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BAGEL BOYS CAFE

11770 Haynes Bridge Road, Alpharetta. 770-569-1009. www.bagelboyscafe.com

PHIL SKINNER/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
PHIL SKINNER / Staff Bagel Boys Cafe has a popular selection of sandwiches — including cashew chicken salad focaccia — along with soups, salads and panini, plus muffins and cinnamon rolls for breakfast. It's open for breakfast at 6 a.m. weekdays.
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Huong Giang's Bo Ne is marinated, thinly sliced steak that's cooked on a tabletop gas stove.
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Crispy falafel is a favorite dish among the Lebanese-style tapas at Mezza in Decatur.
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Early-risers can get the best pick of the bins at 6 a.m. weekdays. They'll also find breakfast sandwiches, muffins and cinnamon rolls. Later in the day, the more popular menu items are a selection of hot and cold sandwiches, soups, salads and panini. 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays; 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays. $

BLACKSTONE CAFE

4685 S. Atlanta Road, Smyrna. 678-239-4473. blackstoneatlanta.com

Owners of the Blackstone Restaurant in Smyrna have met the demand for lunch by taking over the space adjacent to the restaurant on South Atlanta Road. The Blackstone Cafe serves three soups daily, salads, paninis, deli sandwiches and a few vegetarian options. Along with chicken and tuna salad plates, there's a Philly cheese steak, chicken Caesar wrap and mini beef burgers. Sweeten the trip with one of the 12 gelato or sorbet flavors. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $

BONEFISH GRILL

1350 Scenic Highway 124, Snellville. 678-344-8945.

www.bonefishgrill.com

Feeling fishy? No need to get to the coast. Bonefish Grill flies the flavors of the sea to Snellville each day. Go for the spicy Bang Bang shrimp or lump crab cake to start and follow up with one of eight fresh fishes grilled over an oak fire with your choice of saucy finishes. Options for landlubbers are also available. 4-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 4-11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 4-10 p.m. Sundays. $$$

CASA VIEJA

3652 Shallowford Road N.E., Suite E, Doraville. 770-454-8557.

The busy stride at this Colombian favorite makes for a bright and sunny atmosphere, especially at lunch. The tilapia, deep-fried Colombian style, is always a sure bet — crackly-crunchy right down to the tail. It arrives at the table in grand splendor, an absolute marvel of crunchy yum. Meats are tender to the point of insanity and handsomely served with rice, plantains, chicharron (a little too chewy) and a small salad of lettuce, tomato and avocado. Sobrebarriga (flank steak) is slow-cooked like brisket until it shreds with just a nudge of the fork, then grilled with mild seasonings to give it even more flavor. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $

CO'M DUNWOODY VIETNAMESE GRILL FUSION

5486 Chamblee Dunwoody Road, (inside the Shops of Dunwoody) Dunwoody. 770-512-7410. www.comgrill.com

At Co'm Vietnamese Grill Fusion in Dunwoody, the menu is "65 percent different," from his original Co'm at Buford Highway and Clairmont Road, Duc Tran says. The kitchen draws inspiration from various cultures. Flan with a glass of Vietnamese coffee, anyone? Thankfully the goi salad remains a commonality. Thin slivers of mango, papaya and Fuji apple mingle with other ingredients, including twisted fried onions, herbs and Vietnamese pickle. The menu encourages diners to jack it up with meat or seafood. The grilled heartiness of beef tenderloin joins the brisk freshness of cilantro, basil and mint. Integration never tasted so good. Lunch: 11:30-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$

D MORGAN'S

28 W. Main St., Cartersville. 770-383-3535. www.dmorgans.com

Chef Derek Morgan's eponymous restaurant in Cartersville is a welcome respite to the unyielding din of sameness two blocks away on U.S. 41. Hard pine floors, fresh flowers, linens and a sophisticated menu of globally inspired dishes make it so. Morgan uses high-quality ingredients, hires a professional wait staff and cooks in an unusually large kitchen. The wine list isn't deep, but amid typical Cabs and Chardonnays are varietals that pair nicely with what comes from the kitchen. And what comes from the kitchen rarely disappoints. Morgan has a deft hand and a good palate, pairing pretties such as succulent duck confit with a fine display of mashed potatoes and seasonal veggies, or paring down calamari with mixed greens and bright ginger vinaigrette. His style is refined, not manipulated, and shows off his smarts. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Downstairs wine bar open until midnight. $$$

EURASIA BISTRO

129 E. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-687-8822. www.eurasiabistro.net

This quietly elegant neighborhood Asian bistro works on many levels. It can be a business lunch or dinner date destination or a comfy spot to kick back at the bar, order some appetizers, and try some wine. In fact, the imaginative wine list is what makes Eurasia different from most Asian restaurants. The majority of dishes are a fusion of classic French and modern Asian cuisine, presented on dramatically shaped plates and bowls, and artfully garnished. Many regulars prefer to make a meal by sharing several tastes from the menu's long list of appetizers, such as crystal shrimp dumplings, mussels steamed in a curry coconut milk broth, and short ribs with soy syrup and chopped peanuts. Favorite entrees include char-broiled rack of lamb and delicate poached bass. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

FLOWERY BRANCH YACHT CLUB

5510 Church St., Flowery Branch. 770-967-9060. www.fbyachtclub.com

Charm, except for some awkward seating, joins superb cuisine to make this spot worth the drive to Flowery Branch. Even when it's packed, as on a Saturday night, the noise level is low — that is, until the piano player gets started in the small Victorian Queen Anne cottage. Standouts from the kitchen of chef Michael Thorne are crab cakes with remoulade, Angus sirloin with grilled vegetables and thin fries, and macadamia-crusted grouper with pineapple salsa and basmati rice. Desserts are seasonal, including warm peach cobbler, molten chocolate cake and sorbets. They will do pasta and chicken fingers, but it's probably not the best place for the kids. 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. $$$

FROM HAVANA TO U

6300 Highway 9 N., Alpharetta. 770-475-7344. www.fromhavanatou.com

At From Havana to U, the surprises just keep coming. From appetizers like calamari to butterfly shrimp, co-owner Rafael Perez and company rely heavily on the fryer. And that's no complaint. A slightly sweet and very crunchy exterior surrounds incredibly moist chicken wings. Luscious plantain nuggets gush from their crispy shells. The restaurant combines gourmet sensibilities without the attitude, and the result is charming. Occasional specials include paella — its skillet overflows with lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, fish, chicken and pork over yellow rice. Cap things off with flan in an intoxicating pool of cinnamon-flavored maple syrup. Raise a glass of beer or wine, or try some carbonated Cuban-style sweetness. Cans of Materva yerba mate soda and Jupina pineapple soda chill in a cooler behind the counter. Chalk up another surprise. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; Noon-6 p.m. Sundays. $$

GASTHAUS LE CAFE

310 Atlanta Road, Cumming. 770-844-7244. www.gasthauscumming.com

The experience is traditional German featuring bratwurst, beer, sauerkraut and gulasch soup. Austrian-trained chef Reinhold Weger bought the place from its original owners and for the most part stuck with the original recipes, but added some personal touches: More lunchtime sandwiches, eggplant parmesan at dinner and a daily offering of rouladen, to name a few. For starters, try the gulasch soup. At lunch, the bratwurst plate comes with a juicy single link, deep grill grooves intact. The jaeger schnitzel highlights the dinner menu. The thin piece of veal cutlet is steeped in brown gravy with mushrooms and fried onions scattered on top. And don't miss the desserts. Weger's son owns Cake Shoppe in Roswell and provides most of the sweets. Out back, Gasthaus has an intimate biergarten. Beers are sold in either an individual glass or stein, a larger friendship glass for four, a pitcher, or a boot for eight. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays. Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

HUONG GIANG

4300 Buford Highway, Atlanta. 404-929-9838.

Spacious and surprisingly well appointed, Huong Giang anchors a Vietnamese-themed strip center just north of Plaza Fiesta on Buford Highway. And the cooking, with many tantalizing regional dishes from central Vietnam, makes this the kind of restaurant that's a pleasure to explore with a group or over repeated visits. Something like a Vietnamese tamale, Banh Bot Loc Goi is a soft tapioca flour tube with shrimp and pork paste, steamed in banana leaves. Big fun for two or more, Bo Ne is marinated, thinly sliced steak you cook on a tabletop gas stove. Hot pots can be ordered with meat or seafood. And for the less adventurous, there are lots of noodle and rice dishes, as well as salads and spring rolls. 10 a.m.-midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. $$$

JOLI KOBE BAKERY & BISTRO

5600 Roswell Road N.E., Sandy Springs. 404-843-3257. www.jolikobe.com

This bistro, attached to one of the area's best bakeries, provides a tranquil setting for a pleasant respite. Teak-stained woods, glass walls, understated table dressings, earth-tones at the bar and throughout — it feels more like a spa than a restaurant. The modern French dishes have a sound Japanese influence — a delightful, refreshing departure from the oversized, heavy portions found at so many of the city's popular restaurants. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5:30-9 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$

KROG BAR

112 Krog St. N.E., Atlanta. 404-524-1618. www.krogbar.com

In a city where restaurants are big and bigger, Kevin Rathbun and his team deserve props for thinking small. Their new venture, Krog Bar, measures just 750 square feet and serves a limited menu of mostly cold dishes to complement the smart wine list. This food is well sourced but decidedly no big deal. Nice cheeses, cured meats, finger sandwiches and a few other odds and ends are ideal for cocktail hour or when you're waiting for a table at Rathbun's, just across the courtyard. They're not using the "T" word, but this is as close to a traditional Spanish tapas bar as it gets in this town. 4:30 p.m.-midnight Mondays-Saturdays. Will stay open as late as 2 a.m. if there's a crowd. $$

LITTLE GARDENS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

3571 Lawrenceville Highway, Lawrenceville. 770-923-3434. www.littlegardens.com

This facility remains a popular spot for birthdays, anniversaries and larger events such as wedding receptions, but don't disregard it as just a place for special events. The quality of the food, plentiful portions and personal touches — including visits from the chef — make it a destination for those just seeking to turn a not-so-special night into a meal to remember. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays. $$$

LOBBY AT TWELVE

361 17th St., Inside Twelve Hotel at Atlantic Station, Atlanta. 404-961-7370. www.lobbyattwelve.com

The last person anyone expected to go all grown-up is businessman and restaurateur Bob Amick. His venues One Midtown Kitchen, Two Urban Licks and Piebar are eating and drinking playgrounds for the pretty people. To be sure, Lobby has all the slick devices that make it a hip place to hang — plasma TVs as a backdrop, a sweeping bar area that spans the lobby of the hotel, low globe lighting balanced with the embers of a wood-burning pizza oven and an A-list crowd. Yet it is by far the most sophisticated of Amick's adventures so far. Some of the credit must go to chef Nick Oltarsh, whose nonchalant approach to classic American bistro food is what gives Lobby the extra push it needs to jump from frolic to finesse. Breakfast: 6:30-10:30 a.m. Mondays-Fridays; 7:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays (includes brunch hours). Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5:30-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

MEZZA

2751 LaVista Road, Decatur. 404-633-8833.

Well before so many metro restaurants started serving up all sorts small plates, Mezza was delighting its Oak Grove neighbors and regulars from all over Atlanta with a menu of Lebanese-style tapas. The welcoming atmosphere and solid Middle Eastern cooking have kept them coming back. The hot and cold appetizer-size dishes that are great fun to sample and share. Among the favorites: crispy falafel, savory stuffed grape leaves (either vegetarian or beef), lemony tabbouleh, garlic- and tahini-rich hummus, and fried kibbi balls made of cracked wheat and ground beef flavored with onions and pine nuts. There are more than 20 vegan offerings, with lots of bright and spicy fresh veggies. For omnivores, beef shawarma is marinated sliced sirloin on a bed of vermicelli rice, and lamb kabobs come nicely charred. For dessert, try one of the ultra-rich homemade ice cream flavors, such as mocha with caramelized hazelnuts. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Lounge 6:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

PHO DAI LOI

4061 Jonesboro Road, Forest Park. 404-363-2423.

So unassuming and inexpensive that it's sometimes hard to believe how great the food is, Pho Dai Loi has become something of a shrine to the pleasures of basic but flavorful Vietnamese cooking. Crispy Vietnamese-style egg rolls and soft steamed rolls make fine appetizers. But true to its name, pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) is the main attraction here, with rich broth highlighted by aromatic spices and silky, just al dente noodles. Bun (vermicelli) dishes are another good choice, layered in a bowl with plenty of bright, crunchy veggies and herbs, and topped with the likes of grilled pork, marinated shrimp or lemon grass chicken. There's a second location on Buford Highway. 9:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 9:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $

RARE

554 Piedmont Ave., Atlanta. 404-541-0665. www.rareatl.com

From owners of the nearby Harlem Bar, this place has a decidedly stylish-sexy-clubby vibe, while somehow managing to feel friendly and surprisingly cozy. Maybe it's the menu of Southern-style small plates — dubbed "soul tapas" — fixed with homey ingredients, such as black-eyed peas and collards. In the darkened expanse of the back room, you are encouraged to sprawl on platform beds, surrounded by fluffy pillows, and partake of food drink served on trays. The Rare BLT layers tangy fried green tomatoes with crispy bacon and lettuce and pungent blue cheese dressing. Salmon croquettes mix the salty-smoky flavor and crispy texture of a pan-fried salmon patty with a dollop of herbed cream cheese. But a pair of chicken wings perched atop a syrup-drenched Belgian waffle quarter may be the ultimate statement of what's cooking here. 5 p.m.-midnight. Sundays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturdays. $$

RISE 'N DINE

1565 N. Decatur Road, Atlanta. 404-377-4407.

Located in a North Decatur Road storefront, across from Emory University, this retro cafe exudes a vibe that's cool but feels comfortably lived-in. The reasonably-priced menu offers both breakfast and lunch all day, every day. But breakfast is easily the star of the show here, with fluffy biscuits, applewood-smoked bacon, and thin and delicious crepelike omelets. The hefty but airy sweet potato and buttermilk pancakes are crowd pleasers. At lunch, look for the "Thanksgiving" sandwich, loaded with freshly-carved turkey and whole cranberry sauce or the Scandinavian-style egg salad, flavored with fresh dill and capers. There's also an espresso bar. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. $

ROLLING BONES PREMIUM PIT BBQ

377 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-222-2324. www.rollingbonesbbq.com

The days are fading when barbecue joints were, well ... joints. Rolling Bones' Edward Hopper-ish setting is the perfect mix of chrome and cute, with an outdoor patio surrounded by overgrown rosemary shrubs. But inside is the real thing: Watch at the counter as the cooks chop up a beef brisket, with plenty of spicy, black surface meat and well-rendered fat, or the meaty spareribs rubbed with a lip-tingling mixture of red and black pepper. Chicken seems downright preternatural — super-moist meat and crispy skin. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 12:30-8 p.m. Sundays. $$

SAWICKI'S MEAT, SEAFOOD & MORE

250 West Ponce De Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-377-0992. www.sawickismeatseafoodandmore.com

This fancy butcher shop and fish market features bright deli cases and shelves stocked with fresh produce and gourmet goodies. But there are also tasty sandwiches and prepared foods that can be eaten on premise, if you're lucky enough to grab one of the six seats at the counter facing the front window. Hot and cold choices range from a veggie sandwich to a meatball sub with fresh mozzarella, and a Cuban with roasted pork loin. You can build your own salad or opt for the Mediterranean-style hummus with tomatoes, cucumbers and olives on a bed of mixed greens. And don't miss the cookies, cupcakes, cinnamon rolls, and pies. 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays; noon-5 p.m. Sundays. $

SO KONG DONG

5280 Buford Highway, Doraville. 678-205-0555.

This little restaurant offers bowls of more than just soup: Solace and comfort are on the menu as well. Tucked away in a strip mall off Buford Highway, So Kong Dong has something that every great tofu house should have: strong support from the local Korean community. Korea's version of chicken soup for the soul, called soon dubu, comes to the table like a volcanic eruption of peppery vegetables mixed with the silkiest tofu imaginable. So Kong Dong also serves piping hot tofu bibimbap in a stone pot (a dolsot) lined with rice, then layered with minced beef, tofu, and a nest of enoki mushrooms, shredded carrots, spinach, squash, bean sprouts and of course, a raw egg. Stir it under with a chopstick to cook the egg, mix in the spicy chili paste and dig in. In it you will find a crisp, savory freshness that can only be surpassed by the chunks of scorched rice you will find at the bottom. 9:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 9:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. $

THUMBS UP DINER

573 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-223-0690. www.thumbsupdiner.com

No one in Atlanta does the diner gig the way these guys do: The curved counter, the deco block glass in the windows, the intown address, the empty pastry case, the darned good grub. The waitresses are the sweetest on the planet, and they bring food fast and hot. A diverse clientele bridges the gap between locals in search of a good meal that's priced right and the yuppie crowd's cravings for somethin' good to eat in a groovy setting. Breakfast is served throughout the day, with whole wheat biscuits and homemade berry preserves, stone-ground grits and "the Heap" of fried potatoes. The omelets are fluffy but with backbone, cooked to order; the heaping slices of French toast will change your view of religion and possibly politics. Lunch is also worthy, whether you opt for eggs and bacon, a stuffed spud or a chopped salad. Breakfast and lunch: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. 8 a.m.-4 p.m., Saturdays-Sundays. Breakfast is all day. $

TWO URBAN LICKS

820 Ralph McGill Blvd.,

Suite B, Atlanta. 404-522-4622. www.twourbanlicks.com

Executive chef Scott Serpas — formerly of Sia's and Mitra — has made the kitchen of this Bob Amick venture all his own, concentrating on a fun list of appetizers and entrees and a fine showing of desserts. Strong drinks and a funky wines-from-the-barrel program are alluring draws, too. But most folks come for the scenery, whether its a view of the 14-foot rotating rotisserie in the middle of the dining room or the gorgeous guy (or gal) at the bar. 5:30 p.m.-midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. $$$

VATICA INDIAN VEGETARIAN CUISINE

1475 Terrell Mill Road S.E., Marietta. 770-955-3740. www.vaticavegetarian.com

A platter of food centered on rice and bread surrounded by savory pots of goodies to dip and sup: This is thali, and Vatica serves it up by the loving spoonful. Owner Dhirajlal Vallabh is the ultimate jokester, having fun with the customers up front while his wife, Sadhana, does most of the cooking. Don't look for a menu — one day it may be green peppers and potatoes with dal and yogurt curry; the next may be okra and eggplant. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. $

WISTERIA

471 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-525-3363. www.wisteria-atlanta.com

Chef Jason Hill's funky take on contemporary Southern has turned this Inman Park fave into a real destination. His signature black-eyed pea hummus and offerings such as fried catfish over green tomato and eggplant with crawfish ragout show off Hill's range. But a homey dish like the iron-skillet chicken with greens is a big ol' plate that aims to please, and usually does. Things get downright sophisticated with a Vidalia onion tart — a good meal on its own at the bar with a glass of white wine from a list that is friendly and reasonable. The atmosphere is a comforting mix of brick warehouse chic and intown loft, with great art on the walls and a bar that's easy to belly up to for a drink or dinner. 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

Reviews by H.M. Cauley, Meridith Ford, Lori Johnston, John Kessler, Bob Townsend and Jon Waterhouse.

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)