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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

Zaria
4300 Paces Ferry Road, Vinings, 770-436-6004


For the Journal-Constitution
Published on: 07/13/2006

Jerry Couvaras' knowledge of Slavic mythology was his muse when it came time to name his company's latest venture: Zaria.

"It's the name of the goddess of natural beauty, who is associated with new beginnings," said Couvaras, president of Atlanta Bread Co. "And in Russian, it means sunrise."

Bob Andres/Staff
Braised lamb ribs in honey ginger glaze at Zaria.
 
Bob Andres/Staff
Entrees include pecan-crusted chicken.
 
Bob Andres/Staff
Diver scallops and shrimp make up one of the entrées. More Zaria sites are planned in metro Atlanta.
 
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Signature items: Chocolate chip pancakes; pecan-crusted chicken; crab cakes
Dinner entrees: $10-$26
Hours: 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays; 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays
Reservations: Call ahead seating
Credit cards: Yes
Web site: www.zariacafe.com

The significance worked well for the new restaurant concept, which recently debuted in Vinings. The old Atlanta Bread Co. space on the edge of the Vinings Jubilee shopping center was reworked into the first of more than a dozen Zarias planned for metro Atlanta.

The biggest difference diners will discover between Atlanta Bread Co. and Zaria is the presence of a full-service wait staff at the new eatery. Zaria also offers a wine and beer list, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and has a takeout counter for bakery items and coffees for those on the go. Wireless Internet access enables diners who want to relax at a table on the patio or porch to keep up with work in between bites.

The extensive morning menu offers a wide range of options, from the popular whole wheat chocolate chip pancakes and steak Benedict to french toast bananas foster. In between are yogurt parfaits, omelets, frittatas with chiles, and crepes rolled around peaches or Nutella and strawberries.

At 11 a.m., lunch service begins with Italian sandwiches and paninis. Crab bisque and chicken tortilla soups are available daily. Salads may be topped with cilantro lime salmon, chicken, blackened shrimp or grilled steak.

The evening offerings include crab cakes; pecan-crusted chicken; scallops and shrimp with risotto; lamb chops; and a 12-ounce New York strip. Select from sides of fettuccini, basmati rice, asparagus risotto, sautéed spinach, green beans and potatoes. Sandwiches, soups and salads and a nightly special are also available.

Those who remember Atlanta Bread Co.'s sweets selection won't be disappointed in Zaria. The new dessert lineup is even more tempting, with a dark chocolate mousse tower, bread pudding, fruit tarts, tiramisu and parfaits.

Fans of Atlanta Bread need not panic about that company's future, though. Couvaras said there are no plans to change other locations into Zarias.

"We had the Vinings location for about 10 years, and in that time, the demographics of the area have changed so much," he said. "We were going to remodel anyway and thought this would be a great location for the new concept. But Atlanta Bread is still growing by leaps and bounds, and we have no intention of replacing them."

• MORE 'CUE comes to an Alpharetta neighborhood. Shane's Rib Shack recently opened at 4180 Old Milton Parkway. Local resident Charlie Feehan is the franchise owner, overseeing the eatery's signature and secret barbecue sauce on ribs, chicken and pork sandwiches. There's also a full menu of sides, including corn on the cob, slaw, baked beans and potato salad, to enjoy on the premises or to go. Shane's is open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. 770-569-1988. www.shanesribshack.com

• NO NEED TO SLAVE over a hot Sunday stove. Head over to Garrison's Broiler and Tap at Perimeter Mall, where a new Sunday brunch buffet is now served. From 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., diners can feast on omelets cooked to order, an array of salads and cheeses, breakfast breads and entrees such as grilled salmon or pasta. Prices are $17.95 for adults and $7.95 for children (children 4 and younger eat free). Garrison's is at 4400 Ashford Dunwoody Road. 770-350-0134. www.garrisonsatlanta.com/perimeter.

•SUBMIT YOUR RESTAURANT: If you're the owner of a restaurant, bar or club on the Northside, the AJC wants to make sure your establishment is included in our free online and print database. Go online to www.accessatlanta.com/submit to add your business or suggest updates to an existing listing. To search our listings, go to www.accessatlanta.com/restaurants.

•Have a question or a comment about a Northside restaurant? Call 678-574-6461, or e-mail hmcauley

@mindspring.com.

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