Mill Street in Marietta is shaping up as a small stretch of Restaurant Row.

On the end nearest the railroad tracks is Thaicoon and around the corner is Cafe Crepe. Closer to the square is the Traveling Fare caterers. And tucked in between is the newcomer, Blu Greek Taverna.

Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
The Garides, with mixed baby greens, cherry tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese and charbroiled jumbo shrimp.
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
Blu Greek Taverna offers 'the same as what you'd find in Athens,' says owner Jean-Louis Constantinides.
Phil Skinner/AJC STAFF (ENLARGE)
The Gyro Salata brings together gyro slices, kashkavalli cheese, chopped fresh romaine lettuce, diced tomatoes and dill.
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Find the restaurant

The former art gallery has been transformed into a restaurant you'd expect to find sitting next to the deep blue Mediterranean. Instead, it's across from the Cool Beans coffee shop and the rumbling CSX trains. But no matter — step beyond the white stucco and blue-shuttered exterior, sit down to a plate of feta and olives, grilled octopus or stuffed grape leaves and forget this is Marietta.

HOW IT HAPPENED

Owner Jean-Louis Constantinides came up with the concept because he lives close to the square. "I wanted an original Greek place to eat, so I came up with this taverna," he said. "It's the same as what you'd find in Athens."

Constantinides oversaw a complete renovation of the former retail space that was housed in an antebellum cotton warehouse. It's now a 120-seat restaurant with stunning shades of blue and bright whites. The ocean color jumps out from the ceiling in the main dining room, from the blue table tops and from the giant mural of the sea that covers a back wall. The hardwood floors and exposed brick walls are part of what's left from the original space.

IT'S IMPORTED

Once the look was right, Constantinides began importing food to keep the menu authentic. "Everything is brought in, from the cheeses to the olive oils," he said.

The menu introduces diners to Greek dishes and explains them in parenthesized English, so you can order the eggplant spread instead of the melitzanosalata. Start off with hand-rolled beef meatballs (keftedes) or halloumi, a Cyprian goat cheese that's flambéed in vodka at your tableside. The traditional spanakopita is layers of pastry dough stuffed with feta and spinach. The smelts are lightly battered and fried in sunflower oil.

Can't decide on one dip? Go for a sampler platter of all four: caviar and potato; eggplant; yogurt and cucumber; and garbanzo bean with beef, pine nuts and olive oil.

The souvlakia (kebobs) are skewered with vegetables, chicken, beef tenderloin and lamb. Beef or veggie moussaka and lamb stew are other traditional dishes.

But if you're just hankering for a steak, go for the 16-ounce grilled T-bone and rib eye, or the marinated lamb chops. Swordfish, chicken, salmon, prawns and snapper are also grilled and served with veggies and lemon potatoes. Round out the meal with sides of fries, green beans, orzo and pilaf.

WHAT'S NEXT

Constantinides is stocking a basement wine cellar with about 1,600 bottles. But you'll have to wait for the liquor license to be approved before you can pop a cork.

He's also planning on turning the space next door into a lounge and bar that will open before the holidays.