NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH
The Depot904 Memorial Drive, Glenwood Park, 404-577-1904
For accessAtlanta
Published on: 04/03/2008
THE DEPOT on Memorial Drive in Reynoldstown is the latest venture from Nightcap Food & Spirits, the bar and restaurant group that owns Vickery's, Highland Tap and Fontaine's. Not surprisingly, it takes a little something from each of those concepts — serving up pub grub, steak, freshly shucked oysters, and New Orleans-style dishes, along with a heavy bar scene.
REYNOLDSTOWN STATION: Clearly, the renovation of the early 1900s Atlanta & West Point Railroad freight depot was a major undertaking. Located on the Beltline, close to Cabbagetown, Glenwood Park and East Atlanta, the long brick building with the red tile roof had been sitting empty for some 50 years. But the Nightcap group did an excellent job of updating the structure, while retaining most of the original architectural details. In order to keep the main space intact, they constructed a new kitchen as a separate addition on the back. Inside, the brick walls are accented with dark wood around the bar and in a series of booths. Large, Gothic-style lights and a revolving door add interest. And a clever touch — railroad track rails serve as footrests. The inviting, double bar area has windows that open to the outside, where there are seats on the deck and at tables on the lower patio area.
Becky Stein/special | |||
Becky Stein/special | |||
| The Depot (above), a renovated railroad freight depot from the early 1900s, serves the Train Wreck Burger (top) and other pub grub, along with steaks, New Orleans-style dishes and appetizers. | |||
|
BURGERS AND BEYOND: The menu is still in transition, but burgers and sandwiches are a good bet. And they can all be had with really good chips, made from razor-thin slices of sweet and Yukon Gold potatoes, quick-fried to a crispy crunch. The hefty Train Wreck Burger is piled with grilled onions, sauteed mushrooms, bacon, pepper jack cheese and a fried egg. On the same track to excess, the Streamliner is a grilled foot-long hot dog loaded with kraut, caramelized onions and chili. So far, starters are hit or miss. Fried crawfish tails, served with spicy chili glaze in a cocktail glass, are both attractive and tasty. And a recent special shrimp ceviche was brightened by a melange of chili and thinly sliced oranges. But fried green tomatoes topped with smoked Gouda, tomato compote and arugula is too much of too many good things. Ditto some of the grilled pizzas, which tend to feature ordinary toppings, such as grilled chicken, onions and cheddar, in odd combinations. Entrees run from comfort stuff like fried chicken with mashed potatoes to huevos rancheros, with tasso ham, red chili and guacamole in a crisp tortilla bowl.
DRINK ON: While the draft beer list could use a few more unusual selections, it features local favorites Redbrick Blonde, Sweetwater 420 and Terrapin Rye. The bottled list has more than 50 offerings, including high gravity import and craft beer treats, such as Chimay, Duvel and Victory Golden Monkey and Storm King Stout. There's also at least 50 wines by the glass or bottle. And classic martinis are thoughtfully served up with iced sidecar in reserve.
HOURS: 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.- 2 a.m. Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays (kitchen open 11 a.m. -midnight Sundays-Saturdays)
CREDIT CARDS: All major
PRICES: Appetizers, soups and salads, $3.50-$10; sandwiches and burgers, $8-$11; entrees, $12-$16.50; sides, $3.50
RESERVATIONS: For large parties
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Burgers, potato chips, fried crawfish tails
PARKING: On-site parking
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: On the patio and after 10 p.m. indoors.
NOISE LEVEL: Moderate to loud
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A beautifully restored train depot makes for a lively variety of indoor and outdoor settings for drinks and some food.


MOST POPULAR STORIES