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THERE'S A SCENE from "The Simpsons" where a yuppie saunters into Moe's Tavern, surveys the joint and sniffs: "This isn't faux dive. This is just a dive." Said fictional character would probably declare likewise about Cabbagetown's Crazy Horse Bar & Grill, assuming he'd ever walk through its beer-soaked doors. Very doubtful, as this Memorial Drive watering hole is a confirmed refuge for the urban redneck. (And that's no smear.) As unwelcoming as it may seem on the outside, inside it's cordially raucous, tailored especially to those who appreciate barflies and abhor pretense. Just ask the pregnant barmaids, each of whom were in admirably good spirits on a recent night, considering their condition. They are, says one, like a family, noting her mother and father once drank here: "Some people are scared of this place, but it's a good bar."

PRICE: Ha! Drinks are cheap and strong, and unscheduled karaoke nights aren't subject to any kind of cover charge. And that's as live as the music gets.

TUNES: Plenty of country on the jukebox.

SCENE: Generally, reputations are earned, and the Crazy Horse has acquired a rough one. Maybe it's because its doors open at 10 a.m. Perhaps it's the loads of dated pickup trucks in the parking lot. Or maybe people aren't accustomed to -- quoting the Atlanta Rhythm Section -- "a touch of country in the city." Alongside the white guys with rebel flag caps were Latinos with mullets and women attired boyishly. And yet, more tension could be found at a church social. Still, the uninitiated quiver, such as one "urban pioneer" acquaintance who, when asked to join the outing, retorted: "I'd be scared to go there at noon, never mind at night." His loss. Doubt he'd care much for Moe's, either.

• THE 411: 687 Memorial Drive, Atlanta. 404-523-5495.

-- Christian Boone