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Black-eyed peas, collards get year off to a good start

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

The New Year is right around the corner, and it’s time to belly up to a plate of black-eyed peas, collards — or, if you’re downright traditional, both. Here are some spots that’ll serve ‘em up righteously.

AGNES & MURIEL’S (not rated)
1514 Monroe Drive N.E., Atlanta. 404-885-1000. www.mominthekitchen.com

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Becky Stein/AJC Special

You can get your collard greens braised with bacon and served with skillet fried chicken, sweet corn pudding and mushroom-herb broth at Wisteria.

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This tiny house on Monroe Drive may have defined Southern retro chic, with cake-icing-colored walls outfitted with one of the greatest Barbie collections this side of the Mississippi. Here, Barbie’s got a Southern accent, with collard greens spruced up stylishly with sesame and lemon. Look for a second location to open on Piedmont Road in January.

BUSY BEE CAFE (not rated)
810 Martin Luther King Drive S.W., Atlanta. 404-525-9212. www.thebusybeecafe.com.

Go early for lunch, or you may end up standing in line for this busy soulfood/meat ‘n’ two’s smothered fried chicken, collard greens and fried okra. Blackeyed peas are served on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

WISTERIA Three stars
471 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-525-3363, www.wisteria-atlanta.com

One of the first to bring Southern food out of the frying pan and into the fire of culinary fashion, Inman Park’s Wisteria serves indigenous ingredients like black-eyed peas in the clever guise of a slightly chunky hummus served with sweet potato chips, plus skillet chicken served over peppery collards speckled with bacon.

MATTHEW’S CAFETERIA (not rated)
2299 Main St., Tucker. 770-491-9577, matthewscafeteria.com.

Folks in Tucker use Matthews as a directional marker, it’s been there so long. Its fried chicken, black-eyed peas (only on Mondays Wednesdays and Fridays), yellow squash and turnip greens make it as popular as ever — a Friday lunch will be packed with families, cops and construction workers.

JCT Kitchen Four stars
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252, www.jctkitchen.com

Chef Ford Fry’s menu boasts good old-fashioned farmstead cooking, but with French fundamentals and bistro style. Here, slurp up sides of collard greens or turnip-and-potato gratin to ring in a prosperous New Year.

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