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NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH

World Peace Cafe

220 Hammond Drive N.E.. Suite 302, Sandy Springss, 404-256-2100

For the Journal-Constitution

Friday, June 01, 2007

World Peace Cafe, a vegetarian oasis in Sandy Springs, proclaims to operate under a Buddhist philosophy. Maybe the sense of calm I feel upon entering it is my own self-imposed expectation of anticipating a culinary Zen experience.

Or maybe it’s the soothing Asian-tinged soundtrack or the airy, high ceilings. Or perhaps the staff’s even-keeled demeanor puts me at ease. It’s owned by the Rameshori Buddhist Center located on nearby Allen Road, and much of the staff are center volunteers. Just opened in April, World Peace Cafe already has a following. I notice as waiters and waitresses greet customers by name.

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PHIL SKINNER/AJC STAFF

The stellar mushroom stroganoff combines portobello mushrooms, fresh herbs, a rich, brown sauce and organic egg noodles. It’s substantial enough for a carnivore.

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PHIL SKINNER/AJC STAFF

The luscious three-layer chocolate almond cake is so rich it’s hard to believe it’s vegan, but it is. Other desserts are Blissful Banana Pudding, ice cream and cakes available as specials.

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PHIL SKINNER/AJC STAFF

The thick, hearty peace burger, made with organic oats and vegetables, comes with jumbo roasted potato wedges, pickles and tomato. Other sandwiches are accompanied by cucumber soup, when available.

The reason for my well-being doesn’t matter. Because when I take my first bite, it’s instant bliss. Never mind I’m a Southern-fried, barbecue-devouring carnivore with an affinity for Varsity chili dogs and the Ghetto Burger at Ann’s Snack Bar. Every last vegetarian morsel I taste here is absolutely amazing. World Peace Cafe proves that fresh, organic and thoughtful veggie-centric cuisine done right can soothe the savage meat eater.

Lunchtime Zen

Although the pimento cheese omelette and mushroom frittata sound great, we miss breakfast; it ends at 11 a.m. So it’s onto the lunch menu for a sampling of sandwiches, salads, soups and entrees.

While waiting for our food, I poke a straw into my Mock Mint Julep. Fresh mint, lemon and a zap of ginger ale provide a soothing and refreshing prelude to meal time.

The TMB sandwich comes first. Tomato, basil, rosemary mayo and a hunk of mozzarella sit between two slices of whole wheat. A conservative douse of olive oil blends well with the cheese and bread. Add a cup of the cool and creamy cucumber soup that’s on special, and it’s one dynamic duo.

The large, greenish yellow avocado slices light up the Sun Salad. A scattering of sunflower seeds add a touch of crunch as I shovel forkfuls of organic greens. The occasional sweetness of dried cranberries and raisins delights.

Mighty and meatless

But it’s the Peace Burger that eases my meat jones. The thick and hearty patty made of organic oats and veggies sticks to the ribs. And the perfectly executed, jumbo roasted potato wedges can stand starch-to-starch against any french fry I’ve ever chomped.

The weight of a rich, brown sauce binds the stellar mushroom stroganoff. Small portobello ‘shrooms mingle with fresh herbs among a tangled mess of organic egg noodles. So substantial and flavorful, I forget it’s meatless.

Kid-friendly

Moms with kids in tow gather at a nearby table. The kiddie fare’s organic, too. The little ones dab fresh fruit in organic peanut butter and steroid-free yogurt. One tot in particular slathers Peace Burger sticks in ketchup.

If they catch a glimpse, I’m sure they’ll envy my Three Layer Chocolate Almond Cake. So richly divine, it’s easy to suspect that it’s not really vegan. But it is. So I toss away regret, even though the tasty chocolate ganache and crumbled almonds cause involuntary guilt.

I walk away satisfied, but not bloated. Surprisingly, I’m not in siesta mode even though I ordered an extra helping of potatoes with dessert. Instead I’m energized and ready to face the rest of the day. Maybe that’s why Buddha’s always smiling.



Web site: www.worldpeacecafeatlanta.com
• Cuisine: Vegetarian; some vegan
• Hours: 7 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday-Friday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
• Price range: sandwiches $7.50-$9.50; entrees $8.50-$9.50

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