accessAtlanta

WE ASKED OUR dining correspondents who produce the Neighborhood Nosh reviews in the zoned editions as well as Access Atlanta for some of their favorite recent meal visits in neighborhoods around the metro area.

Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Chocolate Mousse Pie will bring lunch or dinner to a sublimely sweet end at Alpharetta's Alpha Soda.
Bob Andres/AJC Staff (ENLARGE)
Roasted golden beet with red beet and truffle oil vinaigrette at the Blue Bicycle in Dawsonville.
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Shrimp creole's just one of the unpretentious entrees with a spicy groove at From Havana to U.
Phil Skinner/AJC Staff (ENLARGE)
No need to ask where the beef is at Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries, a made-to-order heaven for carnivores.
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Soba noodles with chicken, egg and shrimp tempura at Sakura Japanese Sushi Bar in east Cobb.
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HUNGRY FOR MORE? Welcome to our Spring Dining Guide See & hear it: What's so Southern about that? Southern food's high-fallutin again The seven: Savvy Southern fare Check out these homey sideshows Spring '07: Our Top 10 New places with familiar flavors Ethnic flavors in our backyard Great eats in the neighborhood

Alpha Soda

11760 Haynes Bridge Road, Alpharetta. 770-442-3102.
www.alphasoda.com

Doors open early for breakfast, and most breakfast dishes — including an array of omelets and entrees like California crab and eggs — are available all day. The lunch and dinner menu offers roadside diner favorites and eclectic entrees. Old Bay seafood seasoning spices up homemade potato chips, while the ranch dressing dip cools things down. The chips are crispy, thin and not overly greasy. The same can be said for the Alpha Soda Patty Melt. A hefty burger patty with cheese and grilled onions comes sandwiched between two buttery, grilled slices of rye. 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $

— Jon Waterhouse

Atkins Park Tavern

5820 S. Vickery St., Cumming. 678-513-2333.
www.atkinspark.com

A generous bowl of steamed mussels in a pool of white wine sauce with garlic, butter, herbs and tomatoes arrives. The bivalves are instantly addictive, fresh, flavorful and slightly firm. Our waitress suggests dipping the pretzels in the mussels' delectable sauce. The bread soaks it up. Soon we create a pattern. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Bar open later. $$$

— Jon Waterhouse

The Blue Bicycle

671 Lumpkin Campground Road, Suite 116 (at Premium Outlet Mall), Dawsonville. 706-265-2153
bluebicycle.net

A clubby, New American menu that spans the gap from dolled-up comfort food to elegant cuisine, Blue Bicycle is a stunning value. For the price of a few blinged-out cocktails in Midtown, diners can enjoy an exquisite meal that showcases the gifts of its talented chef, and fresh, local herbs and produce. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5:30-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Jennifer Brett

Blue Grotto Tapas Bistro

220 Sandy Springs Circle, Atlanta. 678-705-6688.
www.bluegrottotapas.com

Trendy tapas are here to stay at this glam spot in the heart of Sandy Springs. We loved the cilantro pork roll, grilled lamb and crawfish quesadilla, not to mention the grilled garlic bread. The Carolina scallops with grits, not so much — there was way too much going on. A special salute to the fantastic wait staff, which works as a team to hustle out dishes as they're ready. 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $

— Jennifer Brett

Blue Moon Pizza

2359 Windy Hill Road, Marietta. 770-984-2444.
www.bluemoonpizzaatl.com

Mandy Slater, who owns Blue Moon with her husband, is proud of the happily mixed clientele her restaurant draws in. Lunch brings lots of business folk, and dinnertime sees lots of families. The decor is casual elegance. The TVs are tuned to sports channels, but the bar, with its tile-top tables and roster of specialty martinis (chocolate, cheesecake, peach and Key lime are among the flavors), makes this a spot for either sneakers or heels. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $

— Jennifer Brett

Collard Green Cafe

2566 Shallowford Road, Suite 112, Atlanta. 404-634-3440.

"You won't find a can opener in our kitchen," declares the one-page paper menu at Collard Green Cafe. And indeed most of the veggies are very fresh and tasty at this tiny meat-and-two that specializes in bargain-priced soul food in a no-frills atmosphere. Fried-to-order chicken, well-seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika, is both crispy-skinned and moist inside. Simple cooked yellow squash with onions, black-eyed peas or slippery steamed okra make suitable sides. And the daily $4.99 lunch special, which comes with a choice two veggies, corn bread, tea or soda and dessert is surely one the best meat-and-two deals around. Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 4-8 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

Co'm Dunwoody Vietnamese Grill Fusion

5486 Chamblee Dunwoody Road (in Shops of Dunwoody), Dunwoody. 770-512-7410.
www.comgrill.com

At Co'm Vietnamese Grill Fusion, the menu is "65 percent different" from his original Co'm at Buford Highway and Clairmont Road, Duc Tran says. The kitchen draws inspiration from various cultures. Flan with a glass of Vietnamese coffee, anyone? Thankfully, the goi salad remains a commonality — thin slivers of mango, papaya and Fuji apple mingle with other ingredients, including twisted fried onions, herbs and Vietnamese pickle. The menu encourages diners to jack it up with meat or seafood. Lunch 11:30-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; dinner 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Don Hugo Mexican Cuisine

1195 Scenic Highway, Suite C-3, Lawrenceville. 678-512-0004.

It's real-deal Mexican inside this Lawrenceville eatery; no No. 11 here. And the servers at Don Hugo drive the point home by rolling a guacamole cart tableside. They muddle ingredients and serve it on the spot. We brush a homemade chip through the guac and get lost somewhere in south-of-the-border bliss. It's all about the details at Don Hugo. Mexican sodas, including fruit-flavored Jarritos, line the counter. Even the Coke and Pepsi are imported. Other touches separate this restaurant from the rest. Fajitas are dizzyingly good. Homemade tortilla soup features corn chips covered in stringy cheese basking in a slightly rich tomato base. And we're still raving over the camarones a la diabla — red peppery garlic sauce revs up a bundle of jumbo shrimp. It's not a question of going back to Don Hugo, it's a question of when. This refuge from Americanized Mexican food rises to the top with that guacamole cart leading the way. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Fina Italian Bistro

3823 Main St., College Park. 404-767-9292.
finatlanta.com

From the street, Fina Italian Bistro appears the epitome of a neighborhood Italian red-sauce joint, with a pair of cafe tables and chalkboard signs out on the sidewalk. Inside, the feel is bistro-style cozy and romantic. There are no big surprises on the Italian-American menu, which leans heavily toward pasta favorites and includes thin-crust pizza and sandwiches at lunch. And that's mostly a good thing. Especially since most entrees are less than $15. 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays; 5-10 p.m. Saturdays. $$

— Bob Townsend

Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries

1253 Caroline St. N.E. (in Edgewood retail district), Atlanta. 404-688-6474.
www.fiveguys.com

The draw at Five Guys is higher-quality, never-frozen ingredients and a limited number of made-to-order menu items. And that not-so-fast-food recipe is bringing in customers who don't mind waiting longer to trade up for a burger that's better than the usual drive-though fare. Though all the burgers are cooked to well-done, the big, fat double is juicy and flavorful. For smaller appetites, there's a single-patty "Little Hamburger." Regardless of the size or addition of cheese or bacon, there are more than a dozen free toppings that can be piled on. For many, though, the real reason to go is the fresh-cut, "boardwalk-style" fries, which are brown-skinned, soft and slightly sweet, with loads of potato taste. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. $

— Bob Townsend

From Havana to U

6300 Highway 9 N., Alpharetta. 770-475-7344.
www.fromhavanatou.com

At From Havana to U, the surprises just keep coming. From appetizers like calamari to butterfly shrimp, co-owner Rafael Perez and company rely heavily on the fryer. And that's no complaint. A slightly sweet and very crunchy exterior surrounds incredibly moist chicken wings. Luscious plantain nuggets gush from their crispy shells. The restaurant has gourmet sensibilities without the attitude, and the result is charming. Sure, you can find succulent shrimp caught in a web of vegetables, basking in a rich pool of creole sauce. But the kitchen has no problem keeping kitschy crinkle-cut fries on the menu, too. Occasional specials include paella; the skillet overflows with lobster, shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, fish, chicken and pork over yellow rice. Cap things off with flan, a divinely creamy custard in an intoxicating pool of cinnamon-flavored maple syrup. Raise a glass of beer or wine, or try some carbonated Cuban-style sweetness. Cans of Materva yerba mate soda and Jupina pineapple soda chill in a cooler behind the counter. Chalk up another surprise. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; noon-6 p.m. Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Gasthaus Le Cafe

310 Atlanta Road, Cumming. 770-844-7244.

The experience is traditional German, featuring bratwurst, beer, sauerkraut and gulasch soup. Never mind it's inside an old house in Cumming. Austrian-trained chef Reinhold Weger bought the place from its original owners. For the most part, he stuck with the original recipes but added some personal touches: more lunchtime sandwiches, eggplant Parmesan at dinner and a daily offering of rouladen, to name a few. And don't miss the desserts. Weger's son owns Cake Shoppe in Roswell and provides most of the sweets. Out back, Gasthaus has an intimate biergarten. Beers are sold in either an individual glass or stein, a larger friendship glass for four, a pitcher, or a boot for eight. Selections include Weihenstephan, Dortmunder and Reissdorf. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Huong Giang

4300 Buford Highway, Atlanta. 404-929-9838.

Spacious and surprisingly well-appointed, Huong Giang anchors a Vietnamese-themed strip center just north of Plaza Fiesta on Buford Highway. And the cooking, with many tantalizing regional dishes from central Vietnam, makes this the kind of restaurant that's a pleasure to explore with a group or over repeated visits. Something like a Vietnamese tamale, Banh Bot Loc Goi is a soft tapioca-flour tube with shrimp and pork paste, steamed in banana leaves. Big fun for two or more, Bo Ne is marinated, thinly sliced steak you cook on a tabletop gas stove. Hot pots can be ordered with meat or seafood. And for the less adventurous, there are lots of noodle and rice dishes, as well as salads and spring rolls. 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Thursdays. $$

— Bob Townsend

Milton's Cuisine & Cocktails

780 Mayfield Road, Alpharetta. 770-817-0161.
www.miltons-atl.com

Milton's Cuisine & Cocktails has the neo-retro feel of a home that's been lovingly restored with modern touches added but the historic charm preserved. The menu, like a charming Southern gent who wears a suit with cowboy boots, says, "Cheers, y'all." Dishes exhibit a sure and harmonious blend of seasoning, texture and temperature without extraneous razzle-dazzle. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 5-11 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$$

— Jennifer Brett

Paizanos Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria

7 Jones St., Norcross. 770-300-0250.
www.paizanos.com

Dim lighting, mellow music, warm hardwoods and Italian delicacies are just right for a date night. But its casual groove makes customers in jeans and T-shirts feel at home while tackling a pizza or lunchtime sandwich. Check out the antipasto platter for starters: layers of prosciutto, salami and cappicola decorated with grilled zucchini, kalamata olives and roasted red peppers. Other apps are either high-brow (Prince Edward Island mussels) or low (cheese fries with brown gravy). Entrees include baked ziti and the popular chicken Francese, plus More 14 different specialty pizzas, all with New York-style monikers. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Dinner: 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 4:30-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. $$-$$$

— Jon Waterhouse

Picasso Cafe Wine Bar

Dim lighting, glistening hardwoods and abstract paintings: This place could easily fill Midtown Atlanta real estate. Yet it lacks pretense in both service and selection. Menu items range from deep-fried Brie with berry compote, to shrimp and scallop linguine, to a burger and fries. Bartenders serve a variety of wines and cocktails at the full bar, including pomegranate and caramel coffee martinis. The dessert list boasts crème brûlée, bread and butter pudding and other temptations. The flourless chocolate Bailey torte is sweet nirvana. Personable service, smart presentation and smarter food make Picasso worth a taste. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Redfish, a Creole Bistro

687 Memorial Drive S.E., Atlanta. 404-475-1200.
www.redfishcreole"

The menu messes around with Louisiana-flavored cooking. But the best things about this Cabbagetown neighborhood bar/restaurant are the laid-back, sort of kooky atmosphere and the simplest of dishes. Entrees are jazzed-up versions of French-infuenced creole and Cajun fare. Crawfish étouffée adds shrimp and crab to a spicy brown roux. Shrimp and grits are bammed by balsamic onions and andouille. Margret duck breast is lacquered with a sweet honey glaze and served over blue cheese grits. But the easiest meal to like is a crunchy-skinned, cast-iron-skillet-fried chicken breast that comes with creamy horseradish-spiked mashed potatoes and good and basic collard greens. 5-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Bob Townsend

Sakura Japanese Sushi Bar

4880 Roswell Road, Marietta. 770-565-6369.

Kudos to brothers Sandy Bazar and Tim Wijaya, who recently took over this intimate sushi spot. Bazar handles table service while Wijaya works behind the bar. Sushi addicts might want to bypass the dining rooms and head straight to the L-shaped bar for one of the many fanciful rolls. Don't miss the baked lobster and mango tempura. It's a starter that's entree worthy. Those who want to skip seafood altogether can try the wafu steak, fried pork or ever-popular chicken teriyaki. Lunch specials offer a variety of combinations at reasonable prices. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-9:30 p.m. Sundays. $$$

— Jon Waterhouse

Slope's BBQ of Sandy Springs

200 Johnson Ferry Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-252-3220.
www.slopesbbq.com

Like its four other locations, Slope's BBQ in Sandy Springs doesn't concern itself with anything more than barbecue basics: ribs, chicken, chopped meats, sandwiches and veggies make up the menu. The ribs are thick, pink and smoky, and the chicken quarter is ample. Sides include creamy potato salad, finely minced coleslaw and ham-laced green beans. Banana pudding makes a smooth and satisfying finish. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays. $$

— Jon Waterhouse

Tam's Backstage

101 School St., Cumming. 678-455-8310.
tamsbackstage.com

Located on the lower level of the circa-1923 Cumming Public School, a charming red brick building that's now home to the local historical society and the Cumming Playhouse, the restaurant's dramatic upstairs neighbor has inspired Tam's decor and menu. The interior — exposed brick and ductwork, plus murals of performers — is gorgeous. The menu features lots of seafood and fabulous tiramisu is the featured dessert. Lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 4-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 4-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$

— Jennifer Brett

Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)