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PULLING OFF the bar-and-grill thing isn't as easy as it looks. Most are good at one or the other but have difficulty pulling off both roles. In its ninth year in Cumming, Spondivits (spawn of the airport area restaurant of the same name) has managed to fulfill both convincingly. It's more substance than style, with a simple "sports bar meets crab shack" décor. The bar faces minimal competition in the Cumming nightlife department, and staying open until 2 a.m. on weekends (1 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays) has cemented Spondivits' reputation as a late-night destination.

TUNES: Live bands, generally of the oldies/rock/country flavor, are featured Fridays and Saturdays at 9 p.m. Thursday evenings, karaoke. No cover charge for any of those events.

SCENE: While karaoke night tends to draw a bit younger crowd, the bar area features a fairly fluid mix of regulars and newbies, typically in the 30-to-50 age range. Don't be surprised to see a few bikers; Spondivits had a promotional deal with 96 Rock that attracted some of the biker set (more weekend warrior than Hell's Angel). The deal has lapsed, but choppers remain a familiar sight in the parking lot.

• THE 411: 519 Atlanta Road, Cumming. 770-844-9060.

-- Christian Boone