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It isn't exactly Katz's or Barney Greengrass. But with everything from challah bread and matzo ball soup to chopped liver and bologna sandwiches, Goldbergs Bagel Company does a very good impersonation of a New York Jewish deli. Even if the shiny surroundings and cheery, uniformed servers are quintessentially Atlanta.

DELI-BAKERY-RESTAURANT: Opened by the Goldberg family in 1972, and sold to Howard Aaron in 1993, the Goldbergs deli has branched out to several locations. The expanded Roswell Road space features a deli and bakery as well as a sit-down restaurant serving breakfast and lunch. Peak hours and weekends draw crowds, but if you're in a hurry, take-out is an easy option.

Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
The Brooklyn Reuben is a mouth-watering hodgepodge of lean corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing.
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SANDWICH SCENE: The 1972 signature sandwich is a deli meat stuffed po' boy on a hoagie roll. You can build your own with brisket, pastrami, turkey, salami and even kosher tongue, and choose from an assortment of freshly baked breads and rolls. Specialty sandwiches include the "Georgia Reuben" with turkey breast and the "California Reuben" with pastrami. The "Brooklyn Reuben" is a salty/sour/pickley mound of lean corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing on grilled rye bread. All sandwiches come with a choice of coleslaw, potato salad or chips, and a dill pickle. There are also kosher hot dogs, burgers, fries and onion rings.

FISH AND BREAKFAST: Breakfast, served all day, can be a classic fish, cream cheese and bagel platter, with a choice of lox, nova, smoked whitefish, sable or herring. Omelets come with cheese, deli meats or vegetables. Other choices range from simple egg on a bagel to eggs with salami, kippers and onions or corned beef hash. Plus, there's matzoh brei (eggs scrambled with crumbled matzo) or cheese blintzes with a side of apple sauce or sour cream.

TAKE-OUT TIME: For a quick grab, the deli cases hold ready-made po' boys and a variety of salads, soft drinks and juices. But many people stop in to just load up on bagels (80 cents each or $8 for a baker's dozen), available in traditional flavors plus the more unusual sun-dried tomato, chocolate chip or banana nut. Of course, there are flavored cream cheese spreads to schmear on top.