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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Tuesday, Jan. 8, 2013

First Look: SeaBass Kitchen, Sandy Springs

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Seabass Kitchen photo
Becky Stein
Seabass Kitchen

By Bob Townsend

SeaBass Kitchen in Sandy Springs opened last week in the Roswell Road space formerly occupied by Rumi’s Kitchen. True to its name, the fine dining restaurant focuses on seafood, but also serves appetizers and beef, pork and poultry entrees, all prepared with Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors.

The look: A big blue and white sign with a leaping fish logo above a blue and white awning announces the entrance. Beyond the door, the color scheme continues with understated decor, atmospheric lighting, and tile murals on the walls. A small front corner bar and a long, narrow dining room offer cozy seating options.

The scene: One recent evening, the valet service was busy parking cars, as a well-dressed dinner crowd steadily arrived. Inside, there was a convivial buzz of Rumi’s regulars and curious customers from the neighborhood. But one women seemed confused, then disappointed when she found out there were no drinks at the bar, yet, finally opting to go elsewhere.

The menu: Grilled Mediterranean-style whole fish ($28), served with sea salt, oregano, extra virgin olive oil and lemon is the star of the seafood menu. There’s also grilled prawns ($20), seared salmon ($21), and sauteed sea bass ($28). Other entrees include a bone-in ribeye steak ($30), grilled pork loin ($19) and braised lamb shank ($19). Starters include a chef’s daily flatbread ($6), assorted dips ($8), chargrilled octopus ($9), and sauteed mussels ($9). Among the steakhouse-style sides ($4) look for fried potatoes with oregano, caramelized onion rice pilaf, and asparagus with lemon and olive oil.

The drinks: The full bar is now open, with an assortment of liquor, 10 wines by the the glass and 40 more by the bottle, and imported and domestic beers.

The extras: Beginning Jan. 14, SeaBass will be open from 11 a.m. daily, serving lunch dishes, including selections from the seafood menu.


Dining Out

SeaBass Kitchen, Sandy Springs

Dinner: 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Lunch beginning Jan. 14.

Appetizers, $5-$9; soups and salads $5-$7; seafood and entrees $17-$30; sides, $4.

6152 Roswell Road NE, 404-705-8880, www.seabasskitchen.com

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