Home > Table Talk > Archives > 2008 > November > 20 > Entry
Proustian Holidays
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
At a family gathering the other night, my mother promptly announced that she would not be making fruitcake for the holidays this year. With one whisper, a 50-year-old tradition vanished.
At 83, the last year brought a battle with breast cancer, a near-fatal car accident (I was driving) and this New Year, she’ll need to undergo knee replacement surgery. She and my father found an “excellent” fruit cake at a bakery in Palestine, Texas, on their last trip, and she’s ordering the candied, nutty cake from them. Period.
But I’m so sad. I really don’t even like fruit cake that much, but I loved the tradition of her making it — it was like a scene straight out of Capote’s “Christmas Memory” — the Herculean effort that went into her fruitcakes. Unlike Capote’s “friend,” my mother never sent a fruitcake to the president, and certainly not to FDR. She made them mostly for my father and youngest brother, who adored them.
Every year about this time she would send my father for all the ingredients and when I was young I remember loving the rich, spice-laced batter licked from the end of a wooden spoon.
When I got home later that night, I cried. I will miss this part of her so much. And it’s hard for me to admit that she’s just not up to the task anymore. I even offered to make the cakes, but she and my father are resigned. And so a tradition ends.
It made me think of her Christmas fudge; her pound cake; her cornbread dressing — how I would miss them! Even as my sister and I take over the duties of the holiday kitchen, part of the reason these things are so dear, I know, is because my mother has been making them for us for so long.
I shared this with colleagues, and it seems I’m not alone: everyone had a certain something that they just can’t live without when it comes to the holidays: pepperoni yeast rolls are apparently a West Virginian tradition; juicy, crisp peach cobbler made by a great aunt who has passed; a grandmother’s lemon pound cake.
What holiday food tradition could you not live without?
Permalink | Comments (37) | Post your comment | Categories: Dining





Comments
By kar
November 20, 2008 1:30 PM | Link to this
There’s a lot of things that I miss around the holidays like my grandmother’s baked corn or a great aunt’s fruit cup. Going through the trash because someone threw out a piece of good silver by accident.
The one thing that stands out is making the Ice Cream. For Thanksgiving we used to hand crank ice cream in the garage. It was a custom that everybody had to take a turn or it wouldn’t taste right. Also customary were the jokes about having a half galleon from a convenience store in the freezer “just in case.” Of course the male cousins especially would hassle each other by sticking the wooden stick down into the ice water to distribute the ice and salt. This made turning the handcrank harder - a macho thing. The little cousins (not me anymore) would fuss over who got to lick what part of the paddle afterwards. To top it off we’d use an ancient chocolate sauce recipe from a matriarch long since passed.
We don’t all get together at Thanksgiving like we used to but it was always a great mix of in-laws and outlaws. A daughter-in-law’s in-laws. An ex-wife would bring her new husband.
By Maniac is accurate
November 20, 2008 1:59 PM | Link to this
My grandparents and parents are all gone, so you learn you can live without all your family traditions. My father’s fruitcake cookies were awesome, my grandmother always made ambrosia and my mother made German chocolate cake. Miss the folks most of all, the traditional foods next of all.
By new mom
November 20, 2008 2:06 PM | Link to this
If you haven’t already, I suggest that you make sure that you have copies of those treasured family recipes, before it’s too late. Not to sound doom-and-gloomy, but you never know what our future holds, and those family recipes will become a treasure someday.
Even if “no one can make it the way __ did”, it’s still a nice way for families to share in a memory, and remember a special relative (or honor one still living who can no longer cook). I baked my Granny her “famous” Italian Cream cake for her 90th birthday a few years ago. Of course it wasn’t as good as hers, and honestly, I don’t think it meant that much to her that I baked it for her. But it will always be a special memory that I could do that for her, and for the rest of my family. And what an appreication I gained by doing it—it was a pain in the patooty to bake!!
By DoItYourself
November 20, 2008 2:32 PM | Link to this
Meredith,
The gist of a “tradition” is that it continues from one generation to another. The best way you can relive those memories of your mother is to continue making those cakes, just the way she did. Why are you (and believe me, I am just gulity like you) pining for those memories when you have a treasure trove of memories today and in the future? Wouldn’t your mom want you to create those special moments for your kids and grandkids some day? Or, are you (and by extension, our generation, including yours truly) so used to things having been done for you (what one of my buddies calls the Burger King syndrome) that it is too much of an effort to make your own cakes?
Wish you Merry X’mas!
By anne
November 20, 2008 2:47 PM | Link to this
I started making fruitcake in 1970 when my Dad found a recipe that he thought wss “interesting”. The fruitcake was shared only with family and friends who enjoyed this delicacy. When Dad passed away 20 years ago, I announced that I would no longer make the fruitcake. My announcement was met such protests, that I continue to make and share the fruitcake every year and think of my Dad and how much he enjoyed this tradition.
By JC
November 20, 2008 2:49 PM | Link to this
If it’s the same bakery that my mom orders her fruitcake from, you should be excited. I have never in my life tasted fruitcake better than that.
By OEStar68
November 20, 2008 2:54 PM | Link to this
Since turkey can get tiresome, we choose to either have it on Thanksgiving or Christmas, whichever day not chosen, we will have something different like fried chicken, pork chops, pot roast. We also rotate the vegetables. One constant is the ham though, my son would kill me if I didn’t cook a ham for both holidays.
I have friends that forgo the traditional meal altogether. One grills meat and has a cookout (yes, in the winter !) and another has seafood night.
Turkey can wear you out, may be it is all that TRYPTOPHAN.
By Noelle
November 20, 2008 3:05 PM | Link to this
I’ve been making “old family recipes” myself for years. There’s no reason that a beloved food tradition has to die out completely, even if the person who originated it is no longer around. Get those recipes and do it yourself!
By Rebecca
November 20, 2008 3:09 PM | Link to this
I agree with the comments about passing on the tradition. My sisters and I always made butter cookies at Christmas—roll them out & ice them. Now my daughter is making them for her school friends! One tradition my children don’t want to give up are the presents that Santa places by the fireplace. If they ever found a “Santa” present under the tree they would be horrified! My girls are 20, 18, & 16. But things do change. That’s part of life. When they leave and get married I’m sure they will start traditions of their own.
By Deb
November 20, 2008 3:32 PM | Link to this
My Mom used to make fruitcakes and the smells that centered around that kitchen would make your mouth water! No one knows what they are missing until they have eaten one fresh and warm out of the oven. My Mom also used to make Japanese fruitcakes and they were fabulous. This year has seen her go downhill so rapidly at the age of 81 and she is passing on all baking — even the Thanksgiving dressing. A part of my childhood is dying as well and, I too, have cried.
By David S
November 20, 2008 3:34 PM | Link to this
Since becomming a vegetarian there is absolutely NO holiday food tradition I cannot do without. Talk about lightening the emotional load!
My wife and I went so far as to go to Belgium and Holland for the Thanksgiving holiday back in 2001. What a wonderful time we had. I cannot remember what we ate that Thanksgiving day, but I’m sure that warm fries, outstanding Belgian beer, and fine Belgian chocolate were in the mix.
Most importantly we spent the holiday with the one we love, were able to have a warm meal, were able to have a warm place to sleep, and were not suffering for the lack of life’s basics as so many in this world are. Were that we could afford that tradition every Thanksgiving.
When the tradition becomes more important than the reason for the celebration, you have missed the point alltogether.
Its just one meal people.
By mystery poster
November 20, 2008 3:37 PM | Link to this
Christmas Cookies. I always make a ton from scratch. When my kids were young, they would help me frost and it would be such fun. Now they’re older (19 and 22) and neither has much interest in baking or frosting. I’m afraid this tradition will die with me.
By kar
November 20, 2008 4:14 PM | Link to this
David, I think that you’re missing the point. It’s not just about the food itself but the milestones and memory behind the dishes. People think about Mom in the kitchen cooking for her loved ones, not just how good “Mom’s” mashed potatoes are each year. The proprietary way that Uncle Fred wouldn’t let anyone else carve the bird. Or how you used to be the little kid cracking nuts for the fruitcake and now it’s your 5-yr old grandson.
Heck, I suspect most of us hate this or that “heritage” dish but we love the person who makes it or we laugh about the year that they substituted the wrong ingrediant in the dish. I hate the butternut and squash dish that my cousin’s wife makes each year but it’s a symbol of her entry into our family and our acceptance of this special woman.
Sure it’s fun to explore and pare down the holiday’s but it’s also special to remember our loved ones and their pride in the dishes that always added an indescribeable flavour. There’s no reason why you can’t re-discover the true meaning of a holiday with loved ones as well as strangers in a different land.
By RobinS
November 20, 2008 4:24 PM | Link to this
I couldn’t imagine xmas without Mom’s scalloped corn and home made chocolate pies and pistachio delight. It’s not about the food so much as Mom doing those special things every year…tradition, it’s good for kids to grow up with.
By Sassy
November 20, 2008 4:26 PM | Link to this
Uh, how about taking over the tradition and carrying it forward?! Get the recipe (if you don’t already have it) and involved the kids or other family members.
Seems a no-brainer to me.
mystery poster The kids will turn around when they have their own families. Trust me on that!
By Sarah
November 20, 2008 5:05 PM | Link to this
I know I won’t be around forever, so last year our Christmas gift to the kids (18 and 23), sisters and brothers were handmade binders filled with all the favorite recipes - holiday or otherwise. We can exchange recipes, and add to what is already there. We got rave reviews for the recipe books from all who received them.
By Tony
November 20, 2008 5:11 PM | Link to this
I have taken the mantle of fruitcake baking in my family. My grandmother passed away a year ago and someone had to do it. No one in the family likes fruitcake, but someone has to make it.
By Old School
November 20, 2008 5:46 PM | Link to this
Mammaw (husband’s grandmother) at age 95 announce she would no longer be “keeping house.” She still presided over Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners until her death at age 102 but no longer made the cake and pie we loved dearly.
That Christmas my gift was her handwritten recipe for Lemon Cheese Cake and my husband got her pecan pie recipe, also handwritten. Mine don’t compare despite my faithful following of the recipes but both do spark many happy memories and tales of that wonderful, strong, funny lady.
By mystery poster
November 20, 2008 5:49 PM | Link to this
Sassy: Thanks for the words of encouragement, they made me feel better :-)
Sarah: I did something like that for my daughter the first year she was on her own. I asked everyone in the family to contribute some favorite recipes and I put them all in a binder. I involved my son by having him design the cover. My grandmother contributed some of her favorites (hand written), and they are priceless now that she has passed.
By KYwoman
November 20, 2008 6:07 PM | Link to this
Shortly before my husband’s grandmother died last year, my husband and daughter took up the tradition of making peanut butter roll, candy pudding, caramels and bourbon balls…the whole family loves the fact “Mammaw’s” food lives on…me I have to have corn pudding!
By Roy
November 21, 2008 8:16 AM | Link to this
KYwoman: bourbin balls were my favorite! I remember my grandmother and great aunt would cook for 2 or 3 days before a holiday. They grew up on a farm in south Georgia and all cooking was done from scratch. Damn it was good! Nowadays most people don’t have the time (nor the skills)to put into these big dinners. For all those that do thanks for carrying on this great American tradition!
By Ayn Rand was Right
November 21, 2008 8:42 AM | Link to this
This Christmas I will miss my Dad’s candy cane coffee cake almost as much as I will miss him.
By Kathi
November 21, 2008 8:54 AM | Link to this
Our family could not live through a holiday without Paradise Salad.
I’ve been training my young granddaughters on the preparation knowing that the day will come when I won’t be here to make it.
By lovelyliz
November 21, 2008 9:04 AM | Link to this
What holiday food tradition could you not live without?
None really. When it comes to the holidays, the food traditions are nice, but really low on the priority list.
There was my mother’s fruitcake and Christmas cookies. Keep in mind that this woman has been diabetic for 40+ years and complains every year about having to make all those desserts Despte the fact that my sister and I live half way across the country and are more carb conscious these days, every year we get that package, that thoughtful, loving, stale, crumbled package in the mail and throw away what the guys at work won’t even touch. We tried telling Mom not to bother especially with all the complaining she does to no avail. I love Mom but she’s ever the martyr.
Last year my father was diagnosed with type 2 diabetes and Mom has decided not to do the cookies and fruitcake. My sister and I aren’t the least bit disappointed. Mom & Dad will spend less $$$ and have more time during the hliday season.
By Rick
November 21, 2008 9:16 AM | Link to this
No fruitcake this year, but whatever you don’t let the recipe for it and other traditions vanish. Make sure parents and grandparents share the recipes and all the tricks to prepare it. You may not make it this year, but there is always next year. It’s very important that traditions continue.
By Doc
November 21, 2008 10:04 AM | Link to this
The way I see it is; “Is your arm broke! Get off your duff and become part of the tradition!” Make the fruit cake yourself. That is how traditions are made and maintained.
By Missing Mom
November 21, 2008 10:08 AM | Link to this
My mom’s sweet potato pies. No one else can make them like her. I’ve tried but it’s just not the same
By Big Juicy
November 21, 2008 10:19 AM | Link to this
I’d say mom’s poundcake; so light and airy it floats off the plate.
I think lost traditions are just a sgin of our microwave, quick-prep society. It gets more difficult each year to prepare so many dishes from scratch when all year long you’re in warm-up mode. Good thing though is that with every passing tradition, you can create new ones…
By Vickie
November 21, 2008 10:36 AM | Link to this
At Thanksgiving my mother always made a fruit salad that is my favorite leftover along with cornbread dressing; I’m the only one in my family that will eat it; but I’ll make it until I can no longer stir a pot!
By Robo
November 21, 2008 10:37 AM | Link to this
My sister’s whipped sweet potatoes covered with those itty bitty marshmallows browned to perfection. I call it Thwop (patent pending) in honor of the sound it makes hitting the plate.
I hate this dish. It makes me gag. But I can’t bear a T’giving Xmas without it. Luckily, J and the kids love it.
By Alli
November 21, 2008 10:54 AM | Link to this
My Mom’s stuffing. I have had it since I was a little girl! She always made extra. Now I make it ( along with the turkey), as Mom can’t anymore, and my family expects it every year. Turkey is not the same without it!
By Alli
November 21, 2008 10:55 AM | Link to this
My Mom’s stuffing, and the fruit salad. I have had it since I was a little girl! She always made extra. Now I make both( along with the turkey), as Mom can’t anymore, and my family expects it every year. Turkey is not the same without it!
By Becky
November 21, 2008 10:59 AM | Link to this
missing mom, I also miss my Mothers sweet potato pies..Not only do I miss the pies, but I miss the days when I could eat a whole pie & not worry about being fat..LOL
By JJ
November 21, 2008 1:54 PM | Link to this
mystery poster Memories. When we were little, my mom would hand make sugar cookie dough, roll it out by hand, and we would use cookie cutters and decorate the cookies and just have a blast.
I now carry that tradition in my house. Usually, around December 15th, we have a cookie party. But I use the Pillsbury dough at the grocery store. I do flour my counter and roll it out, and the kids just love to make the cookies.
My daughter is a senior in high school this year, and her friends just love to come to the party. Last year, I had 15 high school kids, both girls and boys, just laughing and having a blast at my dining room table. At first, they were reluctant, and thought it was silly. But when a few came a couple of years back, word spread. Her friends cannot wait to to it again this year. The boys are even excited about it. They have already chosen December 14 this year and have informed me to be ready. I am expecting about 20 kids this year.
By Meridith Ford
November 21, 2008 2:26 PM | Link to this
Wow — such great traditions here — I love the ice cream on Thanksgiving — yum!! Believe me guys, I’ll carry on the tradition, even if my mom says no. I have traditions with my daughter that will help, too: we do a holiday cookie party every year, too. Nothing like an afternoon of baking with six little (not so little anymore) girls to get your holiday juices flowing. And this year, we add a new tradition: latkes and applesauce on Hannukah. Happy holidays, everyone. And thanks for sharing.
By kar
November 21, 2008 4:08 PM | Link to this
JJ, we do something similiar.
Mom had these old cookie cutters for santas, trees, stockings, reindeer, the works. We’d paint sugar cookies using confectioner’s sugar and food coloring. Plus sprinkles, jimmies and anything else that comes to mind.
Now my brother does it with his kids. Needless to say, they’re nothing Martha Stewart would make but it’s fun watching my nieces and nephews do it.
By Meg
November 24, 2008 5:14 PM | Link to this
OMG, that just made me cry. It seems all of our food-related traditons are already gone, so I relate to your tears, and shed some for you! We don’t even do a turkey anymore. Christmas dinner is now a delicious pumpkin soup my sister makes. But its no tradition. I miss my Aunt’s little pearl onions, I didnt much like eating them, but they were so pretty on the plate.
Unrelated to xmas.. I have to ask about a lost family recipie…a 7-layer moist moist cake, called Gentleman’s Favorite. Ever heard of it? Anyone?