IF I WERE forced to name my all-time favorite barbecue place it would probably be the Salt Lick in Driftwood, Texas. On a rustic ranch in the Hill Country, 20 miles from Austin, it has some of the best brisket, ribs and sausage I've ever tasted.

Though adapted to Georgia tastebuds, the meats from Fox Bros. BBQ caterers in Atlanta are redolent of the intensely smoky-spicy flavors found at the Salt Lick. In addition to ordering from their catering menu (404-414-7095; www.foxbrosbbq.com), you can now find the Fox brisket, ribs and pulled pork served after 5 p.m. on Wednesdays and after noon on Saturdays and Sundays at Smith's Olde Bar.

Elissa Eubanks/Staff (ENLARGE)
Fox Bros., a blend of South and Southwest, serves barbecue classics such as ribs and fries, plus sides ranging from stewed green beans to mac-n-cheese.
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ROCK AND POOL: Upstairs at Smith's is best known as one of Atlanta's most intimate live music venues, while the downstairs bar, dining room and pool hall are popular neighborhood hangouts. The kitchen is open late and turns out decent bar food, including wings, burgers and deli sandwiches. Two things to know before you go, though: parking is limited in the immediate area, and Smith's is a 21-and-over bar, which means smoking is pretty much permitted everywhere.

TEXAS SMOKE: The two Fox brothers hail from Fort Worth, Texas. And Jonathan Fox says that's where his style of rubs and smoking originate. But he quickly adds that his pulled pork and hybrid sauce owe as much to the South as the Southwest. Fox's pork sandwich is available seven days a week at Smith's. He smokes pork butts over hardwood for up to 12 hours and the rub develops a thick, spicy char at the edges. Whether on a plate or a burger bun, the meat is served in meaty strands, and the sauce — a sweet-and-heat combo of tomato, vinegar and pepper — is a perfectly piquant accompaniment.

BRISKET AND RIBS: The brisket is the thing folks come looking for on Wednesday nights, and it's easy to see why. Fox turns a lowly slab of beef into a thing of beauty. The long, thick slices are fork-tender inside, ringed by a reddish glow and tasty black char. The smoke-blackened baby back ribs have a slightly sweet cured taste that calls to mind country bacon.

SIDE SHOW: Pork, brisket and ribs come in single or combo plates with one or two sides, which include items from Smith's regular menu. Fox's ultra creamy mac-n-cheese, made with pasta shells, is a must have. Other sides can be hit and miss. But sometimes items from the catering menu show up, including stewed green beans and sweet potatoes. Crunchy tater tots always make a fun side, especially for sopping up some sauce.