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The unique fare, prices and white tablecloths at Grapes & Hops Bar & Bistro create a first impression that it's a place for well-heeled diners. But, as part-owner and general manager Michelle Schreck points out, it's more about the food and wine than what people wear, considering its location on a road named Hog Mountain. The restaurant offers some inventive dishes – although a few missteps with presentation and service – as it strives to raise the level of dining in Flowery Branch.

Signature standouts

Vino Wong/Staff Photographer (ENLARGE)
Peppercorn crusted Ostrich pan-seared served with blackberry preserves and white truffle oil.
Vino Wong/Staff Photographer (ENLARGE)
Tempura battered eggplant Napolean served with baby greens, goat cheese, sauteed garlic shrimp topped with dijon-herb vinegrette.
Vino Wong/Staff Photographer (ENLARGE)
Fried Calamari Martini served with caramalized bell peppers, roasted garlic and basil cream sauce.
Vino Wong/Staff Photographer (ENLARGE)
Grapes Caesar salad with grated asiago cheese served with creamy garlic whole grain mustard dressing and asiago cheese straw.
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One of the signs that a restaurant has won me over is when I'm still thinking about a particular dish days later. At Grapes & Hops, that's The Grapes Caesar salad. You'll find hearts of romaine and grated asiago cheese tossed with creamy garlic whole grain mustard dressing and halved grapes (which arrived in a semi-circle on the plate, like a sweet smile). It brings a tangy touch to the traditional Caesar. The crab and lobster bisque is another favorite by repeat customers, but be aware that has a kick, thanks to cayenne pepper in the coconut cream broth.

Careful with that calamari

Chef Timmy Lee, who previously worked at the Atlanta Athletic Club, also thinks outside of the box with the tasty calamari appetizer. The idea actually was the result of the restaurant's frequent wine tastings and dinners. For a monthly wine dinner, Schreck wanted to pair the appetizer with a Pinot Grigio, so the chef came up with fried calamari and a basil cream sauce, which to me is much more appealing than the classic marinara. It's currently served as a fried calamari martini, but once it's brought to the table in the long-stemmed glass, that's where the presentation goes awry. Our waitress explained that there have been problems with the glass tipping over as it's passed from one person to another, so she immediately dumps it out onto the plate. Sure, it doesn't change the taste, but it sure ruined the look of the dish. That specific appetizer may be on the menu for only one more week (although some form of calamari will be there), as Schreck notes that the menu will be changing after Mother's Day.

Wine and dine

Grapes & Hops, which is located in the same building as Hometown Spirits near the Gwinnett-Hall county line, serves about 60 wines by the glass. Each menu item offers pairings chosen by Schreck, a wine consultant and educator. It creates a nice dining experience, with the flavors in entrées such as wild game, steaks and seafood embracing the wine pairings. Among the unusual choices that pop up throughout the year: ostrich and alligator. The filet mignon is a tender 8-ounce portion served with a rich demi glaze and burgundy braised wild mushrooms. It's a giant step above your typical meat and potatoes, served with delicious chive mashed potatoes. The swordfish, which Schreck believes will be replaced with possibly halibut or a Chilean sea bass, has an Asian flavor, with stir-fried vegetables. Another current entrée, the grilled pork chop, has a sweet side – apple cornbread dressing – and will likely be leaving the menu for a more summery dish. Our waitress was pleasant enough, but as she took on more tables, she had some snafus, such as forgetting to explain the specials until we asked. To end the meal, we split a dessert – choosing the carrot cake over the crème brulee upon our waitress' suggestion that the portion was bigger for sharing. The cake, which also probably will not be on the menu after the next week, was unimpressive. Next time, we'll each get our own crème brulee, which is made in-house (as well as the bananas foster) and has a different flavor each day.

Specials and setting

Inside, the brick walls and high windows help create the feel of dining in a wine cellar. But it's light and airy instead of dark and cool, with doors leading out to a patio where the dining is a bit more casual and it's OK to wear shorts and flip flops. The patio is a popular area – the only negative is that the scenery is lacking, with not much else to see but cars whizzing by on Hog Mountain Road or pulling into the parking lot. Back inside, the bar serves as a focal point, with a coffered ceiling suspended by wires; there's also a baby grand piano, as the restaurant offers live entertainment inside and outside (if it's nice) on Fridays and Saturdays. Another special of note – Sunday nights, bottles of wine are half price.