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Are You Meat-Centric?
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
In the mood for salad? TOO BAD. We’re talkin’ meat today, and lots of it.
Photo: Tammy Ljungblad/MCT
Today’s review in the Living Section takes a long, hard look at Holeman & Finch Public House — a megalith of meat mania.
Meat — especially alternative cuts of it — is becoming the next big thing: Anne Quatrano confirmed plans of a meat-centric restaurant she plans to open with chef-husband Clifford Harrison in the White Provision complex being built of the West Side called Abattoir (which means slaughterhouse in French).
Seems we’re returning to a time when total utilization of product was paramount. What do you think? Do you want to eat pig’s feet and tails? What about souse (pig’s head)? Have you been to Holeman & FInch? What did you think?
Since I didn’t get to my FIve Fave on Wednesday, here’s a list of my fave meat dishes, alternative cuts or otherwise:
The “cow and chicken” burger at Beef O’ Brady’s in Grayson — don’t expect this combo of boneless wings, hamburger and American cheese at all the BOB locations — just this one. What a wackdoodle thing to eat. It’s all good. 2715 Loganville Highway, 770-682-5224.
Shaun’s Heritage pork schnitzel with Vidalia onions, peanuts and parsley. OMG good — like Germany ran into Southeast Asia and had a fried pork cutlet baby. The peanuts make the dish, especially with a little twist of feshly squeezed lemon. 1029 Edgewood Avenue NE, 404.577.4358, www.shaunsrestaurant.com
The crispy veal sweetbreads at FAB, a perfect mix of tender, sweet, crunchy and savory. New executive chef Stephen Sharp makes them every bit as good as they ever were. 30 Ivan Allen Jr., Blvd., 404-266-1440, www.fabatlanta.com.
Pork belly, tender and juicy with a crispy edge, over creamy grits with charred onions and house-made bread-and-butter pickles at Holeman & Finch. OMG good. 2277 Peachtree Road, Suite B, 404-948-1175, www.holeman-finch.com.
And finally, the greatest piece of meat this side of the Mississippi: The bone-in ribeye at Bone’s. Hello gorgeous. If Cary Grant had been a steak, this would be the one. And Bone’s cooks to perfection. 3130 Piedmont Rd. NE, 404-237-2663, www.bonesrestaurant.com.
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Comments
By Rodney
June 13, 2008 10:47 AM | Link to this
Generally I only get the “meat sweats” after a big honkin’ beef-fest but … thinking of all the fantastic dishes you mentioned (particularly the pork belly - my word I’m craving it now) I find myself glistening with meat-sweat anticipation!
Omnivore, with a leaning to carnivore …