IN SEARCH OF
Raw or fried, oysters worth checking out in any month
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Monday, April 13, 2009
Forget that nonsense about eating raw oysters only in months that contain an “R.” Shellfish farming has made that old adage obsolete. And though we’re land-locked, Atlanta has plenty of places at which you can partake. But for those of you who are still skeptical, two of these spots offer up the globby little (or big, depending on the kind) goodies fried.
Becky Stein/AJC special
At Serpas True Food, flash-fried oysters are served with pickled jalapeno peppers and chayote squash, also known as merlitons.
SERPAS TRUE FOOD 
659 Auburn Ave., Atlanta. 404-688-0040, www.serpasrestaurant.com
Scott Serpas is no stranger to fried oysters: in his deft hands, these orbs become edible art. Not too big, not too small, perfectly fried until the oyster plumps and the edges crisp, Serpas serves them with shavings of chayote squash and pickled jalapeno peppers with an accompanying bit of creamy, spicy sauce that’s part tartar, part remoulade.
OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM 
1100 Peachtree St. N.W., Atlanta. 404-475-2277, www.theoceanaire.com
This upscale chain’s raw bar is its strongest offering, with towers of seafood served in true French style. Sit at the bar and sip wine with a dozen raw oysters, some crackers and horseradish-laden cocktail sauce. It’ll cure what ails you.
FRENCH AMERICAN BRASSERIE 
30 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd., Suite 125, Atlanta. 404-266-1440. www.fabatlanta.com
Few things in life can match the allure of sitting on FAB’s rooftop, sipping champagne and slurping back a dozen (or two) beausoleil oysters — refined, with just a hint of brine, and never too large to handle. These are the perfect little beauties for oysters newbies, too. Enjoy them with a mignonette rather than cocktail sauce.
MILTON’S CUISINE & COCKTAILS
780 Mayfield Road, Alpharetta. 770-817-0161, www.miltons-atl.com
Check for the full review of Milton’s, and waste no time ordering up a batch of chef Boyd A. Rose’s crispy fried oysters, pretty and plump, with a lemon-laced hollandaise drizzled to and fro across the plate.
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