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You may know the name Atkins Park from the Virginia-Highland area of Atlanta, where it's been a fixture on the local dining scene for years. Or you may be familiar with its sister tavern in Smyrna, with the same neighborhood pub atmosphere. But don't head to the new Atkins Park in Cumming expecting the same old thing.

"We have always been known as a bar with good food, but in Cumming, we are clearly a good restaurant with a bar," said owner Warren Bruno. "There is definitely more food here and much more wine. We cater to an older clientele that goes for comfort."

Courtesy of Atkins Park Restaurants (ENLARGE)
A popular entree is the Boursin filet, an 8-ounce cut of beef stuffed with Boursin cheese and topped with a roasted shallot demi-glacé.
Courtesy of Atkins Park Restaurants (ENLARGE)
The new Atkins Park in Cumming is more of a restaurant than its midtown branch. Dark woods and high booths give it a clublike feel.
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Some of those clients tell Bruno they remember hanging at Atkins Park 20 years ago. But now their tastes have grown up, and they're more interested in a chef-driven menu and attentive service.

"Our servers are experienced and know they have guests who want to be taken care of," said Bruno.

The Forsyth space shares some of the look of the other taverns "but it's a little higher end, with darker woods and a clubbier feel," said Bruno. "We have a private dining room, three fireplaces and a mantel and columns we brought in from the Aunt Charley's [bar and restaurant] they tore down in Buckhead. We even have the original picture of Aunt Charley."

Not pub grub

Chef J.J. McFarland, formerly of McKendrick's, creates a seasonal menu with updated favorites. Pick from the 14-ounce peppercorn-crusted Kansas City strip, pork tenderloin over grits, wasabi-crusted salmon with stir-fry veggies, buttermilk-fried chicken, scallops with vegetable risotto, trout stuffed with lump crab, shrimp and mushroom ravioli and filet stuffed with Boursin cheese. Starters include mussels in white wine, cornmeal-fried calamari, blackened tuna with a soy glaze, and crab cakes with mustard aioli.

There's still a smattering of tavern food, with chicken wings, burgers, cheesesteaks, hoagies, club and Reuben sandwiches, but there's also a grilled portobello sandwich, shrimp and crab rolls and a turkey burger for those who want something different.

The lunch menu also includes grilled meatloaf, fish and chips, pizza, shrimp marinara and chopped sirloin. And for those with late-night munchies, the kitchen keeps going until an hour before closing time. A limited menu is planned for New Year's Eve.

From the bar

"We sell more wine here than anywhere else," said Bruno. "Our guests keep the bar very busy."

The selection covers about 30 vintages from the West Coast as well as Italy, Chile and France. More than 20 are available by the glass. And in true tavern fashion, there are also 16 beers on tap and full range of cocktails.

Guests can dine and smoke in the bar area and on the adjacent small patio.