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The transition was over in a matter of minutes. Chef Victor Amato had a crew on hand, waiting for the green light. When it came, they swooped into the Vinings Inn and took up residence as the new staff.

"I was at the River Room, just waiting to open," said Amato, speaking of the other operation under the same ownership. "We even had all the food ready to go. We just waited for the official changeover."

Phil Skinner/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
A face-lift for the Vinings Inn included white tablecloth seating and a menu with updated Southern dishes. -------------------- Shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage is on offer from Chef Vic Amato.
Phil Skinner/ajc staff (ENLARGE)
Shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage is on offer from Chef Vic Amato.
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• Where: 3011 Paces Mill Road, Atlanta, 30339, 770-438-2282 • Signature dish: peach barbecued prawns • Entree prices: $24-$32 • Hours: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; dinner, 5:30 - 10 p.m.; 5:30 - 10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturday • Web site: www.viningsinn.com

The effective date was Aug. 6, and though most diners noticed an instant change in the menu, the alterations to the physical space have been a bit slower in coming. But they're now almost complete, with the exception of several behind-the-scenes projects in the kitchen, storage areas and basement.

There's nothing new on the more than 150-year-old exterior: that familiar stone and frame facade that sits almost in the main traffic lane of Paces Mill Road is still intact. But there's been a good deal of sprucing up inside, with fresh coats of pale yellow paint, new draperies, a banquette seat that runs down an entire wall of the main dining room and white tablecloth-topped seating on the side porch. There's also some communal seating in place, new artwork and a massive display of china platters overlooking the dining room.

Amato has changed the menu twice since he moved into the kitchen. He's committed to keeping the selection seasonal and fresh through all sections of the menu.

"The one thing we did keep was the peach barbecued prawns," said Amato. "It's the one thing people kept asking for. Other than that, everything else is new."

Amato is set on sticking with classic Southern cuisine, but giving it a bit of an update. Start off with traditional fried green tomatoes, tweaked with a layer of goat cheese under the light breading crust. Duck confit spring rolls are served with two sweet, fresh chutneys. A thick seared pork chop is prepped in bourbon and served up with Brussels sprouts and baby carrots in a maple onion jus. Amato has his own dish as well — chicken Vic-a-Torre is a plate of herbed chicken cutlets served with pappardelle pasta, mushrooms, peppers, onions and tomatoes.

Enthusiasts of Southern cooking will go for the pecan-crusted trout, bacon-wrapped scallops, the smoked trout dip starter, or a big bowl of the thick split pea soup with pieces of country ham for spice. And, of course, there are the peach barbecued prawns, paired with grits, sauteed onions and peppers and a lemon beurre blanc sauce.

Bread pudding, cobblers and brownies are all made in-house. Amato also mixes up the sweet selection with items that strike his fancy, such as a sampling of white chocolate fudge squares.

One thing that hasn't changed is the Inn's attic bar. Follow the turning, creaky staircase to the second floor where a cozy bar sits under the low-hung ceiling. If the weather cooperates, take your martini onto the deck overlooking the area's busiest intersection. You can order appetizers, sandwiches and burgers if you're in a more casual mood. There's also a complete selection of mixed drinks and wines, with many available by the glass.

The bar is also home to live entertainment Tuesday through Saturday evenings.