NEW OWNER MARIA VAZQUEZ reopened Kalamata Greek Restaurant in March, changing the name to Messina's Mediterranean Cuisine. The new name ? an idea from friends after they vacationed in Greece and Italy ? refers to the Strait of Messina, which separates the island of Sicily from Italy. She also changed the menu to feature the traditional gyros, moussaka and Greek salads as well as pizzas and an assortment of oven-baked casseroles (available in half portions), some with meatballs, Italian sausage and eggplant. The result is delicious.

TO START THE SHOW: The saganaki is not only a tasty starter but a fun way to kick off the meal. Two squares of kasseri cheese are doused with brandy and set on fire in front of diners. Sprinkled with lemon juice, the cheese — golden brown on the outside and melted on the inside — comes with slices of a buttery, garlic toasted hoagie roll. The bread adds a bit too much to the dish's saltiness — it would be better with plain French bread or even slices of pita, which accompanies some entrees and is served with a hummus appetizer. The slices are warm, light and wonderful enough to be served with everything.

LAYERS OF FLAVOR: The Greek salad is colorful and crisp, with cucumbers, kalamata olives, tomatoes, onions and peppers. The spinach pie appetizer has two pies wrapped like a burrito — spinach, onion and feta filling the shell. It was easier to eat than the typical spinach pie, with layers of thin phyllo that are sometimes hard to cut through if overcooked. The mixed grill showcases the best of the best — a grilled chicken fillet that's so tender it almost falls apart, souvlaki (pork tenderloin) and a juicy lamb chop cooked exactly to our specifications. The peeled, boiled potatoes that accompany the dish and other entrees are a little too lemony. But they were much better when we dipped them in the marinara sauce used in the vegetarian casserole, which includes fresh diced squash, zucchini, onions and mushrooms covered with mozzarella cheese and baked. Messina's combo pizza has a perfect blend of feta cheese, ground beef, sausage, pepperoni, onions, mushrooms and green peppers on a thin, crispy crust baked to golden brown.

NICK ARROYO/AJC (ENLARGE)
Boy, is this stuff good: The warm galaktoboureko is a layer of custard wrapped in phyllo and baked, then drizzled with honey.
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IT'S GREEK TO ME: The generous portions of baklava and galaktoboureko are a must. The warm galaktoboureko — a layer of custard wrapped in phyllo and baked, then drizzled with honey — was smooth and light. The baklava wasn't overloaded with phyllo, either, allowing us to enjoy the nuts, honey and spices.
THE SETTING: The earthy décor includes terra cotta and yellow paint on the walls and a bricklike floor. A bottle of wine is the centerpiece on the plain tables, which could be dressed up with something as simple as white butcher paper or a tablecloth.