Great dining doesn't have to mean reservations at a four-star restaurant — sometimes it can be a quick bite around the corner

Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Athens' The National serves Spanish tapas, including broiled spicy chorizo and caramelized apple.
Bob Andres/AJC (ENLARGE)
Black Creek's fine dining includes roast duck over garlic spinach and pan-fried sweet potato cake.
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
Dynamic Dish's vegetarian fare is seasonal but usually includes soup (butternut squash soup here with lentil walnut pate).
Becky Stein/SPECIAL (ENLARGE)
A charcuterie plate of salami and prosciutto is an example of the approachably French menu at Bistro VG in Roswell.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
Simple Southern creations at Relish in Roswell include tiny hand-crimped fried pies, served here with ice cream.
Phil Skinner/AJC (ENLARGE)
Jerk chicken can be found even in egg rolls at Chef Rob's Caribbean Cafe in Sandy Springs.
Becky Stein/special (ENLARGE)
MF Buckhead has big style and top-notch fish, including a snow crab, asparagus and salmon roll.
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ATLANTA

Babette's Cafe
573 N. Highland Ave. N.E.,
Atlanta. 404-523-9121.
www.babettescafe.com

The moment the threshold of Babette's Café is crossed, the rich aroma of wine, butter and olives spirits you away to a place where crusty French bread can be dipped into the balmy au jus of an exquisite bowl of roast chicken with juicy tomatoes, Niçoise olives, red bliss potatoes and shreds of grilled radicchio. This dish may make you rethink chicken altogether — warm, tender, juicy and inviting, the dish's simpleness is a highlight of the menu, the kind that makes you want to recreate it at home. Most of Babette's menu has this effect. Chef-owner Marla Adams has a way of making things taste like home — a small white plate of lush heirloom tomatoes scattered with hearts of palm in a Balsamic vinaigrette with shallots, olive oil and basil; artichoke-and-olive ravioli in a creamy wine sauce. And few dishes have the overwrought, overworked mark of a lesser chef — Adams manages to leave even something as overindulgent as gaufrette-style potato chips with warm gorgonzola cheese alone. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays; 5-9 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Meridith Ford

Beleza Restaurant and Lounge
905 Juniper Street, Atlanta. 678-904-4582.
www.belezarestaurant.com

Passion is a large element of the unpredictable, and in that sense Beleza delivers on all accounts — the offerings are beautiful, unexpected and — here's the kicker — good for you. Shhhh. Don't tell anyone. Inspired by trips to Brazil, owner Riccardo Ullio (who is Italian) has brought to Juniper Street a small space with a very big personality. At once it offers some of the best — if not the best — culinary cocktails from mixologist Lindy Colburn doubled with a menu inspired by Brazil, but certainly not beholden to it. Dishes with imprudent names such as "forbidden rice" are easy to poke fun at until you taste it: Made with Chinese forbidden black rice, it has a deeply nutty flavor, gorgeous dark purple color and rests on arugula pesto with bits of African squash and cashews. Like everything else on the menu, it's not just another pretty face. Yet Beleza is a groovy Brazilian joint, too, with mod zebra wood tables, drop lighting and a 150-square foot wall with hydroponic tropical plants sprouting from it that in addition to looking like something out of a Roger Vadim film also oxygenates the air. If you listen closely you might hear strains of Stan Getz in the background, crooning out some samba on the saxophone. The most Brazilian thing about Beleza (which means "beauty" in Portuguese) is the bar. The drinks here are fresh, full-flavored masterpieces: an acerola (a tart, tropical tree cherry with a bijillion doses of vitamin C in one serving) mojito sweetened with agave nectar and the usual lime and mint is the best I've had in Atlanta. A Key lime-and-coconut caipirinha made with coconut-infused cachaça needs to be listed with the government as a controlled substance. Batidas (think Latin smoothies) and fresh sodas like passion fruit and pomegranate are alcohol alternatives. OK, so Beleza is a restaurant with exquisite culinary cocktails, flavorful natural foods and a Brazilian accent. With it, Ullio has a real beauty on his hands. 5:30-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5:30 p.m. to midnight Fridays-Saturdays; 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. Lounge open until 2:30 a.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, and midnight Sundays. $$-$$$

— Meridith Ford

Busy Bee Cafe (not rated)
810 Martin Luther King Drive S.W., Atlanta. 404-525-9212.
www.thebusybeecafe.com

Open since 1947, Busy Bee Cafe in Southwest Atlanta is a soul food institution — and with good reason. True to its name, the cozy, family-run place is almost always buzzing with happy, chatty regulars who come in for the signature fried chicken, Southern-style veggies, and super sweet potato pie. Not surprisingly, Busy Bee has the feel of an iconic 1940s diner. In the venerable plate lunch tradition, daily specials change on a weekly schedule. So if you like meatloaf, come on Monday; if you like neck bones, come on Tuesday; and so on. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; noon-7 p.m. Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

Dynamic Dish (not rated)
427 Edgewood Ave., Atlanta. 404-688-4344.

True to its name, this vegetarian restaurant features a dynamic array of elegant and tasty dishes made with seasonal local and organic ingredients. There's usually soup, an entree special, salads and sides, and sometimes a sandwich. There's also a kitschy selection of flea market-style culinary collectables, as well as a small offering of grocery items, including: fair trade coffee; chow chow; fleur de sel; and tubes of spicy mustard. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Thursdays-Fridays; noon-9 p.m. Saturdays; noon-6 p.m. Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

Fleurs De Lis Cafe
57 Forsyth St. N.W., Suite R-8 (Walton Street side of the Healey Building), Atlanta. 404-230-9151.
www.fleursdeliscafe.com

Butcher paper is a good sign of a restaurant's renovation, not closing. Fleurs de Lis recently put up the paper, then promptly took it down a couple of weeks later to unveil a whole new take on things: the formerly French cafe, owned and operated by chef Lenny Robinson, is now all Creole. Robinson, who has been aptly dubbed "grumpy-olicious," was doing all the cooking and his wait staff was, well, a little out to lunch in a non-literal way. It made for unhappy French food. Since the butcher paper came down, the lines have been out the door during peak lunch times. Robinson streamlined the fussiness of his French offerings into standard Creole dishes like seafood gumbo and shrimp etouffee. Go early. He runs out of stuff quickly, and the gumbo is as good as gumbo gets — a clear, spicy broth made with brown roux and lots of seafood and rice (watch for crab and shrimp shells). Everything is now under $10, and it's handed to you in a brown paper bag. You can sit at one of the cozy tables, or take your gigantic roast beef po' boy with gravy to go. Outrageous. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, Dinner: Fridays starting at 7 p.m. by reservation only. $-$$

— Meridith Ford

French American Brasserie
30 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd., Suite 125, Atlanta. 404-266-1440.
www.fabatlanta.com

The good news about FAB (French American Brasserie) is that the food, from chef Kaighn Raymond (who was the chef at the old Brasserie, too) is, on most levels, better than Brasserie Le Coze. The skate wings are crisper, saltier and even bolder than before, scrumptious in their brown butter sauce with fat, Pantellerian capers. The profiteroles are the French answer to a Dairy Queen sundae: plump and filled with nutty pistachio ice cream, drenched in Valrhona chocolate sauce and tons of fun to make a mess with. The sweetbreads are preciously plump, soft-centered works of art delicately placed over whipped potatoes graced with mushrooms and surrounded by a pool of black truffle sauce, topped with micro greens. Watercress salad is fresh, bright and perfect for lunch with an equally good assiette of cheese that includes manchego, pecorino de tartufo and soft, luscious brie de meaux. Couple all this with a completely approachable wine list that also offers deep options. Owner Fabrice Vergez is smart enough to know that there was no way to move downtown into a developing space such as Ivan Allen Plaza and keep the old Brasserie. Not only is the space more than twice the size and a complete departure from the old, the menu includes new additions, such as a large offering of steaks, chops, shellfish and oysters along with Brasserie favorites like the escargot and mushroom soup. Cleverly, there is no stone unturned — the convention crowds will have no trouble finding something to like at FAB, and regulars will find their favorites, too. Too bad the space — large and overstated — lacks the personality the menu begs for. But nevermind. Picking over every little detail here is like complaining that George Clooney is too short. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$-$$$$

— Meridith Ford

JCT Kitchen
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252.
www.jctkitchen.com

Everything about chef-owner Ford Fry's new Southern restaurant, JCT Kitchen, works. He has taken the fundamentals of great French bistro cooking and done with it what all gifted Southern cooks do: Cook great food. The restaurant, located at Westside Urban Market in the spot where first Commune, then Sampan crashed and burned, was created by Smith Hanes Design, with an interior completely transformed: Open to light, the walls are bathed in muted tones of khaki; a farm table in the center of the room is home to a server's station stacked with flatware wrapped in blue-and-white dish towels used as napkins and big glass pitchers of water. The menu boasts of farmstead cooking, and Fry lives up to the interpretation with fried chicken that rivals Watershed, chicken and dumplings, shrimp and grits and desserts worth saving room for. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open later. $$$

— Meridith Ford

Joël
3290 Northside Parkway N.E., Atlanta. 404-233-3500.
www.joelrestaurant.com

Better hurry. The announcement a few weeks ago that chef Joel Antunes will be leaving to become the executive chef of the Oak Room at the newly refurbished Plaza Hotel in NYC is a huge blow to Atlanta's restaurant scene. The restaurant will remain open, with the same name, but without Antunes at the helm. Too bad, since its dramatic closing and subsequent reopening last fall has it sporting a completely different look and ambience. The once stunning, towering space, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, oversized checkered leather banquettes and massive dining area, is gone, cut in half — literally. A new entrance follows a short path beyond a much smaller bar into a dining room that lacks all the glorious sophistication of the old Joël, but possesses something the former never attained: a close-to-full room, giving the restaurant what it needed all along — warmth. Offerings have changed to reflect a more brasserie-like style, though many favorites such as the Andalusian gazpacho, with its silky smooth texture and bright tomato flavor crowned with a drizzle of olive oil and tomato sorbet, are still thankfully available. Ditto the mango pavlova, with its physics-defyingly light meringue shell wrapped around a creme patisserie that is part cloud, part cream, all contrasted with a precious quenelle of tangy mango sorbet. Antunes, who won the James Beard award for best chef Southeast in 2005, is head-and-shoulders above almost any other chef in the city when it comes to precision and execution, especially now that Guenter Seeger has left the proverbial building. Dishes such as the salmon sashimi are proof: buttery pink salmon, beautifully sliced, rests over a small square of rice in a milky dashi broth, with a bright quenelle of mustard ice cream to offset texture, temperature and flavor. One small bite feels like a small, tasty firecracker wrapped in velvet went off in your mouth. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$$-$$$$

— Meridith Ford

MF Buckhead
3280 Peachtree St., Suite 115, Atlanta. 404-841-1192.
www.mfbuckhead.com

MF Buckhead is a shiny gem nestled quietly into the Terminus Building amid a lot of loudly decked out neighbors — Bricktops and Aquaknox are next door; Lola is directly across the pavilion. By contrast, this restaurant is easy to walk past without realizing it's there. It doesn't need to be brash — proof is in the pudding, or in MF's case, fish. Its sister in Midtown, owned and operated by brothers Chris and Alex Kinjo, was the best sushi restaurant in the area — a small, quiet, stylish spot more like what might be found in Japan. But MF Buckhead has done something that no other restaurant in Atlanta has ever done on such a grand scale. Its 8,000 square feet of jaw-dropping space has finally — and successfully — combined the big, bold Buckhead look that Atlanta loves with an absolutely incomparable dining experience. No detail — from the perfect thickness of the wooden chopsticks to the amazing sake list — has been ignored. From the earthy, exotic stoneware (imported from Japan) at the table to the stacked walnut flooring, the restaurant exudes elegance and grace. Movable silk panels separate tables; the sushi bar spans the length of the main dining room and dons 12 to 15 sushi chefs during busy hours. An omakase room (which is scheduled to open this spring) is sequestered upstairs near a quiet lounge. Sake labels are amassed in glass in the bar for a textured, colorful, exotic effect, and Ikebana masters Hiroshi and Elaine Jo's floral masterpieces add even more elegance. Toward the end of the sushi bar is a robata grill — the first in Atlanta — where specialties like King Atlantic prawns and succulent Japanese black cod marinated in a sweet miso sauce until translucent and caramelized are prepared. But it is the sushi bar — and incredibly fresh fish cut perfectly — that is the beating heart of this restaurant. Tucked away at a quiet table is a calming, even romantic, way to while away an afternoon — but the bar is where the action is. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 6-10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 6-11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$$

— Meridith Ford

Orient Express (not rated)
2921 Paces Ferry Road, Atlanta. 770-438-9090.
www.atlantaorientexpress.com

With one glance, Orient Express is one of those places you'd quickly reserve for a night to remember. Sure, the prices and come-as-you-are dress code make it an option for a quickie lunch or relaxed dinner. But its aesthetically on-the-money design, novel concept, wide selection and outstanding Asian cuisine scream special occasion louder than a blaring party horn. The Vinings eatery is split into three factions. On one end is an intimate, romantic Chinese dining room. In the middle sits a sushi bar where chefs work magic in front of a giant bamboo stalks. A Japanese hibachi dining room makes up the other end of the restaurant with several teppanyaki tables brought to sizzling life by subdued spatula-slinging cooks. The exterior is an old train car, and it serves as an elegant and not terribly narrow dining room that connects the opposite ends. For hibachi, Orient Express skips all the by-the-book pageantry you often find. Instead, the food speaks for itself. Smoky fried rice, perfectly prepared filet, fat shrimp and expertly seasoned lobster tail hit the pocket. The sushi bar churns out rolls, sashimi and nigiri in snappy fashion. Dinner-size sushi combinations, some featuring a variety of rolls and nigiri, make fishing easier. Although the Chinese menu is primarily made up of standard fare popular at most American Chinese restaurants, several specials highlight the massive selection. Fans of time-honored favorites like egg foo yong, lo mein and the always indulgent pu pu platter have plenty of other choices, too. Unlike a freight train dragging along a hodgepodge of contents, Orient Express links its different cuisines with a smart, artful precision and tasty commonality. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; noon-10:30 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Savor (not rated)
3187 Roswell Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-869-0070.
www.savorgourmet.com

This fine food shop and deli in Buckhead features everything from antiques, linens and high-end kitchenware to artisan cheeses and fancy jams and jellies, all expertly and lovingly purveyed and curated by owners January and Robert Hodgson. But for a quick take-away lunch the made-fresh-to-order sandwiches are surprisingly reasonably priced at $6-$7 — especially considering the quality of the ingredients. Go for Jambon French ham with Gruyere or roast beef with Gorgonzola Dolce or more than a dozen other offerings, including tuna and chicken salad, housemade pimento cheese, and creamy chevre with tapenade. The daily soup selection (available by the cup, bowl or quart) might be chicken gumbo, lobster bisque or Italian wedding. Dessert has to be a buttery-crisp Tate's chocolate chip cookie. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays; 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays. $

— Bob Townsend

Souper Jenny (not rated)
56 E. Andrews Drive N.W., Atlanta. 404-237-7687.
www.souperjennyatl.com

Jenny "Souper Jenny" Levison is the mother of the funky soup shop concept in Atlanta. Her eponymous restaurant and take-away shop has become a Buckhead institution for the lunch bunch — who enjoy the kooky, cozy atmosphere as much as the homey food. Call for the daily message from Jenny and list of featured soups (complete with Weight Watchers points), chosen from among some 200 different recipes, including: turkey chili, vegetarian split pea, chicken tortilla. Salads and sandwiches are also enticing. And every Thursday is "grilled cheese night." 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. Open 5-10 p.m. Thursdays for grilled cheese night. Note: the last hour of each day is takeout only. $

— Bob Townsend

Treehouse Restaurant & Pub (not rated)
7 Kings Circle N.E., Atlanta. 404-266-2732.

Treehouse Restaurant & Pub in Peachtree Hills has always seemed pleasantly off the beaten track — even if it continues to be a very popular neighborhood watering hole and dining spot. Go for a big burger or hanger steak at dinner or Belgian waffles at weekend brunch. But it's also a fun drop-in spot to enjoy a drink on the sprawling patio or beside the crackling fireplace. The eclectic, reasonably priced menu runs from pub grub and Tex-Mex to Mediterranean riffs and takes on classic bistro fare. Appetizers include the de rigueur artichoke dip and tequila-lime-flavored hummus dip. One of the house favorites is a cheesy, cumin-laced, layered concoction — with black beans, corn, tortillas, guacamole, and sour cream — known as the Mexican torte. 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays (brunch served until 3 p.m.). Bar open later most nights. $$

— Bob Townsend

Thrive
101 Marietta St., Atlanta. 404-389-1000.
www.thriveatl.com

It takes guts to open an upscale restaurant, bar and lounge in what was once a downtown Gorin's, where there's no free parking for customers (hence the free valet) or employees, and where no one wants to come unless they are already there. What Thrive has going for it is a local edge — general manager and partner A.D. Allushi is a Buckhead Life alum and owner Jeff Safari, who, among other things, owns the incredibly successful nightclub Compound. Ian Winslade of Posh created the menu, which at first comes across a little cheeky, kind of like offerings found on a catering menu for a party at a golf club. But after a second glance there is almost a feng shui genius to its polar oddities — elbow macaroni with cheese and bits of ham sounds downright pedestrian until you taste and it becomes a creamy-vs.-salty mess of something you want to just smear around and have fun with. Shrimp cocktail, on the other hand, is a delicate offering of plump shrimp in a salad of buttery avocado and diced tomatoes with a spicy-sweet sauce peppered with horseradish. Big sandwiches for lunch (go for the grouper) and a separate sushi menu round things out. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays 5:30 p.m.-midnight Saturdays; 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays. $$-$$$

— Meridith Ford

Valenza
1441 Dresden Drive, Suite 100, Atlanta. 404-969-3233.
www.valenzarestaurant.com

The owners of Haven in Brookhaven, Michel and Tonya Arnette, have replaced their clubbish M!x (next door) with a cozy, comfortable Italian eatery. If you were one of the many people politely bellying up to M!x's bar for the latest version of a vodka creamsicle, you'll notice an easy presto-change-o set change — from a brooding bar backdrop to earthy tones, weathered wood and candlelight. And the menu, from young chef Matthew Swickerath, is rewarding. No retro-fit switch here — this is Italian on a budget, but well worth the time and dime. The young staff works hard to provide, even if most of them don't know the difference between cappellini and carpaccio. Molto bene: The restaurant claims most of the food represents the northern regions of Italy, particularly Piemonte in the northwest, where white truffles and risotto reign. The many pastas on the menu, as well as burrata (from Puglia — Italy's heel) are proof not in that pudding. Still, the offerings have the homey, precisely seasoned goodness of the dishes of Northern Italy. Agnolotti is filled with tender meat from short ribs, seasoned with the natural juices from the pan and shavings of grano padano. The risotto, made with the Cadillac of rice, carnaroli, is creamy and luxuriant with ample mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. Fritto misto has the perfect mix of batter and brawniness, with calamari, lemons, fleshy bits of halibut and capers sprinkled about for salty seasoning. And the rabbit, served with tomatoes, mushrooms and olives, is a true standout — tender meat with a succulent, indulgent flavor served over a dreamy polenta. The wine list, short but sweet, has some beautiful offerings — and save but for a few sparklers, is all Italian. 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; Fridays-Saturdays 5-11 p.m. $$$

— Meridith Ford

Vinocity Kirkwood (not rated)
1963 Hosea Williams Drive, Atlanta. 404-870-8886.
www.vinocitywinebar.com

Transplanted from Midtown to Kirkwood, this wine-driven restaurant has taken on more of the feel of a neighborhood spot, with lunch, brunch and even a kids' menu. But true to its name, there's still a fun and fairly impressive wine selection, with some 50 wines by the glass, and plenty of fine dining selections, including steaks and seared scallops, as well as burgers and sandwiches. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 8 a.m.- 11 p.m. Saturdays; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Bar open late. $$$

— Bob Townsend

COBB COUNTY

C&S Seafood and Oyster Bar
3240 Cobb Parkway, Atlanta. 770-272-0999.
candsoysterbar.com

Owners Rich Clark and Jon Schwenk have created in C & S Seafood and Oyster Bar a brasserie-style restaurant that's a little lower Manhattan and a little Boca Raton. The interior has a lush-life look to it, even though it's small, narrow and planted in the corner of a strip mall off Cobb Parkway. The décor is brooding in spots, brassy in others. This classic fish house is a refreshing change from Atlanta's usual steak-and-sushi gig: Big-boy portions of raw oysters and cherrystone clams, classic cocktails such as pisco sours, a variety of fish from arctic char to rainbow trout flown in fresh daily, steaks and sides of spinach with olive oil and garlic. The grand steak and fish houses of the early 20th century are American gastronomic icons, and C & S proves its mettle when it comes to making simple preparations like broiled or chargrilled fish with sides of roasted fingerling potatoes and haricot verts into big, bold plates of beauty. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays. $$$

— Meridith Ford

Canyons Burger Company (not rated)
335 Chambers St., Woodstock. 678-494-8868.
www.canyonsburgercompany.com/locations.php

There are no buckets of peanuts or sacks or potatoes at this latest entry into the fast-casual world of burgers. At Canyons, the environment is sleek and contemporary, with wooden tables and booths atop shiny concrete floors. The anchor of the menu is meat: specialty burgers, topped with bacon, Swiss cheese and mushrooms, barbecue sauce and grilled onions or blackened seasonings and blue cheese. A "box of rocks" is a set of four sliders topped with mustard, pickles and grilled onions. Or you can build your own. Other options: a portobello burger with provolone cheese on a wheat bun; turkey burger with Swiss cheese; garden or grilled chicken tender salads; and three- or five-piece chicken tender plates. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $

— H.M. Cauley

Elevation Chop House and Skybar (not rated)
1723 McCollum Parkway, Bldg. 600, Kennesaw. 770-485-7469.
www.elevationchophouse.com

The two-story Elevation Chop House and Skybar looks out over Cobb County's McCollum Field, where small jets, private planes and helicopters come and go on a regular basis. Add to the views an approachable menu, created by local celebrity chef Richard Blais, who has reined in his wild side to come up with dishes sure to please the suburban dining crowd. Look for filet mignon, rib eye, lamb spare ribs and tuna sashimi along with chicken fingers, cheeseburgers and mac and cheese. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Bar open until 1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— H.M. Cauley

Lime Taqueria (not rated)
4600 West Village Place, Smyrna. 678-309-1113.

Don't let the word "taqueria" fool you, warns partner Jesse Diaz. "Most people immediately think it's going to be very casual. If they're expecting a bowl of chips and salsa, they might be a little disappointed. But they're in for an educational night." The left-hand side of the Lime menu is simple, street food, with tacos and appetizers, but there are also dishes you don't normally see in a Mexican restaurant. That inspiration comes from chef Oscar Mendivil, a veteran of the Ritz-Carlton and a native of Mexico. One of the new hot items is sure to be the Mexico burger, a beef patty topped with guacamole, smoked bacon, red onion, poblano chiles, cheese and a side of garlic mayo. More upscale entrees include a breast of chicken on a bed of risotto in a mushroom cream sauce with Mexican truffles; and the scallops marinated in pineapple sauce with cheese and mangoes. A poblano pepper comes stuffed with pork, tomatoes, onions, garlic, peaches, apples, pears, raisins and almonds. Skirt steak is grilled over mesquite and served with mashed potatoes; ahi-grade tuna is pan-seared and tossed with a mango avocado salsa. Grilled shrimp arrive with spaghetti squash and lime-infused spinach. A small-plate selection, from $2.50 to $7.99, includes catfish or lime chicken tacos; pork chorizo; grilled lobster with avocado cream; fig-glazed pork loin; and the signature dish — braised steak cooked in a chile broth with green olives, potato strips, raisins and carrots and wrapped in a corn husk. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open later. Brunch: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sundays. $$$

— H.M. Cauley

Tasty China
585 Franklin Road S.E., Suite B-3 Marietta. 770-419-9849.

Chef Peter Chang may have put Tasty China on the map before promptly leaving, but the heat is still on with fiery Chinese food not to be ventured into lightly — the kitchen here still cooks with fervor, and lots of Sichuan peppers and peppercorns. Steer away from the American side of the menu and be persistent with feisty owner Phuong Nguyen, letting her guide you toward the sloppy wonderfulness of a dish of sharp pepper fish, made with tilapia and silken tofu mixed in a heap of red and jalapeño peppers, or a hot beef dish with "spicy green peppers" brought as a sizzling hot pot teeming with slices of jalepeños. Their small, round green-ness hides under slices of tender beef, like a snake waiting to strike. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Meridith Ford

Waterstone Grill (not rated)
4849 N. Main St., Acworth. 770-974-4899.
www.thewaterstonegrill.com

A little bit French, Italian and Asian influences show up on the global menu at Waterstone Grill. Start off with favorites from five regions: crispy calamari with sesame ginger and marinara sauces; artichoke cheese dip with feta cheese and pita toast points; beef spring rolls with mango sweet and sour and mustard sauces; fried green tomatoes with a black pepper buttermilk ranch topping; and bacon-wrapped barbecue shrimp with horseradish. Seafood selections include scallops with a honey, soy and ginger glaze; grilled salmon in a lobster sherry sauce; sautéed trout and crabcakes. Meat lovers may be challenged by the 14-ounce rib-eye or opt for the filet mignon, baby back ribs or one of the three burgers. Pecan-crusted chicken, lasagna (with meat and without) and the signature dish — orechiette pasta topped with shrimp and grilled tenderloin in a crab cream sauce — round out the menu. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; noon-3 p.m. Saturdays. Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 5-10 p.m. Saturdays. $$$

— H.M. Cauley

DeKALB COUNTY

The Chocolate Bar
201 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-378-0630.
www.thechocolatebardecatur.com

Two talented chefs, Aaron Russell and Nick Rutherford, have teamed with owner and former nurse Karen Britain to create the area's very own reason for eating dessert first, the Chocolate Bar. A small space is bathed in warm wood tones (very chocolate-y), there's a small bar and even tables to sit outside on Decatur's main drag, West Ponce de Leon. If life were perfect, this is how we should eat all the time. Start with a "culinary cocktail," so named because it borrows an element from the kitchen as well as the bar — the refreshing watermelon spritzer is like drinking a fizzy piece of super-sweet, ripe watermelon topped with sparkling cava or champagne. It's like drinking summer. The muskiness of muscavado sugar darkens the flavor of a passion fruit mojito while a tequila "old fashioned" is fiery with agave nectar infused with serrano chile. Or choose a wine from the more than happy selection — short, but deep. Then move to nibbles of well-procured charcuterie — rich sopressata, dry-cured bresaola, finocchiona and Molinari salami and Black Forest ham smeared through grain mustard — plus bites of Sweet Grass Dairy's creamy lumiere cheese and a bite of savory manchego with cooked pears and bitefuls of marinated olives. But save room for what's really important — dessert. Don't look for homey, fudgy, sloppy or gooey here. And don't try this at home. These lovely selections are delicately made, easy on the eyes and full with flavor — the triple threat in pastry arts. 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30 p.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays (bar and chocolate case open at 1 p.m. Saturdays); 5:30-10 p.m.Sundays. $$

— Meridith Ford

MGR Palace
1825-14A Rockbridge Road, Stone Mountain. 770-413-1415.

Nobody griddles up dosai better than Nanjunda Ram, the chef-owner of newly opened MGR Palace (the MGR stands for Madras Sri Ganesh Ram), at the Wal-Mart shopping center at Rockbridge Road in Stone Mountain. Ram was the griddle master at Madras Saravana Bhavan in Decatur before it closed. Indian menus in the Atlanta area are starting to woefully remind me of the demise of Chinese menus — they offer a little too much of something for everyone. MGR Palace certainly falls prey to this bit of ill-placed logic. The difference is that almost everything here is worth a taste, even if, like the saag paneer dosa — a thin, lacy dosa filled with cubes of soft farmer cheese and spinach — the origins are a bit suspect. Saag paneer, a spinach-and-mustard-seed curry with cheese, is a classic North Indian dish, while dosai are classically from the South. So while the lines of latitude and longitude might not meet, the result is something really good to eat. Think of it as a yummy hunk of Yankee pot roast wrapped up in a buttermilk biscuit. What's not to like? Some things, such as the bhel puri (which is actually a Mumbai street food), are better here than at Madras: puffed rice, bits of chickpea flour noodles, cilantro, onions and potatoes mix it up big time with a heap of spicy chutney. There's thali, too, with incredible dal curries, rice, raita and rice kheer, a favorite sweet dish that's sort of like a runny rice pudding chock-full of raisins and laced with warm cardamom. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. $-$$

— Meridith Ford

Taqueria Los Hermanos/Tucker
4418 Hugh Howell Road, Tucker. 678-937-0660.

The menu at this pleasant spot is all over the place — excellent chiles rellenos stuffed with sweet cheese and batter fried, as well as moist, musky tamales stuffed in corn husks with chicken and masa in a red chile sauce are always specials — while snacks like fish tacos of deep-fried tilapia and a thin, fiery jalapeno tartar sauce round out offerings that read like old standards. There are five brothers Ballesteros that make up the hermanos of Los Hermanos: Miguel, Eddie, Raul, Orlando and Roel, who does the cooking. Miguel makes the desserts. And as good as the food is, Los Hermanos is worth visiting on occasion just to have Kahlua flan and bread pudding, especially if one of the ever-polite wait staff was willing to make a fresh batch of coffee. Flan is a Latin legacy that has become so ubiquitous it has lost much of the allure it deserves — Miguel's sensuous mix of eggs and cream jelled into a caramelized mass of cold smoothness laced with the coffee flavor of Kahlua is intoxicating, literally and figuratively. He's not shy about using liquor: the bread pudding, served as two thin, shingled slices, is drenched in a riveting tequila syrup-cum-sauce. Almost every region of Mexico has a version of beloved bread pudding, and Los Hermanos' is soft and sweet, almost like a soaked French toast. The restaurant's tres leches has garnered a local rep, but the spongy cake-and-cream-concoction, with its bright fresh fruit topping, pales in comparison. Dessert is easily earned with bites of tacos al pastor, a Mexico City taqueria specialty of pork grilled on a spit crowned with pineapple, sort of like a gyro. There's no spit at Los Hermanos, but the pork pastor is just as succulent as if there were — marinated, then grilled, it has the flavor of vinegar and chiles and offers bits of sweet, acidic pina and cilantro to offset the dark flavor of the meat, all wrapped in a soft flour tortilla with a red-chile-and-tomatillo salsa. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. $-$$

— Meridith Ford

FORSYTH COUNTY

Cinco Mexican Cantina (not rated)
5755 Vickery St., Cumming. 678-341-6962.
cincomexicancantina.com

Sip a margarita from a rooftop barstool overlooking a park and polo fields at the new Cinco Mexican Cantina in Cumming's Vickery Village. Then head to the dining room for a dip of lobster and poblanos; fried calamari with a chipotle glaze; or cream of lobster soup. Guacamole fans will appreciate the freshness of the hand-crushed sauce blended with cilantro, onions, tomatoes, jalapeños and lime. Enchiladas, burritos, fajitas and tacos are present with traditional fillings and diners also will find the signature fish tacos with fried tilapia and pickled jalapeños. The signature entree: salmon in a lobster sauce. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

— H.M. Cauley

GWINNETT COUNTY

Black Creek (not rated)
4090 Johns Creek Parkway, Suwanee. 678-475-9557.
www.blackcreekrestaurant.com

Todd Paige has brought fine dining to his neighborhood. With the opening of his Black Creek restaurant, the locals around Johns Creek won't have to trek ITP to find elegant food. Start off with a Caesar, Greek, wedge or salmon salad, all topped with Paige's homemade dressings. The same personal touch goes into the sauces drizzled over the flash-fried ginger calamari, the garlic mussels and the deep-fried potato slices. Small plates also include a roasted corn crab cake with Paige's "very secret stuff" seasoning and grilled shrimp with mashed potatoes. The signature dish is roast duck that arrives with sweet potato pancakes. Meaty main courses are a 10-ounce tenderloin, a boneless rib-eye, New York strip and bone-in pork chops. The lighter side has grilled chicken, trout, pan-roasted grouper, salmon, ahi tuna medallions and mahi mahi with a mango and papaya salsa. Salads and soup take the stage at lunch time, along with quesadillas, sandwiches of pulled pork and ahi tuna and entrees of chicken, filet, grouper and salmon. An $8 pasta bar comes with a wedge or Caesar salad, three pastas and a choice of four sauces. For a few dollars more, add chicken, beef or shrimp. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— H.M. Cauley

Boudreaux's Cajun Restaurant (not rated)
860 Ga. 120, Suite 450, Lawrenceville. 770-236-8585.
www.boudreauxscajun.com

Boudreaux's Cajun Restaurant is a strong next step for owner Paul Many, who also has a market with a small dining area in Duluth. The portions are enormous, and packed with flavor. Favorites are anything with the shrimp (Louisiana native Many brings that and other meats in weekly from south Louisiana and south Alabama), as well as standards like jambalaya and gumbo. A bar area provides seats for diners to eat and watch the action on flat screen TVs. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, noon-7 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Lori Johnston

Cheeky Taqueria (not rated)
1039 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Suite A-122, Suwanee. 770-831-8887.
www.cheekytaqueria.com

Cheeky Taqueria is a new hip spot for Mexican, without the combination platters and with fresh traditional dishes and unique fare. We'll go back for dishes such as the crabcake tacos and steak burrito, and the fun churros con chocolate dessert (fried dough with a warm chocolate dip). The restaurant also has a sizable bar area, with tabletop taps dispensing Dos Equis. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays, 10 a.m.-midnight Saturdays, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Lori Johnston

Mu Lan-Suwanee (not rated)
3370 Lawrenceville-Suwanee Road, Suite 114, Suwanee. 770-831-3233.
www.chinchinonline.com

Does it right with both the service and the food. The wait staff is there when you need them, but encourage a mindset of sitting back and enjoying the food as it comes. And it's worth being enjoyed, with heaping portions of tasty traditional fare including Mongolian beef and noodle dishes. The sushi also hits the mark. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

— Lori Johnston

NORTH FULTON 5 Seasons North (not rated)
3655 Old Milton Parkway, Alpharetta. 770-521-5551.
www.5seasonsbrewing.com

Go ahead and chunk any preconceived brew pub notions. Sure, it's a beer-lovers delight with liberally flowing and distinctive hops and barley. But bar food goes the way of the dinosaur in favor of smart, foodie-friendly entrees. The cheese kari kari, a light and flaky version of crab rangoon, astonishes from the get-go. Its ponzu sauce slaps a dash of boldness with each dip. And the cream cheese and crab innards proclaim divinity. We tear into a bundle of multigrain boule. Made in house, the chef uses the brewer's spent grain. The result is a slightly hard, powdery exterior that holds a warm, fluffy body that's tough to resist. Grilled, thin-crust pizza approaches gourmet status. The micro basil and vine-ripe tomatoes decorating the margarita pizza echo 5 Seasons' organic dining philosophy. The same goes for the organic salmon, a brick of fish wading in a not-too-spicy Thai coconut curry with crunchy veggies and sticky rice. Some things change at dinner, including mind-blowing squares of American Kobe hanging tender sitting atop a hefty bed of sautéed sweet onions and baby shiitake mushrooms. But don't forget the beer. Crawford Moran, the former mastermind behind Dogwood Brewing, is the reigning brewmaster responsible for inventive tastes like the Espresso Black Hole Stout, which draws from five kinds of espresso. Top-shelf table treats and major league home brews put 5 Seasons in its own shining category. Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; noon-4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Dinner 4-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursday, 4-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open until midnight Sundays-Thursdays, until 2 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Jon Waterhouse

Bistro VG
70 W. Crossville Road, Roswell. 770-993-1156.
www.sedgwickrestaurantgroup.com

Restaurateurs Chris and Michele Sedgwick didn't build their OTP dynasty of popular places — Aspen's, Vinny's, Theo's Brother's Bakery, Pure Taqueria and Van Gogh's — without taking a few risks. In October 2006, they closed Van Gogh's (the popularity of which, admittedly, was beginning to wane), redesigned it, then reopened in November with a new name, Bistro VG, a new look and a new menu that touts a fresh take on modern French food (and woodfired pizzas and pasta, of course). The look is country French, though the space is much larger than any bistro — expansive brick walls have been splashed bright with off white, one adorned with a painting of clouds and blue sky. The ecru-painted floors give way to tables adorned with farmhouse linens, each thread as different as a snowflake. The bar sports a communal table that flanks a pebble-studded fireplace. And the menu? Approachably French with lots of loose interpretation, from charcuterie plates of salami and prosciutto to offerings of pate with brown mustard and cornichons to pan-seared skate wing and tarte tatin. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays (with small plates from 2:30-5 p.m. in the bar and lounge). Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Meridith Ford

Chef Rob's Caribbean Cafe (not rated)
5920 Roswell Road, Suite A-117, Sandy Springs. 404-250-3737.
www.chefrobscaribbeancafe.com

Never mind the temperature or landlocked locale. One step into Chef Rob's Caribbean Cafe and it's a virtual vacation with zingy roasted jerk chicken, relaxed seafood and bountiful fruity drinks. Encased in color, the décor goes tropical with orange, red and yellow walls beaming for attention. But the focus is quickly on the food as fried hunks of plantains burst with heat and banana sweetness. A side order of rice and peas provides a comfortable touch of spice. Triangles of warm coco bread come pudgy and soft. The popular roasted Caribbean jerk chicken easily falls from the bone with a gentle tug of a fork. Slow-cooked, braised beef oxtail with a scattering of butter beans remains a hot grab. Pasta with seafood bling and vegetarian dishes help fill the remainder of the menu. The white chocolate bread pudding comes as a thick square with drizzles of sweetness. But if you're idea of dessert is a fruit-heavy tropical drink, Chef Rob's has a lengthy roster from the incredibly rummy Jamaican rum punch to several flavors of mojitos. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays; noon-midnight Saturdays; noon-8 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Mittie's Tea Room Cafe (not rated)
25 Plum St., Roswell. 770-594-8822.
www.mitties.com

The archetypical tea room thrives in quaint femininity. Ladies pick up piping hot cups while raising a pinkie and noshing on finger sandwiches in the midst of doily décor. Mittie's Tea Room in Roswell, one of several metro locations, has some of those expectations, sure. But a wide selection of teas and smart soups, salads and sandwiches make it more than an exercise in daintiness. You get two menus at Mittie's: one for tea, the other for eats. The tea list is thorough enough for just the right amount of diversity without being too exhaustive and promoting indecision. And jars of loose-leaf tea are available from behind the checkout counter. Other steamy items, in the form of soup, warm guests. The near ivory-colored lobster bisque has a creamy thickness with little bits of lobster and red pepper in the broth. Health-sensitive patrons can scan the menu looking for items best suiting personal diets. The California spring salad remains practically guiltless. A mix of greens tumbles with avocado, portobello mushrooms, almonds, onion and strawberries. The side of raspberry poppyseed dressing sweetens the deal and a diminutive carrot muffin plays out as a sensible side. A peach-glazed chicken breast provides the centerpiece for Judy's Peach of a Chick croissant sandwich. And the tuna quesadilla goes upstream with a touch of cucumber dill mayonnaise. Mittie's specializes in dishes delivering waves of contentment with breakfast items like fruit-laced oatmeal to an array of quiches. It may not look overly kid friendly, but Mittie's welcomes young ones with copious kiddie platters. Kids and adults might enjoy closing out lunch with a punch of dessert. Skip the aesthetically pleasing yet ultimately dry carrot cake for a piece of fudgy, especially rich chocolate cake. 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Mona Lisa Restaurant and Pizzeria (not rated)
8465 Holcomb Bridge Road, Johns Creek. 678-822-6662.
www.monalisapizzarestaurant.com

Mona Lisa knows the perfect balance of casual Italian. It's the kind of place you'd feel equally comfortable buddying up to pizza and an icy beer or a discerning pasta dish and a glass of fine wine. It's pleasant, comfortable and relaxed, but don't underestimate the kitchen. Opt for an impromptu game of movie trivia courtesy of the scores of film dialogue hand painted on Mona Lisa's green wall. Try pegging each line to the appropriate movie. It provides a fun and challenging pre-meal distraction. But all attention goes to the food as it arrives. Fans of shellfish owe it to themselves to experience the dazzling Mussels Fra Diavolo. A fantastic, garlicky tomato sauce with a tinge of spice covers a bowl loaded with open-shell mussels. The remarkable sauce is good dunking fodder for the hunks of homemade focaccia. Mona Lisa scores big with its specialty pies, especially the Mona's Garden. This white pizza gets dressed with thin slivers of roasted almonds and smart amounts of mushrooms and spinach. An underlying garlic accent brings a nice tone. Interesting entrees like Veal Saltimbocca beg for discovery as do a roster of pastas including time-honored tastes like ravioli, linguini and rigatoni. Be it a family free-for-all feast or a romantic, "Lady and the Tramp"-like interlude over noodles and Chianti, Mona Lisa is the kind of multi-purpose Italian you can count on. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 4-9:30 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Pure Taqueria
103 Roswell St., Alpharetta. 678-240-0023.
www.puretaqueria.com

Part of Alpharetta's dining boom, Pure Taqueria is another addition to Chris and Michele Sedgwick's growing family of restaurants that include Bistro VG, Aspens, Theo's Brother's Bakery and Vinny's. Of them all, it is by far the best. In it lies the couple's fondness for Mexican culture and food, and eating here feels like a day at a Mexican beach — the mood is relaxed, open and breezy. Ditto the short list of Mexican favorites that include queso fundido, fish tacos, ceviche and mean margaritas. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Bar is open later. $$

— Meridith Ford

Relish
590 Mimosa Boulevard, Roswell. 770-650-7877.
relishgoodfood.com

Andy and Jennifer Badgett, who owned much-lauded Asher, somewhat quietly have arrived back on the dining scene with Relish, a Southern-inspired spot that, for lack of better explanation, combines the exalted efforts of Asher with the casual comfort of Fickle Pickle, the couple's popular lunch spot — with a strong slant towards the latter. Set in the old Roswell Funeral Home on Mimosa Boulevard, the expansive space has been transformed into several smaller dining areas (though the rooms grow with every visit). High ceilings and a lack of much upholstery make lunch a high-pitched ladies din of dining. And lunch (or brunch) is the best way to enjoy Relish. Din or not. The food is fresher and the space less austere in daylight. Service is speedy, but not in an interrupted way. The pace is set just right for those who may have something besides Oprah to do for the rest of the afternoon. Night or day, the pimiento cheese fritters are little fried balls of yum — crunchy with bread crumbs on the outside, soft and gooey with piquant pepper and cheese flavor on the inside. Add a feisty tomato chow chow to the mix and presto! A signature dish is born. Bits of nibbles — cheese straws, spiced pecans and an excellently baked sour cream corn bread — are an odd way to start things off. They seem like dainty bridge table offerings that are out of place on a menu that is otherwise pretty hefty with fried catfish, oysters and heavy-hitting mac-n-cheese. Bacon-wrapped trout, by comparison, is downright blithesome. Laced with hints of rosemary over a simple hash of sweet potatoes and gingerly sautéed green beans in an ethereally light lemon butter sauce, it is one of the most delicate offerings on the menu. Some of Relish's best recipes are served at the bar. Fresh-squeezed lemonade laced with cucumber is a refreshing sip, but when combined with Jack Daniels and Grand Marnier, it becomes an even more refreshing nip. Frankly, this spritely lemonade would make Everclear taste good. At dinner it's nice to linger with coffee and dessert. It's hard not to opt for Kripsy Kreme bread pudding, simply because, well — where the heck else are you going to get this darling Southern oddity of doughnuts? Relish's version is thankfully less sweet than most; ignore the gloppy coffee crème anglaise and enjoy. A trio of tiny fried peach pies is best: hand-crimped, filled with sweet dried peaches, fried lightly then dusted with sugar and a whisper of cinnamon, they taste a lot like grandma's. Which is where Relish shines most — expanding on a stable of simple dishes that are part Southern bistro, part grandma's house. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch: 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$-$$$

— Meridith Ford

ATHENS

The National
232 West Hancock Ave, Athens. 706-549-3450.
thenationalrestaurant.com

Hugh Acheson of Athens' Five & Ten is an unlikely candidate for culinary cloning. His restaurant is a local gem that's become a destination for the area — quaint and charming with an inviting menu of Southern slanted dishes simply prepared and seasonally inspired. But his second restaurant, The National (also in Athens), is hardly a duplicate of Five & Ten — it's more like a little sister. Opened this past fall, this new space is neatly carved into a spot next to the movie bistro Ciné, with pleasant, unintimidating results. Large windows, a stylish bar and smooth gray walls give an aura of understated sophistication, while plastic tablecloths with floral patterns reminded me of my grandmother. Acheson has placed Peter Dale, a self-made chef who has worked for years at Five & Ten, in charge of The National's kitchen. Dale had never cooked before when he asked Acheson for a job in 2002. He started as a prep cook, working literally for his dinner: instead of a paycheck, Dale sat at the bar after his shift and tried all the goodies in the goody shop, eventually tasting — and working — his way up the ranks. He also spent time in Spain, working for fashionable La Broche in Madrid and a mom-and-pop joint in Zaragoza called La Lobera de Martin, where he developed a passion for the local cuisine and stellar ingredients — two of Five & Ten's greatest assets. And it is the combination of Spanish and Mediterranean influences with local freshness that is the cornerstone of The National's offerings. Calling the concept tapas isn't just lip service to a worn trend; most of the dishes here are true Spanish tapas — plates of just a few bites, no more, referred to as "snackies" on a short, well-planned menu. It's this area of cooking where Dale shines brightest: an offering of broiled Spanish chorizo (think pepperoni) is served in a cazuela with caramelized apple — a tart, welcome contrast to the heady spiciness of the sausage. Dale's time in Spain is reflected in his preparation of patatas bravas — practically the country's national dish and certainly its most famous tapas. Deep-fried potatoes, cut into chunks, are served with a snappy tomato-and-pepper sauce alongside rich aioli to balance the heat — no different than any of the best in Barcelona. Medjool dates are tiny bites of bliss, lanced down the center and filled with thin slices of celery and nutty-flavored Manchego cheese. Relaxed, easy-going. Harder to pull off than it sounds. And yet The National makes it look so easy. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-

2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Bar open later with small plates served. $$-$$$

— Meridith Ford

KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good: Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss.
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)