MARLOW'S TAVERN in Vinings is the sort of place where most bar tabs are bigger than food bills. And that's not to say the hearty blend of pub grub and bistro fare isn't better than many so-called "destination" restaurants. But if your idea of meal time is quiet time, the raucous after-dark vibe may be a bit much.

NEIGHBORHOOD STRIP: Situated in a new strip center on Cumberland Parkway, Marlow's is the creation of Tom DiGiorgio and John Metz, owners of Hi Life Kitchen and Cocktails in Norcross and Aqua Blue in Roswell. They opened their first Marlow's Tavern in Alpharetta last November. The concept is a cozy neighborhood saloon with a contemporary twist. There's a semi-open kitchen, a spacious bar area that's ground zero for the lively 25-35 singles scene, and cushy booths for settling in with someone special. Framed black-and-white photos and flat-screen TVs complete the old-meets-new look inside. But the covered outdoor bar and patio, where there's live music seven nights a week, is the place everybody wants to be when it's warm.

RICH ADDICKS/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
The Cowboy rib-eye is a thick, juicy bone-in cut that comes with crispy, hand-cut fries.
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GASTRO PUB: Marlow's features classic American bar food with a continental flair that pushes it toward the realm of the "gastro pub." That means the likes of hummus alongside hot wings and a grilled cheeseburger alongside a roasted lamb wrap with feta. We really liked the Firecracker shrimp: a generous portion of tailless treats lightly fried in a spicy tempura batter and served in a pretty paper cone with a side of rémouladelike dipping sauce. We also enjoyed the Cowboy rib-eye, a thick, juicy bone-in cut that comes nicely Frenched and plated, topped with crispy hand-cut fries and a ramekin of decadent brandy peppercorn sauce. Other entrees include garlic herb chicken with penne pasta and grilled tuna and salmon. On a recent night, the bargain-priced special ($12.95) was pan-sautéed trout filets with pineapple sauce, and spinach and new potatoes on the side.

DRINK ON: Predictably, Marlow's mixes lots of sweet and fruity specialty cocktails, including the signature pomegranate martini (a sort of antioxidant take on the cosmo) and two kinds of chocolatinis. Local microbrews Red Brick Ale and Sweetwater 420 are represented on the long, but not that exciting, beer list. And red and white wines are divided into four tiers: $5-$11 per glass and $20-$44 per bottle. There's also a selection of premium wines available by the half bottle ($28-$48).

NEXT TIME: We didn't save room, but the chocolate banana bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce sounds tempting. The shrimp and crab "nacho" plate, made with rock shrimp, jack cheese and fresh jalapeño peppers, seems like a hit starter. And Serious steak and eggs, pan-seared tenderloin with three fried eggs and béarnaise sauce, could be a substantial way to start or end the day.

HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturdays; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Sundays
PRICES: Appetizers, soups and salads $4-$9; sandwiches $7-11; entrees $13-$20; desserts $4.50; sides $3
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards except Discover
RESERVATIONS: No
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Firecracker shrimp, Cowboy rib-eye
CHILDREN: Kids' menu, but after 9 p.m. probably suitable for adults only
PARKING: On site
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
NOISE LEVEL: Loud and louder
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A happening suburban saloon with reasonably priced drinks and a solid menu.