GARDEN PRODUCE & Country Store in Stone Mountain is a quirky place in the best possible sense. You might never guess that inside this rickety wooden building, with the rusty old gas pumps out front, you'll find some of the most scrumptious barbecue and home-style veggies around. Wayne Germon smokes chicken, pork, ribs and brisket in a wood-fired pit behind the store. And he and his partner, Patty Tennis, grow tomatoes, okra, peppers and other produce in the garden next door, using the bounty for side dishes and homemade pickles and hot sauce.

ROADSIDE ATTRACTION: Both quaint and cool in a ramshackle sort of way, the Country Store is a special bit of Americana — an off-the-beaten-path roadside attraction with modern flair. On the covered front porch, you find tables set with condiments, a bubbling fountain on the wall, and blues music drifting from speakers on the ceiling. Inside, there are a few more tables. And you might find Tennis seated at one, shelling peas, while Germon works in the open kitchen, frying okra and onion rings or boxing up to-go orders. You place your order at the tall counter, where you can choose from a variety of meats and sides. But be sure to check out the country fair-style canned goods stacked on the store shelves.

Becky Stein/Special (ENLARGE)
Your plate, too, may get lost underneath heaping helpings of sesame lemon chicken, collards, crowder peas and yellow squash.
MOST POPULAR STORIES Gospel singer Dottie Rambo dies in tour bus wreck in Mo. Brushes with death standard for 'Deadliest Catch' star David Archuleta's dad loses 'American Idol' backstage pass Walters: Jones going through 'difficult time' Eagles, others give guitar collectors 'feast for the eyes'
EMAIL THIS PRINT THIS MOST POPULAR
Find the restaurant

SMOKY NIRVANA: The menu is surprisingly large, with everything from chicken wings and fried fish and shrimp to sandwiches and quesadillas. But the barbecue is a chowhound's nirvana. And the portions are huge. Bearded, and big and burly as a lumberjack, Germon cuts down trees as a side job. Some of the wood winds up in the pile next to his barbecue shack. Right now, he favors wild cherry, and its mildly fruity smoke is perfect for flavoring his low-and-slow cooked country ribs — which are as meaty and juicy as ham, and come with a rich, peppery red sauce on the side. Beef brisket is also nicely perfumed by the smoke. It's served thinly sliced in a huge mound with barbecue sauce or creamy horseradish, but Germon's 9-11 hot sauce gives it a good kick. There's also pulled pork or a smoked half chicken. All the dinners come with three sides.

GARDEN FRESH: As you might expect, the sides are garden-fresh and simple. Corn is buttery skillet-cooked kernels, dotted with bits of pepper. Collards are leafy green, glistening in a mild liquor. Squash casserole is an unfussy blend of yellow squash, onions and cheddar cheese, while coarsely chopped slaw is crispy and creamy. Homemade desserts include fudgey chocolate brownies and daily specials might include cookies, bread pudding or pound cake.