Sort of a hybrid of a Houston’s, a sports bar, and a late-night lounge, Marlow’s Tavern is the creation of chef and co-owner John Metz, who also came up with stylish Roswell area siblings, Aqua Blue and Hi Life Kitchen & Cocktails. Marlow’s has grown to include suburban locations in Alpharetta, Vinings, Kennesaw and Northlake. The Midtown Marlow’s — located on West Peachtree Street in a condo building that also houses Dressed, Steel and several retail shops — features a sophisticated city setting.

Metz’s menu of seasonally changing modern bar food and comforting entrees seems calculated to appeal to intown neighborhood workers and dwellers alike.

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PHIL SKINNER/pskinner@ajc.com

The hand-cut tavern fries at Marlow’s are crisp and fresh.

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BLACK AND WHITE STYLE: Dark walls, a sprawling collection of black-framed black and white photos and flat-screen TVs, black leather booths and high-top tables all reinforce the notion that Marlow’s is as much a watering hole as an eating establishment. So does the long, imposing bar that dominates one side of the space. Especially at night, it’s often the focus of the action, as youngish professionals crowd in, many of the men sporting ball caps and golf shirts and the women wearing fashionable dresses. There’s live music after 10 p.m. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

CLASSIC BURGERS: Marlow’s does a big business in what the menu calls “Big Bar Sandwiches,” which include the likes of fish tacos on tortillas, grilled chicken on toasted focaccia, and chimichurri cheesesteak on a Cuban roll. The well-named “Classic Tavern Burgers” are always a good bet. On a recent evening, a plump cheddar cheeseburger came nicely seasoned and grilled, with a pleasing aroma and flavor of charcoal, perched on a fluffy sesame bun, and topped with a bright mix of shredded romaine, slivered red onion and sliced tomato. The accompanying stack of crispy french fries were as good as McDonald’s, when McDonald’s were good.

ENTREES AND BRUNCH: At $17.99, Southwestern Grouper isn’t exactly pub grub, but the portion is generous enough to share, and the presentation is surprisingly elegant. A pair of filets are pan seared and served in a bowl atop creamy jalapeno grits, with spicy tomato broth, corn and black bean salsa, and tortilla strips. Other entrees range from grilled chicken with feta salad ($12.99) to a cowboy ribeye with gorgonzola potato gratin ($29.99). Beef tenderloin steak and eggs with Béarnaise sauce is served all day every day. The kitchen stays open until closing every night. On Sundays there’s a breakfast buffet.

AT THE BAR: A pomegranate and cucumber melon martini are among the signature libations, along with a reasonably priced selection of wines by the glass and bottle. The draft beer list has all the usual suspects — Bass, Guinness, Sweetwater 420. But the bottle list includes a few surprises, with Great Divide Denver Pale Ale and Heavy Seas Loose Cannon IPA.

• HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Sundays-Wednesdays; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Brunch buffet: 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. Sundays.
• CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard; Visa; American Express.
• PRICES: Starters and snacks, $3.99-$9.99; burgers and sandwiches, $7.99-$12.99; entrees, $12.99-$29.99.
• RESERVATIONS: For large parties
• RECOMMENDED DISHES: Burgers, fries, southwestern grouper
• PARKING: Street and lot parking
• WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
• SMOKING POLICY: After 10 p.m.
• NOISE LEVEL: Moderate-loud
• TAKEOUT: Yes
• VERDICT: Marlow’s in Midtown works its city setting with an appealing menu of modern bar food.