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THERE ARE A BAZILLION Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese restaurants in metro Atlanta, most serving what could safely be called "authentic" dishes. PanAsia Bistro in Roswell isn't necessarily one of them. But that's just what makes this mom-and-pop place such a surprising delight.

FRESH TWISTS: Though the menu is subtitled "Flavors of Asia Southern Style," chef/owner Bill Schroeder doesn't do cutesy fusion. Rather, his solid cooking features fresh Asian ingredients prepared with some down-home twists. Schroeder's wife, Shi Yi, is from China. When she's not taste-testing his recipes, she cheerfully watches over the front of the restaurant, offering helpful advice on what to order and even what condiments to try. "Hot sauce is so good with Chinese noodles," Shi Yi told us during a recent visit. And she was so right.

BILLY SMITH II/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
The sweet and sour chicken entree along with the salmon sweet potato cake appetizer give the Asian menu a down-home flavor.
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BISTRO BRIGHT: Located in a small storefront in the Market Center shopping center, PanAsia Bistro has a look that matches the bright and homey flavors of the food. Painted in shades of deep green and sponged-yellow divided by a white chair rail, the cozy dining room is decorated with framed watercolors and shelves displaying dolls and Vietnamese lacquer ware. Tables are pale butcher block-style, with matching comfy-cushioned chairs.

ASIAN SOUTHERN: The top of the menu features several tried-and-true Asian appetizers, including fried egg rolls, Chinese pork dumplings and Tom Yum soup. Very good Vietnamese spring rolls come in twos, with a spongy, soft wrapper surrounding crispy greens, herbs, noodles, shrimp and a welcome bit of tender pork; served with a light, sweet peanut sauce. But Schroeder's salmon sweet potato cake is probably the best example of his subtle cooking style; it combines fresh salmon with puréed Japanese sweet potatoes in a flat griddle cake that's perfectly browned and crunchy outside and creamy smooth inside. It's plated with a delicious orange-coconut cream sauce, spiked with ginger and green onions.

SOUTHERN ASIAN: The rest of the menu has several entree-size salads and close to a dozen imaginative rice or noodle dishes that can be ordered with shrimp, chicken, beef or pork. We enjoyed the thin Chinese egg noodles with "Buford Highway vegetables"; it's a combo of Asian greens and mushrooms lightly stir-fried in a spicy brown sauce with ginger and garlic that has a rich, woody essence. Schroeder's take on Chinese sweet and sour dishes is intensified with Cajun spices and a sour orange honey sauce. We ordered it with chicken, and the tender nuggets were deftly batter-fried, but it would surely be just as good with shrimp. Plated with sauteed greens, a scoop of fluffy white rice and a sweet potato cake, it's a bargain at $8.95, and an even better one as a $6.95 lunch special.

NEXT TIME: The PanAsian Monk's salad, with papaya, mango, jicama, red peppers, green onions, tofu croutons and mango mustard dressing, sounds intriguing. And so do the sandwich wraps, served with fries or Napa slaw. There's also a small selection of Asian beers, California wines and fun bubble teas.