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Great french fries never go out of style
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Southern cuisine can get as gussied up as it wants, and goat cheese foam, et al., will come and go. It still amazes me to see molten lava hot chocolate goo cakes on menus.
But nothing — nothing — can ever trump a great french fry. They never go out of style.
LOUIE FAVORITE/lfavorite@ajc.com
Eclipse di Luna’s Spanish version of french fries is chunky but crispy at the edges and served with a hot sauce.
Porter Beer Bar 
1156 Euclid Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-223-0393, www.theporterbeerbar.com
In addition to making a mean hush puppy, chef-owner Nick Rutherford’s frying talents definitely extend to all things French, particularly potatoes. Cut thin but not in that shoestring sort of way, his fries are light and luscious at the same time.
Shaun’s 
1029 Edgewood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-577-4358, www.shaunsrestaurant.com
It’s not often that a french fry can actually be termed haute cuisine, but chef Shaun Doty fries his perfectly cut pommes de terre in duck fat — “graisse de canard.” Oh my.
Steak-n-Shake, not rated
Various Atlanta locations, www.steaknshake.com
I’ve never been a fan of shoestring fries, but this lovable burger chain has converted me: thin, crisp, perfectly fried and never soggy.
Eclipse di Luna 
764 Miami Circle, Atlanta, 404-846-0449, www.eclipsediluna.com
Spain has a slightly different version of the french fry: big chunks of fried potatoes, crispy around the edges, then served with aioli and hot sauce. At Miami Circle’s Eclipse di Luna, that’s exactly what you’ll get in the form of patatas bravas with romesco sauce, where the potatoes are half-boiled, then fried — three times. It’s the charm.
Kyma
3085 Piedmont Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-262-0702, www.buckheadrestaurants.com
Sure, everyone brags about Kyma’s fresh fish. But let’s keep it real: No one should ever dine here without indulging in the crisply seasoned Greek potatoes, sprinkled with a dusting of tangy kefalotiri cheese.
