In its heyday, Watershed in Decatur was one of Atlanta's hottest restaurants. Chef Scott Peacock and owner Emily Saliers of the Indigo Girls transformed an old gas station into a casual-chic spot where Southern cooking was celebrated — and Tuesday night's fried chicken was the equivalent of the Holeman & Finch burger.

After Peacock moved on in 2010, chef Joe Truex took over for a short stint before Watershed closed in 2011. Now, Watershed on Peachtree in Brookwood Hills brings back Truex as executive chef, adds Julia LeRoy as chef de cuisine, and showcases creative takes on traditional Southern dishes at lunch and dinner.

The look: Located on the main floor of the Brookwood luxury high-rise, the airy design by Smith Hanes employs natural wood and contrasts a wide-open bar area with a more secluded dining room. The covered front patio looks out on Peachtree Street.

The scene: Dinner service has been crazy-busy since Watershed's late May opening, Truex recently confirmed. But one hot Friday afternoon, a relaxed crowd was scattered around the bar and dining room, sipping white wine and trying out lunch offerings such as the Crabby Shrimp burger and fries ($16.25).

The menu: Truex's Louisiana heritage, classic training and Asian influences come into play in a medley of bar snacks, starters and mains. Pork belly lettuce wraps ($10.50) are served with spicy slaw, cane syrup and Dijon mustard. His namesake Joe's Jambalaya ($25) is a piquant melange of shrimp, sausage and crawfish. A recent veggie plate ($18) included beets, whole baby carrots, fried cauliflower, stewed green beans and tomatoes, fennel salad and pimento cheese cornbread.

The drinks: Saliers and Truex are wine aficionados, and that shows up in a list of boutique, old-world and new-world selections, with many bottles in the $30-$60 range. Craft cocktails include the Organic Cuke ($11), a tall refresher with Journeyman Organic Vodka, Uncle Val's Botanical Gin, cucumber, fresh lime and grapefruit juice and housemade bitters.

The extras: Peacock's famous fried chicken recipe, a lard and country ham legacy of his culinary mentor Edna Lewis, is the special on Wednesday nights now. And same as it ever was, expect it to be all gone by 7 p.m. or so. Look for brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays with the likes of chicken-fried poached eggs, wild mushroom fricassee and black truffle gravy.

Dining Out

Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays.

Bar snacks and starters, $3.75-$13.25; mains, $9.50-$44.50; sides, $4-$7.50; desserts, $8.

1820 Peachtree Road N.W., Atlanta. 404-809-3561, watershedrestaurant.com.