowder, bodacious flan and a wealth of specials stay in their well-crafted arsenal. This includes significant burritos like both the Marisco and the Asada. The former lives large in a slightly rich, roasted poblano pepper-based cream sauce with shrimp, crawfish, onions and bell peppers. The Asada has tender bits of steak, cilantro and onions. Green tomatillo sauce adds tang. Melted cheese blankets the top. Both burritos demand the use of a fork.

• 4418 Hugh Howell Road, Tucker. 678-937-0660. • Map & more info

MIDTOWN

Chipotle

Chipotle locations seem to be sprouting all over the map. But this in-town spot with an intimate patio offers great people watching of the often colorful denizens on Ponce. Meat cravers can easily get their fix with chicken, steak, shredded beef or shredded pork. All are naturally raised and vegetarian fed, according to Chipotle. Veg heads can grab the vegetarian burrito. The staff warms a sizable tortilla in a hot press before filling it to capacity. White rice, black beans and sauteed peppers and onions provide stuffing. Diners get a choice of mild, medium or hot salsa. Add-ons like healthy dollops of sour cream and guacamole and a sprinkling of cheese come upon request. The cue line's winding rails resemble a theme park and it can get crowded during peak hours. But things move in a flash of assembly-line efficiency.

• 718 Ponce De Leon Ave., Atlanta. 404-685-3531, and other locations. www.chipotle.com • Map & more info.

DECATUR

Raging Burrito

Located on the downtown Decatur Square, Raging Burrito proclaims, "We roll fatties" across the ringer T-shirts it sells as after-meal souvenirs. The boast rings true, with a list of nine signature creations and enough custom options to make the imagination run wild. Among the specialty burritos is the Blackened Tilapia (with pico de gallo, cheese, rice, beans and Romaine). Cajun, jerk and Asian flavors highlight others. Guests build their own beginning with the Basic Burrito featuring rice, Jack and cheddar, salsa fresca and a choice of black beans, pinto beans, a combination of the two or refried black beans. The Raging Burrito adds cucumber, lettuce, onion and light sour cream. The seriously hungry might order the Raging Monster, which has all the innards of the previous two and a choice of double meat, three vegetables, or one meat and two veggies. The tortillas come in flour, spinach, wheat or sun-dried tomato. Additional ingredients are many, from broccoli and breaded eggplant to marinated tofu and shrimp. The narrow main dining room gets illumination from multicolored lights and a flat-screen TV behind the bar. Exposed brickwork makes up the walls; regular tables, high tops and booths account for seating. The spacious patio is a choice destination.

• 141 Sycamore St., Decatur. 404-377-3311, www.ragingburrito.com • Map & more info.

LITTLE FIVE POINTS

El Myr Burrito Lounge

Late-night hours, an abundant bar specializing in affordable, stiff libations and a smartly stocked jukebox draw the eclectic clientele Little Five Points is known for. Making up a large portion is the pierced and tattooed rock 'n' roll set. Turnover is low, so employees know many regulars by name. And it's the food that keeps their bellies full, including super-size burritos. The staff loads combination burritos with Monterey Jack, lettuce, salsa fresca and a mix of black and pinto beans. House specialties come in varieties like barbecue chicken, and potato, black olive and corn. Creativity comes out of the kitchen with the Green Burrito. A spinach tortilla holds broccoli, spinach, green chile peppers, guacamole and jalapeños. Or take a stab at a burrito with marinated, grilled tilapia swimming with mushrooms and onions.

• 1091 Euclid Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-588-0250, www.elmyr.com • Map & more info.

BUCKHEAD

Willy's Mexicana Grill

Willy's titanic burritos come together in a step-by-step process while you watch. Each comes with rice, a choice of pinto or black beans, salsa and cheese. Guests get one premium item (sour cream, roasted red peppers, black olives, grilled green peppers and onions) on the house. The popular guacamole costs 80 cents extra and gets made fresh each shift. But a slew of free additions like cilantro, slaw, cucumbers and chipotle salsa give diners a chance to craft a colossal burrito at no extra charge. Some guests go gaga over headlining fillings like the Sinaloa Chicken, a marinated, chargrilled chicken breast popping with flavor courtesy of orange juice, garlic and spices. Vegetarians can get the same treatment with a tofu substitute. Beef hounds often choose the chargrilled steak soaked in a cilantro and garlic marinade.

• 2280 Peachtree Road N.W., Atlanta. 404-351-4671, and other locations. www.willysmexicanagrill.com • Map & more info.