Seven Hens, the new concept in North Decatur Plaza, comes off as a trial balloon for a fast-casual restaurant franchise. The main attraction is a basic battered and fried schnitzel-style chicken cutlet, made-to-order with six "country" flavors and four "style" choices, plus "finishing touch" toppings, sauces and cheese.

The look: Situated in a storefront down the way from Wuxtry and Rainbow Grocery, the euro-meets-homey design recalls Ikea. In place of art, there's advertising as user-friendly information. Banners with ordering instructions hang above the open kithen. In the cozy dining room, posters illustrate the international theme of the menu: The French schnitzel is "the closest thing to Paris you'll experience for under $10!"

The scene: One afternoon, there was a busy buzz at the order counter, as a line quickly formed, then slowed to a stop when several first time customers pondered what sort of schnitzel to try. Behind the counter, the effusive chef in charge offered tastes and suggestions, touting the spicy chili aoli as a secret dipping sauce for the French fries.

The menu: So far, the chef said, the French, with seasoned bread crumbs, lettuce, tomato, onion, Dijon mustard and olive tapenade aioli, is the bestseller. Like the American, Mexican, Italian, Chinese, Indian or (build-your-own) Traveler, it can be made as a salad ($6.99), baguette ($7.49) or wrap ($7.49) or served naked on a platter ($7.99) with two sides. Besides fries ($2.25), other sides include salad ($2.25) and chips ($1.49).

The drinks: Look for a self-serve selection of Coca-Cola fountain drinks and iced tea ($1.69) and a cooler stocked with bottled drinks and water.

The extras: Other menu options include dark meat chicken, grilled chicken and crispy tofu. For dessert, check out the King of Pops case with frozen favorites, such as Chocolate Sea Salt and Strawberry Lemonade.

Dining Out

Seven Hens, Decatur

11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays.

Schnitzel salad, sandwich, platter, $6.99-$7.99; sides, $1.49-2.25.

2140 North Decatur Road, Decatur, 404-633-3000, www.7hens.com