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FALL DINING GUIDE

Neighborhoods hold the key to some good eats

Published on: 10/05/2006

946 South

946 Canton St., Roswell. 770-992-4830.

Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF
946 South, a cozy spot in Roswell, offers fresh salads and sandwiches to the lunch and dinner crowd.
 
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF
Experience Middle Eastern cuisine, including shawarma, a roasted meat dish, on the Northside at Byblos.
 
Elissa Eubanks/Staff
Enoteca Carbonari offers pomodori — grilled cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, crushed pepper and parmigiana — among its treats.
 
Vino Wong/Staff Photographer
Ferry Vendy brings out a bowl of rice vermicelli, spring rolls and grilled pork at New Saigon Vietnamese Bistro.
 
Elissa Eubanks/Staff
A grilled Angus hamburger, dressed with portobellos, harissa aïoli and Wisconsin cheddar, awaits diners at P'cheen in Atlanta.
 
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Fall Dining Guide:

It's a family-owned business with different family members at the helm during the day. At lunch, Peggy and Mike Bramblett serve fresh salads and sandwiches and a few Mexican entrees. At lunch the Brambletts' daughter Kellie Clark and husband Rick serve sophisticated comfort food such as tomatoes topped with herbs and melted havarti cheese, crab cakes with cilantro sauce, turkey meatloaf and vegetarian pasta. Lunch: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$

— Jennifer Brett

Atlantic Seafood Restaurant

1455 Pleasant Hill Road, Lawrenceville. 770-564-0944.

For home-cooked Colombian food, Atlantic Seafood Restaurant is worth the drive to Lawrenceville. This family-friendly spot serves up spicy comfort food in a festive setting that suggests a seaside villa. Seafood is a specialty, with the steamed catfish in a light coconut sauce being a house favorite as well as the fried whole tilapia and the paella. The kids menu offers, among other things, popcorn shrimp and chicken strips that are surprisingly fresh and homemade. Like the dinner portions the lunch specials are huge, guaranteeing tasty leftovers. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Rosalind Bentley

Byblos

10684 Alpharetta Highway, Roswell. 678-352-0321, www.byblos-atlanta.com

Middle-Eastern and Lebanese flavors abound at Byblos Restaurant, long before your first bite. Upon entry, you're met with an atmosphere that harkens dining spots in Tripoli, with hookahs on the tables. Terracotta murals and the occasional belly dancer are a feast for the eyes. But the food is what ultimately pleases the senses. A buffet lets you sample a variety of tastes — from the stuffed veggies and beef kafta to the lamb and falafel or the Lebanese-styled meatballs — weekdays at lunch, Thursday nights and Sunday for brunch. Entrees include an equal injection of hearty foods, or pita sandwiches are available for a lighter lunch. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays and Sundays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

DaVinci's Italian Restaurant

3370 Sugarloaf Parkway, Suite D6, Lawrenceville. 770-237-3131.

DaVinci's cracks the code with well-prepared pasta dishes, fresh ingredients and a welcoming atmosphere. This Lawrenceville eatery, located in a Publix-anchored strip shopping center at the intersection of Sugarloaf Parkway and Five Forks Trickum Road, has standard Italian fare that succeeded with all the dishes we tried, from the colorful Caprese salad to penne vodka. The pasta dishes have just the right amount of sauce that brings out the pasta and fresh ingredients instead of overpowering them. 3-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 3-10 p.m. Fridays; noon-10 p.m. Saturdays; noon-9:30 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Lori Johnston

The Derby Bar & Grill

5915 Suwanee Dam Road, Sugar Hill. 770-271-4004, www.thederby.us.

The Derby first opened in Norcross 25 years ago, and its Sugar Hill location also offers seafood, sandwiches, salads and steaks at reasonable prices. We have a newfound appreciation for mozzarella sticks after trying the Derby's homemade recipe, and items like the ribeye, Philly cheesesteak and fried shrimp all are satisfying. Oysters, wings and peel-and-eat shrimp also are popular, especially with cheap happy hour specials from 4-7 p.m. weekdays. More than 70 TVs fill the walls in both the bar area and the separate, more family-friendly, dining section. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays. $$

— Lori Johnston

Enoteca Carbonari

710 Peachtree St. N.E., Atlanta. 404-810-9110.

www.enotecacarbonari.com.

From the owners of Baraonda comes Enoteca Carbonari, an Italian wine bar/restaurant, located next door. Instead of Baraonda's wood-burning pizza oven, though, Enoteca's show piece is a wood-burning rotisserie, built for cooking such meaty Italian classics as porchetta — roasted suckling pig. Compared with the massive, cork-covered book that is the wine list, the single-page paper menu seems slight. But it's loaded with simple, tasty treats from antipasti, such as olives and marinated anchovies; to crostoni, bruschetta-like toasted bread with toppings; and salads, such as bright marinated beets with thin slices of garlic and sprigs of watercress. And the meticulously presented mix-and-match cheese and cured meat plates are a good deal for sharing. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays. $$-$$$

— Bob Townsend

Flavor Cafe Bakery

236 Johnson Ferry Road N.E., Sandy Springs. 404-255-7402.

A friendly addition to Sandy Springs' dining scene, Flavor is casual by day and a little more formal at night. The fare ranges from omelets in the morning to sandwiches for lunch and entrees such as grilled chicken or salmon, beef tenders and butternut squash ravioli for dinner. The mushroom bisque features meaty chunks of mushroom with a sprinkling of fresh parsley, and the excellent basil tomato cheese torta is a great combination of simple, fresh ingredients that sing together in perfect harmony. For dessert try the chocolate mousse with raspberry glaze but plan to split it or take half home — it's richer than new money. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays; 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. Dinner menu starts at 5 p.m. $$

— Jennifer Brett

Kiosco

48 Power Springs St., Marietta. 678-337-7999.

Located just off the Marietta Square, this Colombian restaurant serves generous portions of traditional South American fare in a warm, cozy setting. The thin, molasses-colored empanadas stuffed with beef and corn are perked up considerably when dipped in the accompanying cilantro sauce. Another excellent starter is the papa criolla frita, which features tiny, fried whole potatoes served with a remoulade sauce. Dinner entrees are served with choice of lentil soup or chickpea salad and sides of white rice and red beans. Meat lovers will want to order the bandeja paisa, a smorgasbord of proteins including a tasty, paper-thin slice of steak, house-made chorizo sausage, chunks of freshly fried pork skins and a fried egg nestled in a pile of rice. The hearty meals are capped off appropriately by desserts that are light and refreshing. The coffee flan and tres leches — a custard, not a cake — are not to be missed. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:45-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; noon-9:30 p.m. Saturdays. Closed Sundays. $$

— Suzanne Van Atten

The Manchester Arms

1705 Virginia Ave., College Park. 404-763-9980, www.themanchesterarms.com

A British-style neighborhood pub, offering solid, reasonably priced grub. The setting is a quaint, two-story, Tudor-style house, with the front yard turned into a landscaped patio area. Inside, the lofty space is anchored by an L-shaped bar and accented with burnished wood, stained glass and tin ceiling tiles. The menu features a variety of bar food favorites, with some distinctively English touches. Puffy Yorkshire pudding popovers make a fun, savory starter. Burgers, sandwiches, soups and salads round out the standard offerings, with the likes of meatloaf or pasta dishes among the daily specials. But regulars come for the fish and chips — two hefty hunks of flaky cod in a crunchy, golden beer batter, with pickley tartar sauce and a pile of fries. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 4-10 p.m. Saturdays. Closed on Sundays. Bar is open later. $$

— Bob Townsend

Milano of Snellville

2133 Main St. East, Snellville. 678-344-5858, www.milanoofsnellville.com

Garlic rolls bathing in butter and an overflowing communal salad bowl start the proceedings. Hungry? Try the Trio Sampler appetizer with stubby mozzarella sticks, light and satisfying calamari, and stuffed mushrooms loaded with warm and flavorful spinach and crab meat. The stuffed shrimp rises to the top as a customer favorite entree. Ready for a gluttonous finish? Try the dessert Trio Sampler with cheesecake, tiramisu and cannoli. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays and 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

New Saigon Vietnamese Bistro

3780 Old Norcross Road,

Duluth. 770-495-8828.

Like many of the recent crop of Vietnamese restaurants that have sprouted up around Gwinnett recently, New Saigon is a bright, tidy storefront located in a strip center, serving an array of traditional dishes. But you'll also find some interesting specialties here. For something different and very tasty, try the duck noodle soup. A sort of Chinese-Vietnamese hybrid, it's crowned by a deeply flavorful, darkly braised duck leg in a murky soy broth, rich with duck fat and a variety of spices. There's also a section titled "Modern Cuisine with Vietnamese Influences" that includes the likes of battered and fried chicken on a bed of baby greens with chili plum sauce, and lemongrass blackened beef filets with tiger prawns. Adding to the bargain prices, entrees come with a free dessert. 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. $$

— Bob Townsend

PanAsia Bistro

1580 Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell. 770-642-8157, www.panasiaasianbistro.com

Though the menu is subtitled "Flavors of Asia Southern Style," the menu isn't cutesy fusion. Rather, the solid cooking features fresh Asian ingredients prepared with some down-home twists. Located in a small storefront in the Market Center shopping center, the cozy dining room has a look that matches the bright and homey flavors. Tried-and-true Asian appetizers include fried egg rolls, Chinese pork dumplings and very good Vietnamese spring rolls. But there are also more imaginative dishes, such as a griddled salmon sweet potato cake plated with an orange coconut cream sauce, spiked with ginger and green onions. And entrees and lunch specials include sweet and sour Southern style, kicked up with Cajun spices and a sour orange honey sauce. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; Dinner: 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-9 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

P'cheen

701-5 Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-529-8800, www.pcheen.com

A prime example of the latest wave of urban-hip Atlanta bar/restaurants, P'cheen (the name is derived from the Irish word for moonshine) is the creative progeny of a chef and a DJ. The look is both rustic and stylish. The menu mixes pub grub favorites, such as fish and chips, with contempo bistro fare. And much of the savvy beer and wine list is bargain-priced. Noon-1 a.m. Tuesdays-Wednesdays; noon-2 a.m. Thursdays-Fridays; 2 p.m.-2 a.m. Saturdays; 2 p.m.-midnight Sundays. Closed Mondays. $$

— Bob Townsend

Pollo De Fuego

1560 Indian Trail-Lilburn Road, No. 104, Norcross. 770-381-2226.

There's a fast-food atmosphere at this straightforward wing and roasted chicken joint. Though the marinated steak is delicious, and barbecue pork is available, Pollo de Fuego is a good place to pick up a passel of wings before a tailgate or the big Sunday afternoon game. The honey barbecue wings will satisfy and the lemon pepper wings are especially tasty. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. $$

— Rosalind Bentley

Shorty's

2884 B North Druid Hills Road, Atlanta. 404-315-6262, myspace.com/shortys_pizza.

Shorty's is a quirky place. And not just because of the satirical name. Shoehorned into a long, skinny space at the end of a rather barren strip center, it's saved from feeling claustrophobic by an open kitchen and funky wood and steel panels that ascend to a tall ceiling. Thin crust pizza, baked in a wood-burning brick oven, takes center stage here and can be had with a host of "regular" and "rock star" toppings as well as rock star-named specialty pies, such as the vegetarian-light Chrissie Hynde and the meat-laden Sid Vicious. Starters and salads are a creative mix of the usual and unusual. And mashed-to-order guacamole easily vies for the title of best in town. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$

— Bob Townsend

Smith's Olde Bar

1578 Piedmont Ave., Atlanta. 404-875-1522, www.smithsoldebar.com

This restaurant is a hot spot for rock 'n' roll/adult alternative music with 10 or more shows a week. It also serves great tavern food, and Fox Bros. BBQ, which has found a loyal following. The meats from Fox Bros. BBQ caterers in Atlanta are redolent of the intensely smoky-spicy flavors found in Texas. And the sauce — a sweet-and-heat combo of tomato, vinegar and pepper — is a perfectly piquant accompaniment. In addition to ordering from their catering menu (404-414-7095, www.foxbrosbbq.com), you can now find the Bros. brisket, ribs and pulled pork at Smith's Olde Bar on Piedmont Avenue every day. 4 p.m.-3 a.m. Mondays-Fridays, noon-3 a.m. Saturdays, noon-midnight Sundays. $$

— Bob Townsend

Suno Dessert Cafe

2570 Pleasant Hill Road No. 101, Duluth. 770-623-1990, www.suno-dessert.com

Traditional ice cream should take a back seat to this treat. Suno serves up light and fluffy pillows of shaved ice, which contains some dairy and is topped with lovely pieces of fresh fruit and drizzled with fruit juice syrup or sweet condensed milk. Toppings such as jelly squares and sweet peanuts tempt more ambitious diners. With its scheme of cool blue and white, its a great spot for dessert after an early movie. You can indulge without feeling quite as guilty as you would after eating a double waffle cone of regular ice cream. Noon-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. $

— Rosalind Bentley

Tam's Backstage

101 School St., Cumming. 678-455-8310, www.tamsbackstage.com

Located on the lower level of the circa-1923 Cumming Public School, a charming red brick building that's now home to the local historical society and the Cumming Playhouse, the restaurant's dramatic upstairs neighbor has inspired Tam's decor and menu. The interior — exposed brick and ductwork, plus murals of performers — is gorgeous. The menu features lots of seafood, and fabulous tiramisu is the featured dessert. Lunch: noon-4 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 4-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays and 4-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Jennifer Brett

Tomas

6025 Peachtree Parkway,

Suite 9, Atlanta. 770-447-0005, www.cheftomaslee.com

There is definitely a lot going on at Tomas, where chef/owner Tomas Lee takes bistro food and layers it with influences from the Southwest, Asia and the Deep South. Sometimes all in the same dish, which doesn't always work. But there are some wonderfully fresh notes that play well on the menu. They wind up making Tomas a very enjoyable neighborhood restaurant. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays. $$

— Rosalind Bentley

Village Pizza Co.

186 Carroll St., Atlanta. 404-586-0040.

A bargain-priced pizza and pasta joint in synch with the current Cabbagetown scene. Outside, there's just enough room on the sidewalk for a bench and a couple of cool Village Pizza delivery bicycles. Inside, the look is like a shiny vision from the latest IKEA catalog. There's pizza by the slice and eight specialty pies, including pesto with mozzarella and fontina cheese and vegan with soy "meats" and "cheeses." Salads, sandwiches and an array of entree-size dishes, including ravioli and eggplant Parmesan, round out the menu of Italian-American classics. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

Which Wich?

747 Virginia Ave., Hapeville. 404-765-9424, www.whichwich.com

"Which Wich Do You Want?" is the neon question that hangs on the wall behind the order counter and open kitchen at this bright sandwich shop in Hapeville. And that's the core concept of this quick-casual franchise, where you can choose from more than 50 tasty sandwich combos, most bargain-priced at $4. We really liked the $5 "Wicked," which has turkey, ham, roast beef, pepperoni and bacon with two cheeses. Sort of a cross between a hoagie and a panini, its warm, rolled layers of meats, melted cheese and crispy bread is a simple satisfaction of flavors and textures. Ditto the crunchy-fresh house ripple chips with salt and pepper, and the old-fashioned shakes made-to-order with hand-dipped ice cream and milk. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

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