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LAS PALMERAS may be the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. Located on a Midtown residential street, in a hard-to-spot storefront that also houses a quirky bodega, this friendly, budget Cuban spot offers a lot of bang for the buck.

HAVANA DAYDREAMS: The front patio is a pleasant place for a meal on a nice day. At night, candles on the tables create a romantic glow. Inside, the look is understated and charming, in a mom-and-pop sort of way. Two small dining rooms are decorated with photos of Cuban scenes. Tables are simple laminate; walls pale and soothing. Service is beyond quick and snappy. And at most times, a mix of couples, small groups and families all enjoy the convivial vibe. There's also a list of beer and value-priced Spanish wines.

T. LEVETTE BAGWELL/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Las Palmeras' no-fuss Cuban menu includes roast pork with onion lemon sauce (foreground) and boliche, an eye of round stuffed with sausage (back).
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CUBAN COOKING: Owner and Cuba native Felipe Alvarez opened Las Palmeras nearly 13 years ago. Since then, his restaurant has become beloved as a hidden gem with one of the best home-style Cuban menus in Atlanta. It features tasty and authentic renderings of all the classics, including: empanadas, Cuban sandwiches, black beans and fried plantains. But some of the lesser-known Cuban delicacies, especially the roasted meats, are even better.

Masitas de puerco are perfectly fork-tender chunks of pork in a bright lemon sauce. Boliche, roasted eye of round stuffed with sausage, is equally tender and garlicky good. Deeply marinated, brown-skinned, rotisserie chicken is a recurring menu special that regulars crave. Pisto manchego — scrambled eggs with shrimp, ham, sausage and potatoes — makes a terrific midday or late meal. And for dessert, look for mango pie — a smooth and refreshing variation on Key Lime pie, made with mango puree in a graham cracker crust. Or try the traditional guava shells filled with cream cheese.

GUAYABERA COOL: The adjacent store makes a fun stop before or after a meal. There you'll find beer, sodas and juices as well as various Cuban spices and foodstuffs. There are also terra cotta dishes and knickknacks, and a huge rack of Cuban guayabera shirts, in case you want to look really cool the next time you dine at Las Palmeras.

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5:30-9:45 p.m. Wednesdays-Fridays; noon-9:45 p.m. Saturdays
PRICES: Appetizers, salads and soups $3-$4; sandwiches $6-$7; lunch specials $8; dinner entrees $10-$13; desserts $3-$3.50
CREDIT CARDS: American Express, Visa, MasterCard
RESERVATIONS: For large parties
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Masitas de puerco, boliche, rotisserie chicken, mango pie
CHILDREN: Caters to all ages
PARKING: Limited street parking
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Smoking on patio only
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A hidden gem of home-style Cuban