HOEDOWN'S IS PACKED with field-hand look-alikes right off "Brokeback Mountain," pierced hipster twentysomethings wearing snug-fitting T-shirts and slightly older cowgirls in faded jeans and fringed shirts. Billed as the only country and Western gay bar in Atlanta, everyone's welcome, and from the first step through the doors, the atmosphere is warm and authentic.

SCENE: Bleached steer skulls are mounted on the wall next to snapshots of longtime regulars. An enormous screen hanging from the ceiling plays muted loops of the Miss America pageant while cowboys holding bottles of Bud debate shiny dresses and whether or not James Denton is the best-looking man in the cast of "Desperate Housewives." Antique license plates line the walls, and a pair of mirrored cowboy boots hang from the disco ball over the corral/dance floor combo. Patrons lean against the bar or challenge each other to friendly games of pool. And, best of all, the skilled two-steppers and line dancers are better entertainment than an evening of "Dancing With the Stars."

Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
Painted-on jeans put Ryan Walters (left) and Robert Parson in a Western state of mind at Hoedown's, a mostly gay/lesbian spot.
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DO-SI-DO-ING: Check out the dance etiquette posted on Hoedown's Web site for the house rules on how to move around the corral. On Saturday night, the corral is crowded with couples stepping in perfect time with their partners as well as all the other pairs gliding around. Friday and Saturday nights are when the best and most serious dancers take the floor, and they are not shy when dealing with a novice. Overheard at 10 p.m. Saturday night: "Get off the dance floor if you don't know what you are doing."

DANCE LESSONS: For those with hopes of hitting the corral on the weekends, Hoedown's offers free lessons every open night except Fridays. Lessons begin at 8 p.m. except Saturdays, when they start at 7. Tuesday is a mixed crowd learning beginners' two-step. Wednesday is a mixed crowd learning line dance and couple dancing. Thursday is a female crowd learning line dance, and Saturday is a mixed crowd ready for advanced two-step.

TUNES: Early on, Sammy Kershaw's classic "Third Rate Romance" played after Barbara Mandrell's "Sleeping Single in a Double Bed." As the evening went on, the classics were interspersed with Brad Paisley's country pop and Big House's techno country. "But, if I really want to pack the dance floor, I put on my Dolly Parton mix," says longtime DJ Lee Medley of his homemade blend of "9 to 5," "Baby I'm Burning" and "Peace Train."

LIBATIONS: No pretentiousness here; a bottle of beer is the drink of choice and the line never seems long. If you are so inclined, head to the second bar near the back wall. The bartenders peel off their shirts to provide some eye candy during the wait for a cold one.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Open-minded straights are welcome, but the crowd is mostly gay. Other than Thursday night, when the crowd is mostly lesbian, the male/female ratio is about 75/25. The common thread is a love of country music and an appreciation for skilled dancing, whether as a participant or a spectator. Don't be put off by the strip mall location; crossing the threshold is like stepping into a gay-friendly Texas. Arrive early to ensure a legal parking space, because illegally parked cars will be booted. $3.25-$4.75 beers, $3-$7.50 cocktails, $3-plus shots. Open 3 p.m. to 3 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 931 Monroe Drive, in the Midtown Promenade Shopping Center. 404-876-0001, www.hoedownsatlanta.com

— Elizabeth Cobb