Any contemporary taqueria opening for business in Atlanta should be prepared for the inevitable comparisons to Taqueria del Sol — the wildly popular South-by-Southwest joint that’s morphed into four locations, including one in Athens.

So far, the food at Verde, a Mexican-American cantina that revealed itself in Brookhaven in April, isn’t on par with del Sol. But this happy, shiny spot is giving neighborhood people a lot to like, with an a la carte menu featuring tacos priced in the $3.25-$3.75 range.

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Becky Stein/AJC special

Three Tacos: one short rib braised beef with fresh pico de gallo and cilantro sour cream, one fried calamari dusted in cornmeal with fried jalapenos, fresh coleslaw and jalapeno ranch, one fried chicken with applewood smoked bacon, field greens, tomato and chipotle aioli.

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And those who grouse about the long lines and attitude at you-know-where will certainly enjoy the friendly (if sometimes scattered) table service here.

Green-on-blue

Nestled in the back of a newish mixed-use development on Dresden Drive, the space has the sparkling feel of a franchise in the making.

Bright greens and blues mix with Ikea-style furnishings, tall windows and polished concrete floors to create an atmosphere that’s airy and angular.

Booths and tables and a curving bar define the twin dining areas, and outside there’s a patio with umbrella tables that’s usually packed.

Mix-and-match

Tacos, folded with flour tortillas, run the gamut from pretty darn good to things that make you scratch your head a bit.

In the former category, go for anything breaded and fried. That includes tilapia, with coleslaw and jalapeño; Southern-style fried chicken, with applewood bacon, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayo; and surprisingly tasty cornmeal-dusted calamari with fried jalapeño. There’s also a Buffalo version of the chicken, tossed with wing sauce and topped with diced celery and ranch dressing.

Two of the tacos that sound really good on paper come out bafflingly bland. The decent pulled pork is overwhelmed by too much sweetish barbecue sauce and slaw, and the short rib taco is a mushy smear under a mix of pico de gallo and sour cream.

Chips and red salsa ($1.25) are as generic as something you’d buy at the grocery store. And the guacamole, though obviously fresh, needs to be kicked up with something more than avocados if it’s going to be worth the $6.25 price tag. But at $1.25, simple sides, including Mexican rice and refried pinto or black beans, are a bargain. And two fresh salads, available in whole or half-sizes, are a nice touch.

The bar serves up the usual Mexican lagers, some reasonably priced wines and a decent house margarita ($6.25), along with a full complement of spirits and cocktails.

Signature dish: A la carte tacos
Entree prices: $3.25-$7 (tacos and salads)
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 12:30-9 p.m. Sundays
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.verdetacos.com