The new MJ Korean Tacos & Wings actually offers a bit more in the way of food and atmosphere than you might expect. Far from a hole-in-the-wall fry shop, the kicky Korean-meets-Mexican concept serves up nachos and quesadillas along with mini fried dumplings and rice bowls in an atmosphere that could be called faux fancy.

The look: Located in the same shopping center as Honey Pig and several other Korean restaurants, the tidy storefront space evokes fine dining with dangling art lights, dark wood flooring and paneling, columns and stone work. A saying inscribed below a flat screen TV on the back wall advises, “Indulge. Life is sweet.”

The scene: Early one recent evening, loud pop music boomed as a peppy server attended to the sparse crowd scattered around the dining room. Several couples occupied four tops near a row of windows, while some parents parked a large group of children at a table with a long banquette.

The menu: Regular tacos ($2.50-$2.99) served on flour or corn tortillas with lettuce and sweet vinaigrette slaw include Korean-style steak bulgogi, deep-fried mashed potatoes, and deep-fried tofu. “AFC” Asian fried chicken and Hawaiian fried fish with pineapple salsa can be found among the specialty taco creations ($3.50). Korean steak, pork or chicken “sloppy sandwiches” with egg ($7.99-$8.99) are served on a toasted bun with fries. Crispy wings with celery and blue cheese or ranch come in all sorts of flavors, from sweet to habanero hot.

The drinks: A section of the current food menu announces that beers and wines are coming soon. In the meantime, you can sip soft drinks ($1), sweet iced tea ($2.50) or bottled water ($1). And a separate menu offers real fruit yogurt smoothies ($3.50/$4.50), such as Jazzy Pineapple with strawberry and banana.

The extras: During dinner hours on Tuesdays, the special is one free regular taco per diner. Look for more daily specials, soon.