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THE BREW PUB — probably the most conspicuous contemporary American expression of the link between beer and food — has its roots in the brewery inns of colonial times.

Bert Grant opened the nation's first post-Prohibition brew pub in Yakima, Wash., in 1982. Others soon followed. Among them, Dan Gordon and Dean Biersch began operating their Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant in Palo Alto, Calif., in 1988. The original concept of brewer Gordon and restaurateur Biersch lives on in franchises that stretch from Los Angeles and Las Vegas to Washington, D.C., and Disney World.

Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
The Gordon Burger with garlic fries round out a hearty pub experience at Midtown's Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant, where the signature Märzen and other German-style beers pour.
Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
The tomato and basil pizza with Brown Ale are a match made in brew pub heaven at Rock Bottom in Buckhead. The restaurant brews a full range of various ales and lagers.
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The two Atlanta locations, Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant in Midtown and Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery in Buckhead, are on opposite ends of Peachtree. And while they serve a different selection of beer styles, they have comparable menus and a similar, neighborhood-bar-on-steroids ambience.

The fancied-up pub grub, which includes pizzas and burgers, as well as pretty expensive seafood and steaks, can be hit-or-miss. But the crowds that gather after work and into the evening are there for the suds, lively bar and singles scene. Here, you can shoot pool or chat up a date, and grab a Cosmo and an Asian chicken salad as easily as a barbecue pork slider and a freshly brewed lager.

Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant

848 Peachtree St. N.E., 404-870-0805

Gordon Biersch sits between Sixth and Seventh streets in the heart of Midtown. The grain silo outside is the only clue that something different might be going on inside the modern free-standing building. The California craftsman décor of the downstairs bar and dining room blends surprisingly well with the steel tanks and industrial look of the brewing operation — which is neatly housed on the upper mezzanine level, along with another bar, a billiard parlor and a banquet room.

As at every Gordon Biersch location, the beers are all classic German-style lagers, notable because they are more difficult and expensive to make than the ales typically produced at many brew pubs. The flagship beer is Märzen, a smooth, sweetish, amber-colored style also known as Oktoberfest. It's a particularly good match for the thin crust pizzas. There's also a crisp, golden Pilsner and a dark, malty Dunkles. Among the seasonal beers, look for the strong, dark Winter Bock, which goes on tap this week.

Besides the pizzas and substantial burgers, best bets include the wedge salad, a crunchy slice of iceberg lettuce covered with blue cheese and bacon, and the signature garlic fries. As described on the menu, the New York strip steak is, indeed, "hearty." But at $21.95, it comes at a hearty price as well.

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 4-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 4 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards
RESERVATIONS: Accepted
CHILDREN: Kid's menu
PARKING: $3 valet parking
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
TAKEOUT: Yes
BEER: German-style lagers, including Märzen, Pilsner, Dunkles and Winter Bock (on tap this week)
FOOD: Best bets include wedge salad, burgers, garlic fries, pizza

Rock Bottom Brewery Restaurant

3242 Peachtree Road N.W., 404-264-0253

Rock Bottom occupies a rather inconspicuous spot in Buckhead, set back from Peachtree Road, just south of Piedmont, at the ground level of a three-story parking garage. But inside, the space is as cavernous as a basketball arena, with a long bar, booths and high-top tables, all with a view of the shiny beer tanks. Close to the bar, there are rows of vintage billiard tables. And the adjacent dining room features arts and crafts décor with a Southwestern twist.

Unlike Gordon Biersch, Rock Bottom brews a full range of beer styles, from light American lagers to pale ales. The Sweet Magnolia brown ale and Iron Horse sweet stout are both solid choices. For aficionados, special "cask" beers are often served up English style, meaning warmer and less carbonated. "The Loop" India Pale Ale makes a good pairing with the spicy pepperoni pizza. And among seasonal offerings, look for the dark Winter Porter, which will be tapped at a special tasting party at 5:30 tonight. Its roasted coffee notes make it a great dessert beer.

Chicken flautas, made with smoked chicken and tomatillos, chicken enchiladas and nachos are some of the Southwestern-style menu favorites. Several steak combos, grilled salmon and dry-rubbed ribs basted with brown ale barbecue sauce are on the pricier side of the menu.

HOURS: Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 4-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Sundays
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards
RESERVATIONS: Accepted
CHILDREN: Kid's menu
PARKING: In lot and deck
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
TAKEOUT: Yes
BEER: Craft ales, including Sweet Magnolia brown ale, Iron Horse sweet stout, "The Loop" India Pale Ale and Winter Porter (on tap now)
FOOD: Best bets include the wedge salad, chicken flautas, burgers and pizza